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iclimbtoo
Apr 3, 2004, 9:39 PM
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Registered: Feb 10, 2002
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So, I work at a climbing wall and lead an outdoor group affiliated with the college. We are going to have a comp sometime in early May, but I'm wondering how most of you out there with some experience directing climbing comps and setting for them go about doing this. How do you give points out? I've heard a variety of methods, but our climbing wall is pretty small and I'm looking for the best way to set up a point system for a small comp and small wall. I was thinking of awarding points for various routes and if it's an onsight or whatnot. (i.e. 500 points for a 5.11 onsight, 450 for a second attempt success, 400 points for third try attempt...and only three tries allowed, etc.) If anyone has any advice I would love to get some feedback!
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furbucket
Apr 4, 2004, 6:03 AM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2003
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Well... I don't direct them. But I've participated in many and they are all different. Some don't count falls, some do. Some limit the number of times you can try something, others don't. The points range from anywhere from the single digits to thousands of points. I believe it depends on the math skills of the people working at the gym.
Coming from me (a competitor)... count falls. And make it count! Don't just take off 50 points from a 500 point problem if they fall. Encourage those onsights. However, my husband (another competitor) does not like counting falls. Mainly because you can watch people, figure it out, and then you have an "onsight" advantage. And if the competitors are judges (which has always been the case) the "falls thing" is not enforceable.
I like the idea of only allowing 3 or 5 attempts. It can keep you from obsessing about that one problem and lets you move on. But it's not enforceable. My last comp nobody cared. They kept trying until they got it, counted it as their 5th attempt and no one cared. And then I started obsessing again. They also had a rule against giving other climbers beta. Yeah... no one cares!!!! Regarding the points, as long as the easier climbs are less points than the harder ones, it doesn't matter. But make sure your setters aren't on crack. I've been to comps where the best climbers couldn't get up a 10 pointer but anyone and their grandma could send the 70 pointer. Then it just becomes an exercise in finding the easy problems which have a lot of points. Which is fun... don't misunderstand me. But it's not the point of a comp.
And here is another issue you haven't though of... do you want a one hand or two handed finish? Obviously all climbers need to finish the climb "in control". Two hands is a sure thing. They are in control. But boy is it a pain. I leave that up to you... people may ask about it so you should probably have an answer. But its another thing that's not enforceable.
And make sure you keep non-competitors off the walls if it gets crowded. I've found the main challenge of these dang competitions is to actually get on the stupid wall! Even if the problem you want is free it overlaps about ten other problems that are occupied. There is nothing that can be done about that most likely... but if you keep non-competitors off, that helps a little. Otherwise, its just a reason to socialize with other climbers, drink beer (you are providing free beer, right?) and dream of the outdoors in spring. Which brings me to my question. Why are you holding a indoor climbing comp in spring????
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karmaklimber
Apr 4, 2004, 7:25 AM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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Deducting points for falls/attempts, in a way, shapes the atmosphere of the comp. If you're looking to make it a more relaxed, casual environment where the main emphasis is not so competitive, dont deduct pts for falls. If its a competition in part of a larger series of comps, points per competition can be added up and accumulated for some larger goal, you might want that more competitive spin, so deducting points for falls might be wise.
The climbing competitions that I've been to, more points have been awarded to routes that were lead as opposed top-roped. They set a point value for leading, and then if you lead the route without falling, that amount of points was added to the initial base score of the route.
For example: There's a 5.10c route worth 800 points. Leading any route in the comp would give you an additional 100 points. If the 5.10c was done on top-roped, you'd get 800 pts; if lead, you'd get 100 points. (Not counting deducted points for falls/failed attempts).
You could have "official" judges whereby the judge would stand beside a belay slave to belay the climber on the route. The climber would hand his/her score sheet to the judge before the climb, thereby leaving it up to the judge to tally the score for him/her.
But to be honest, the competitions that I've enjoyed the most were bouldering competitions. Totally informal, no one really cares how hard you climbed or whether or not you turned in a score card at all, or just came for the beer and pizza. As far as the format, they were red point, no limits on # of falls/attempts, no pts. deducted for failed attempts, and they were all self-scoring- Run around with your score card and do the problems, then get 1 or 2 people to initial your score card. Yes, its easy to cheat, but they were informal and just for fun, so nobody really cared. And the majority of people are on the honor system when deducting their own falls.
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coldclimb
Apr 4, 2004, 7:52 AM
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I personally like the "extra points for onsight" that they did at the comps I have been to. No points deducted for falls, but bonus for onsight.
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iclimbtoo
Apr 5, 2004, 3:35 PM
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Registered: Feb 10, 2002
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Sweet, this is good stuff, thanks! I think we'll be counting falls, not only to encourage people to branch out and try stuff, but also because time is a factor. We won't have all day (9am - 6pm) for awards and stuff. We're hoping to be done by 1pm.
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