|
xanx
Dec 20, 2003, 9:41 PM
Post #1 of 11
(1232 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 1002
|
i have read a few posts about ice climbing, and am just curious about the grading system e.g. WI1 thru WI7 - what is the differnece? is it difficulty of moves? protectability? stability? what determines the grade for an ice climb?
and what about mixed stuff?
thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
andypro
Dec 20, 2003, 11:38 PM
Post #2 of 11
(1232 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2003
Posts: 1077
|
In reply to: i have read a few posts about ice climbing, and am just curious about the grading system e.g. WI1 thru WI7 - what is the differnece? is it difficulty of moves? protectability? stability? what determines the grade for an ice climb? and what about mixed stuff? thanks!
In short...yes to all of it. WI1 is...well...walking. WI3 things start getting vertical, WI7 is jsut plain ugly...think of everyhitng you coudl possibly NOT want to ever climb if you were sane, you begin to touch WI7.
Mixed is jsut linear grades for mixed climbing. Dont know much about them.
|
|
|
|
|
wedgy
Dec 20, 2003, 11:58 PM
Post #3 of 11
(1232 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 69
|
Predominant features for grading include length of pitch,overall steapness, & the usual characteristics of the route(chandelier, blue plastic,thin plate, overhanging buldges, etc.).
WI1- a frozen steam
WI2- short steep sections(up to 75degrees),good pro& places to rest
WI3- sustained up to 80*,or shorter sections of steeper w/ resting spots, usually good ice,adept at placing pro
WI4- sustained near vertical or shorter sections of vertical w/ rest spots, some technical features (chandeliers etc) ,long spaces between rest spots
WI5- full pitch of near vertical w/ few rest spots, good technique for pro
WI6- full pitch of dead verticle or shorter & nastier (touching pillars)
WI7- full pitch of verticle/overhanging , questionable pro(hanging pillars)
WI8- not claimed yet
M4=5.8
M5=5.9
M6=5.10
M7=5.11
M8=5.11+/5.12
M9=5.12+/5.13
M10=5.13
Of course there are nuances to all , but in a nut shell that's it. Most 5.10 rock climbers can climb WI4- ice the first time out(not including pro). the hard part is working w/ gloves on.
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Dec 21, 2003, 2:01 AM
Post #4 of 11
(1228 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
what's important to remember is that ice is a constantly changing medium. it can exhibit any degree of fluidity or plasticity, and it can do so within a matter of hours. what this means is that a WI3 can be a WI5 on any given day, and a 5 can be a 3.
take the fang, just up the road from me, in vail, colorado; it's graded a 5. and it certainly [i:6f57656c9c]can[/i:6f57656c9c] be on a cold, early-season morning when you're the first one on it and huge chunks are dinner-plating off with every swing of your tools and you're having a difficult time protecting it.
or ... it can be as easy as a 3 on a warm afternoon when the ice is like plastic and every swing of your tools is a winner and it's been so hacked up all you have to do is step your feet into giant pigeonholes.
this morning at lincoln falls, near breckenridge, i led up a brittle, cold, pitch that was severely dinner-plating, and every screw i placed was relative crap. under those conditions i'd give it a 4.
later in the afternoon, after it warmed up nicely and tool-picks were sinking in like a warm knife into butter, i overheard an overweight and not very proficient denver climber (climbing the same pitch) exclaim to his belayer, "oh, that was great! good, solid WI4!" the trouble was, he was on a toprope, it was afternoon, and the ice was sinker. no -- given the conditons, [i:6f57656c9c]his[/i:6f57656c9c] climb was a 3 at best.
in essence, my point is (as someone famous once said), [i:6f57656c9c]"ice climbing grades don't mean sh*t."[/i:6f57656c9c]
|
|
|
|
|
punk
Dec 21, 2003, 2:34 AM
Post #5 of 11
(1232 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
|
In reply to: this morning at lincoln falls, near breckenridge, i led up a brittle, cold, pitch that was severely dinner-plating, and every screw i placed was relative crap. under those conditions i'd give it a 4. later in the afternoon, after it warmed up nicely and tool-picks were sinking in like a warm knife into butter, i overheard an overweight and not very proficient denver climber (climbing the same pitch) exclaim to his belayer, "oh, that was great! good, solid WI4!" the trouble was, he was on a toprope, it was afternoon, and the ice was sinker. no -- given the conditons, his climb was a 3 at best. in essence, my point is (as someone famous once said), "ice climbing grades don't mean sh*t."
