zeus
Apr 6, 2004, 11:30 AM
Post #1 of 1
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Registered: Jan 28, 2004
Posts: 12
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I just got the new Matrix belay device from Mammut. I tried it and compared it to a BD ATC-XP (to compare the braking power) and a reverso. Here's what i found:
Although Mammut says that the Matrix was designed for the use with the new thin ropes, it does NOT brake as good as the atc-xp. The braking power (for rappel or belay) is more or less the same as with the reverso. This means that for heavy climbers an very thin ropes the braking power will not be sufficient (you would have to add a second biner)! I was disappointed by that fact an will stay with my ATC-XP for belaying an rappel, for in this point the XP is definitely better.
The Autoblock mode works well though. it's pretty much the same as with the Reverso. It's a bit easier to use than the reverso because of it's construction (it looks more like a tuber so it's easier to figure out the right way to clip it to the anchor). The handling in this mode and the limitations are the same as with the reverso.
If you want such a multi function tool, it doesn't matter wether you go for Petzl or Mammut. The Abilities are the same. Braking Power for heavy climbers and thin ropes will NOT be sufficient.
If you are looking for a good belay and rappel device (without autoblock) go for the ATC-XP (definitely).
Regards from cold Switzerland (brrrr...)
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