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apollodorus
Apr 1, 2004, 7:31 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
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John Henry (John Shultz, http://www.rockclimbing.com/...e&u=17513]johnhenry] is a philosopher. He said this to me last June:
"A journey of 2900 feet begins with the single slide of the jug."
And, yes, it does.
But, before that single slide of the jug, you need to GET INTO WALL MODE.
Wall Mode is what you do before the Wall.
Wall Mode is what you eat before the Wall.
Wall mode is how well you train before going up the Wall.
Wall Mode is a state of mind.
Wall Mode is how you behave to achieve your goal.
Wall Mode is a single slide of the jug.
Wall Mode is a journey of 2900 feet.
Wall Mode is topping out.
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onelung
Apr 1, 2004, 7:40 AM
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Registered: Dec 8, 2002
Posts: 436
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Agreed...I am 6 wks from full blown wall mode.
I cant put enough weight in my pig when I go for a hike. If I see a TR I jug it for the fun of it. I find myself falling in love my favorite cams, select nuts and them God blessed cam hooks.
I will top out or I will write a incompetance thread when I come back to my house.
I am bill....soon to be seen in the most wonderful place in the world!
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epic_ed
Apr 1, 2004, 7:28 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
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Tis the season...nice post, Tom.
Some words of wisdom posted last year by Russ have kind of stuck with me just about more than anything ele I've ever read about aiding. He posted an answer in response to a guys question about doing the Nose, and while some of the advice was specifically about that route, much of it is applicable for aiding in general. Figured it's worth repeating here. Plus, I'm a pathetic suck up.
In reply to: In reply to: What are the hardest parts of the Nose or big wall in general? Keeping your lid on. Most failures are mental breakdowns. Get hard, suck-it up and keep going. Be able to climb 5.10 fist fast and easy. Take hardly anything. If you bring a ledge you will use it and probably fail. Bring extra headlamp batteries and skip the ledge. It will be hot as hell, so climbing at night might be nice. Fix pitches at the end of the day... no slacking. Get your stations ready to go as soon as the bag leaves.... you get two minutes max to get the F out of there and start cleaning the pitch. No sightseeing in your aiders..... test, and then right to the top... no molly-gagging in each step. Don't stop for lunch... eat at the belay if you must. Remember, days are 24 hours long.... this is a long time to get things done. Way slow??? start earlier.... scared? get some sack..... tired??? too bad.... get going. Hot??? pretend you are at the beach and pop a Jolly Rancher into your gob and don't Bogart the water. Don't get psyched out by looking up at the towering nightmare above.... just hit your daily goals.... like fix to Sickle... blast to El Cap Tower & fix the Texas Flake.... Blast to Camp 5.... Get off by 2pm. Sounds like fun huh? Best of luck! Russ |
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ricardol
Apr 1, 2004, 7:32 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
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tom:
.. nice piece of advice ..
see you at the ditch later this year ..
-- ricardo
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timpanogos
Apr 1, 2004, 7:40 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
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Had wall head since January - gonna get fired
Chad
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