ego,
Who the hell cares...I for one an extremely overweight tub o lard gets my sorry fat as$ on ice ONLY in the afternoon on warm day so what…I like to stack the odds in my favor
Let them all do their song and dance as long as they all have good time and leave vanity at home
Who cares lets climb
But I must say AMEN to your closing/point statement
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerocket
Dec 21, 2003, 2:45 AM
Post #6 of 11
(1232 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2001
Posts: 496
|
In reply to: what's important to remember is that ice is a constantly changing medium. it can exhibit any degree of fluidity or plasticity, and it can do so within a matter of hours. what this means is that a WI3 can be a WI5 on any given day, and a 5 can be a 3. take the fang, just up the road from me, in vail, colorado; it's graded a 5. and it certainly can be on a cold, early-season morning when you're the first one on it and huge chunks are dinner-plating off with every swing of your tools and you're having a difficult time protecting it. or ... it can be as easy as a 3 on a warm afternoon when the ice is like plastic and every swing of your tools is a winner and it's been so hacked up all you have to do is step your feet into giant pigeonholes. this morning at lincoln falls, near breckenridge, i led up a brittle, cold, pitch that was severely dinner-plating, and every screw i placed was relative crap. under those conditions i'd give it a 4. later in the afternoon, after it warmed up nicely and tool-picks were sinking in like a warm knife into butter, i overheard an overweight and not very proficient denver climber (climbing the same pitch) exclaim to his belayer, "oh, that was great! good, solid WI4!" the trouble was, he was on a toprope, it was afternoon, and the ice was sinker. no -- given the conditons, his climb was a 3 at best. in essence, my point is (as someone famous once said), "ice climbing grades don't mean sh*t."
dito to what geo said. I have soloed stuff on one day and another day on the same climb I was scared sh*tless of the conditions, used a rope and could not place a single good screw. It all varies with conditions.
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Dec 21, 2003, 3:14 AM
Post #7 of 11
(1228 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
[quote:41403bbc3e="punk"]ego, Who the hell cares...[/quote:41403bbc3e]
neri -- i'm laughing my @ss off at your freudian slip with my name!
besides, i don't think of you as "overweight" ... i prefer to think of you as "sturdy". :wink:
[size=9:41403bbc3e]*it [i:41403bbc3e]was[/i:41403bbc3e] a freudian slip, [i:41403bbc3e]wasn't it[/i:41403bbc3e]?*[/size:41403bbc3e] :roll:
|
|
|
|
|
punk
Dec 21, 2003, 11:12 AM
Post #8 of 11
(1232 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
|
In reply to: *it was a freudian slip, wasn't it?* :roll:
Just seems more appropriate :wink: :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
brutusofwyde
Dec 21, 2003, 2:14 PM
Post #9 of 11
(1232 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
|
In reply to: take the fang, just up the road from me, in vail, colorado; it's graded a 5. and it certainly can be on a cold, early-season morning when you're the first one on it and huge chunks are dinner-plating off with every swing of your tools and you're having a difficult time protecting it.
Geo:
I would love to take the Fang. Trouble is, the one time I was there, there was a line of parties waiting to hop on it, and one of my group had a flight to catch. Couldja PM me when that thing is in?
Brutus
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Dec 21, 2003, 11:22 PM
Post #10 of 11
(1228 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
[quote:7175eaea12="punk"][quote:7175eaea12="mtngeo"]
[size=9:7175eaea12]*it [i:7175eaea12]was[/i:7175eaea12] a freudian slip, [i:7175eaea12]wasn't it[/i:7175eaea12]?*[/size:7175eaea12] :roll:[/quote:7175eaea12]
Just seems more appropriate :wink: :lol:[/quote:7175eaea12]
well, [i:7175eaea12]darn[/i:7175eaea12] ... and right when i was just about to mail off three [i:7175eaea12]channuka ice screws [/i:7175eaea12]to ya'! :lol:
[quote:7175eaea12="brutusofwyde"]I would love to take the Fang. Trouble is, the one time I was there, there was a line of parties waiting to hop on it, and one of my group had a flight to catch. Couldja PM me when that thing is in?[/quote:7175eaea12]
you know ... not only are those vail ice climbs overrated, the scene there is almost always a regular freak-show without a tent. i've seen five parties on the designator at the same time; it was a mess.
but, yeah ... it's almost in. i'll let you know!
|
|
|
|
|
punk
Dec 22, 2003, 2:14 AM
Post #11 of 11
(1232 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
|
In reply to: well, darn ... and right when i was just about to mail off three channuka ice screws to ya'! :lol:
what three??? it is eight one for each day we just take everything to the extreme
|
|
|
|
|
|
