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Off day?????
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amstone


Apr 1, 2004, 2:02 PM
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Off day?????
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The other day we went climbing and I could not get up a 5.3 if there was a Krispy Kreme on the top of it. Last 2 trips out, onsighted 5.9's with ease and worked 5.10s like it was my job.....what's up??? Anyone else experience this? I had taken 2 weeks off before the day I couldn't climb a ladder if I wanted to......


mountainchick82


Apr 1, 2004, 2:21 PM
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Yup...definitely....its very frustrating....

One day I was rockin in the .10's and then I try a few days later and no go. I think the key is getting your body used to climbing multiple days. How many days do you usually climb a week?

I'm usually good because I can only get to the climbing gym once a week or so, but I'm outside on the weekends which gives my body some rest, though by Sunday its a little sketchy.

Who knows.


amstone


Apr 1, 2004, 2:43 PM
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I try to climb in the gym 2 nights a week and go outside on the weekend. Glad to hear I am not the only one!


litleclimberchick


Apr 1, 2004, 10:22 PM
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it happens...


climbhigh2005


Apr 1, 2004, 10:29 PM
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Yeah I know how you feel.. lI climbed 10.Cs last month, well I hadnt climbed in just 1 month, and I couldnt even do the first part of a 10a!! it was humilating, but I just laughed and went on... Also one day I climbed a 5.10a and then couldnt climb a 5.7?!?!?! Hello, sometimes grades are just whack!


jay_climbingchick


Apr 1, 2004, 10:59 PM
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Yah, I get tired fast. I was always told to climb more. But when I can't I Mountain Bike or something like that.


rvega


Apr 2, 2004, 1:25 AM
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I have those every once in a while. The last time I went outdoors I could barely TR a 5.10a climb I had onsited months earlier. Sometimes you just don't have it.

Attitude has so much to do with my climbing. If I'm in a pissy mood I can't climb for crap, or at least I feel like I'm climbing terrible (the two are very different).

Other times however I just can't make the moves. I recently took just one week off (visit the family) and on my first day back I felt as if I hadn't climbed in years. Plus once you get frustrated climbing, you often make more and more mistakes aggrevating the situation.

Some days you suck. And then there are those days where you just look at that 5.11c climb and say...baby that's mine. Then you flash up it like its a 5.4. Wish I had more of those days personally. :P


moabbeth


Apr 2, 2004, 1:44 AM
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Attitude has so much to do with my climbing. If I'm in a pissy mood I can't climb for crap, or at least I feel like I'm climbing terrible (the two are very different).

Yep.

I totally have off and on days. Happens to everyone.

Usually having a good partner can help you get past some of those humps. When you're doubting yourself, cursing yourself, thinking you suck...they can be the voice of reason that shakes out the negative voice in your head and gets the positive one going.


timstich


Apr 2, 2004, 2:24 AM
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I like the list of excuses for off days in Steve Dieckhoff's "Serious Play."

The holds were greasy.
This rock is chossy and needs cleaning.
I haven't warmed up properly.
I brought the wrong gear for the climb.
I'm not a good enough climber today.


moabbeth


Apr 2, 2004, 2:43 AM
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In reply to:
I like the list of excuses for off days in Steve Dieckhoff's "Serious Play."

The holds were greasy.
This rock is chossy and needs cleaning.
I haven't warmed up properly.
I brought the wrong gear for the climb.
I'm not a good enough climber today.

Also include:

My shoes don't fit right
I'm too hungover
This thing is sandbagged!!!
I've had too many beers today
That Thai food last night has come back to haunt me
I'm PMSing!


Partner greenspace


Apr 2, 2004, 1:11 PM
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"that gecko in that jug hold bit my finger, I'm done for the day".... 8)


rvega


Apr 3, 2004, 12:18 AM
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It's too hot out.
It's too cold out.
I brought the wrong pair of shoes.
I climbed too much already today.
I haven't climbed enough today.
My hands are cashed.
My feet are cashed.
I'm depressed.
I drank too much coffee.
I didn't drink enough coffee.
On so on and so forth....


hotforclimbers


Apr 3, 2004, 8:43 PM
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I know that I put a lot of pressure on myself when I know the grade of the route that I'm about to lead/TR. If it's an easier grade (5.9 and below), I assume that the route is going to be easy and that I'll just hike it. This is not always the case. I have flashed some sport 11s and really struggled with some sport and crack 9s. On an off-day, it's a constant battle to remember to relax and concentrate on climbing efficiently and well rather than focusing on what I'm doing wrong and what grade the climb is. Sometimes there's just no way around an off day. In such cases, I just bag it and head for the closest tavern. Then I take a day or two off, go back to the crag and try again.


nas


Apr 8, 2004, 7:09 PM
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i also found that my cycles affect my climbing quite a bit. usually very weak just before and the first couple of days of my period.


katydid


Apr 8, 2004, 7:17 PM
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Yeah, sometimes I think I menstruate brain cells. :roll:

I have days when I can send hard (for me) stuff without trying too much, and days when it seems like I can't get off the deck. No pattern to it, just have to let the bad day go and try again the next one. Sometimes your body just won't listen to your brain.

k.


mcheshi


Apr 8, 2004, 7:47 PM
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Yeah, sometimes I think I menstruate brain cells. :roll:

k.

haha that's hilarious... i feel like sometimes too....


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