|
alpinerock
Apr 13, 2004, 3:37 AM
Post #1 of 13
(2675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 600
|
How would you help a friend learn to overcome the mental lead barrier? heres the situation, one of my climbing partners basically freaks out on lead, he can TR mid 11's but when it comes to lead he bails and hangs on 5.7, in fact he can solo stuff he won't lead. just today he bailed off a climb that he lead his second day climbing, today he couldn't get above the first bolt, he even tried taking practise lead falls, but when he actually started climbing he couldnt do it. let me say it again, this is not a newbie, he has been leading for more than a year, this is a new thing he used to be able to lead 11's i don't know what happened. and just to prevent misunderstanding this is not a one day thing, he hasn't been able to lead anything this season so far... well any help appreciated..thanx
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Apr 13, 2004, 3:46 AM
Post #2 of 13
(2675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
maculated moved this thread from General to Beginners.
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Apr 13, 2004, 3:48 AM
Post #3 of 13
(2675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
Sounds like the guy TRs 5.11's and now he DID lead them, right? Something had to have happened to him to make his lead head go away. I'd explore that.
|
|
|
|
|
gunked
Apr 13, 2004, 5:14 AM
Post #4 of 13
(2675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2002
Posts: 615
|
Leading isn't for everyone. No matter how good they are at it or not. Maybe this person should take up bouldering. Sounds like a high-baller to me.
And, Yes, there is a decent chance that said climber is dealing with a confidence issue due to trauma whether it's physical or emotional.
-Jason :D
|
|
|
|
|
keithlester
Deleted
Apr 14, 2004, 7:43 AM
Post #5 of 13
(2675 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
It's a common enough problem. Maybe his smart self-preservation instinct is currently ruling his head. A pal of mine used to climb anything, no fear, take big risks. Now he's had a couple of falls, seen somebody else get crippled in a bad fall, he cant lead for sh*t.
What he did was go back to the beginning, and now he climbs with safety at the front of his thoughts instead of pushed back behind "can do" and "immortality" He's going to be a much better climber and all his pals are a lot happier cos we think he's less likely to become a statistic.
Advise your pal that he should only climb when he's ready, let him know it happens to all of us, and DONT take the piss when he has a bad day. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Apr 14, 2004, 9:12 AM
Post #6 of 13
(2675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
make him lead easy and safe stuff. so hell get used to the air.
then throw in some well protected overhangs so hes falls on lead wont hurt. but make sure you know how to belay those or youll brake hes ankles.
|
|
|
|
|
jammer
Apr 14, 2004, 12:57 PM
Post #7 of 13
(2675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3472
|
Being his friend, have you noticed any changes in other aspects of his life where he would be placed in the position of leadership? Ha syour friend backed down from them also? If so ... it's not a climbing thing. Maybe you should drill down a little and see where the problem stems from ... being his friend, this should not be a problem.
Good luck & hope he does a solid lead soon!
|
|
|
|
|
crag
Apr 14, 2004, 1:20 PM
Post #8 of 13
(2675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 623
|
Friends don't let friends lead. Silly - don't you know this is how people get hurt!
Grade of climb does not make a climber and certainly after only one year of practicing their craft there is still much to learn….grasshopper. Your strengths only expose your weaknesses.
(Try mock leading on the harder climbs)
Crag
|
|
|
|
|
reedcrr
Apr 14, 2004, 1:22 PM
Post #9 of 13
(2675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 26, 2004
Posts: 99
|
Have you tried a good jockstrap? Sometimes in cases like this it is comforting to the scared leader to know that the boys are still with him! If for some reason this does not work have the leader check and see if they are in fact still there, he might have lost them. In which case just tell him to go find some and try again later! :D
That about sums it up!
|
|
|
|
|
p_grandbois
Apr 14, 2004, 2:04 PM
Post #10 of 13
(2675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 28, 2004
Posts: 328
|
If something happened to him on lead that made him afraid of it, you have to address that. The best way to build his confidence back up, I find, is to make him comfortable again by top roping him and letting him lead at the same time. I find in my instruction this works best and after a few with both, they don't even realize( in their climbing confidence) that the tope rope is gone.
|
|
|
|
|
tedc
Apr 14, 2004, 2:43 PM
Post #11 of 13
(2675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 756
|
Point of clarification. Someone who has been leading for a year IS a newbie; regardless of what grade the do or did climb. Give it TIME.
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerock
Apr 17, 2004, 2:07 AM
Post #12 of 13
(2675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 600
|
In reply to: Leading isn't for everyone. No matter how good they are at it or not. Maybe this person should take up bouldering. Sounds like a high-baller to me. And, Yes, there is a decent chance that said climber is dealing with a confidence issue due to trauma whether it's physical or emotional. -Jason :D
he has tooken up bouldering along with me, and yes we highball, just last week we both got a 30 ft highball first ascent. I guess he did have a "traumatic" fall a while ago, but i thought he was over it, it happened about 10 months ago, but he didn't have any problems leading until about a month ago... i don't know.
|
|
|
|
|
somethingcreative
Apr 17, 2004, 2:46 AM
Post #13 of 13
(2675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2004
Posts: 33
|
I think the only way to solve this is to talk to your friend and talk to him about his fears. He may feel better after talking about it, or may have decided leading isn't for him.
|
|
|
|
|
|
