|
zozo
Apr 20, 2004, 12:49 PM
Post #1 of 12
(1980 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2004
Posts: 3431
|
I want to start doing some training getting ready for a FULL season of 14er's this summer wich will lead into some easy winter alpine. Ive lived in Colorado almost two years now and still dont feel like my body is used to altitude. Even on easy hikes around 10,000 ft I still suck wind. I used to run cross country and am thinking of picking up running again. Obviousely that will help some but are there any specific things to do to help my cardio?
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
cantbuymefriends
Apr 20, 2004, 1:02 PM
Post #2 of 12
(1980 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2003
Posts: 670
|
"I suggest going out to the nearest pub and getting completely, and utterly, wasted. Make sure you smoke at least 1 pack of unfiltered Camel's. Get the full ashtray, pour a drink in it and then pour the mixture into a water bottle.
When you get home (ideally around 3:30am) stick the vile mixture into your freezer. Put on your best goretex and thermal layer. Climb in. At 5:30am, get out, drink (chew?) the mixture and go run the biggest flight of stairs you can find. Run until your heart threatens to explode.
Your dehydration caused by the alcohol should adequately simulate what you may experience at higher altitudes. Your lung capacity should be sufficiently impaired by the smokes to simulate a oxygen poor environment. The freezer episode should adequately replicate a bivy. Drinking the booze/butt mixture should simulate your lack of appetite.....
Oh — once your finished your workout, go to work (to replicate the long walk out)." - Greg Hamilton. :lol: :lol: :lol:
(PS. Sorry for hi-jacking your thread...)
|
|
|
|
|
bumblie
Apr 20, 2004, 1:02 PM
Post #3 of 12
(1980 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 7629
|
I used to go out to Colorado once a year to hike 14ers. To get in shape, I'd get on the stairmaster 2-3 times per week. Forty-five minute sessions on the highest setting I could stand. On the weekends, I go climbing at areas that had stiff approaches.
On several occassions, I' was hiking above 14,000 less than 24 hours after leaving sea level.
One thing that may help you acclimatize is to camp near your objective the night before, instead of just doing a day trip.
|
|
|
|
|
bumblie
Apr 20, 2004, 1:05 PM
Post #4 of 12
(1980 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 7629
|
Forget everything I said and just follow cantbuymefriends advice.
|
|
|
|
|
zozo
Apr 20, 2004, 1:06 PM
Post #5 of 12
(1980 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2004
Posts: 3431
|
In reply to: "I suggest going out to the nearest pub and getting completely, and utterly, wasted. Make sure you smoke at least 1 pack of unfiltered Camel's. Get the full ashtray, pour a drink in it and then pour the mixture into a water bottle. When you get home (ideally around 3:30am) stick the vile mixture into your freezer. Put on your best goretex and thermal layer. Climb in. At 5:30am, get out, drink (chew?) the mixture and go run the biggest flight of stairs you can find. Run until your heart threatens to explode. Your dehydration caused by the alcohol should adequately simulate what you may experience at higher altitudes. Your lung capacity should be sufficiently impaired by the smokes to simulate a oxygen poor environment. The freezer episode should adequately replicate a bivy. Drinking the booze/butt mixture should simulate your lack of appetite..... Oh — once your finished your workout, go to work (to replicate the long walk out)." - Greg Hamilton. :lol: :lol: :lol: (PS. Sorry for hi-jacking your thread...)
Your waste of time - 2 to 5 minuets
My waste of time - 10 seconds.........
You lose.
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Apr 20, 2004, 5:23 PM
Post #6 of 12
(1979 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
[quote:76e16b1a98="bumblie"]Forget everything I said and just follow cantbuymefriends advice.[/quote:76e16b1a98]
the above post by bumblie demostrates the second golden rule of warfare: "always know when you're outgunned."
:lol:
|
|
|
|
|
adeptus
Apr 23, 2004, 8:41 PM
Post #7 of 12
(1980 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 322
|
If you want to get good at mountaineering you should train endurance. One important thing is to train your body’s ability to burn fat rather than glucose because your body has stored much more energy as fat. This can be accomplished by doing at least one 2-3 hour workout (running or cycling) a week at 60% of your maximum heart rate. Try not to consume any glucose while training, because that way you push your body to only rely on fat for energy, you should however consume around 1.5 liters of water during the workout. The training heart rate should be calculated like this: 220 - age - heart rate at rest (50). So if you're 20 that would be around 90 beats/minuet. This would make your body more efficient at burning fat, so you can keep on going for a longer period of time in the mountains.
Apart from this 2-3 hour workout you should run about 30 minuets 3 times a week at 80% of your maximum heart rate to train your VO2-max. You should consume some glucose and a little protein and lots of water within one hour after any workout to optimise restitution.
|
|
|
|
|
zozo
Apr 23, 2004, 8:49 PM
Post #8 of 12
(1980 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2004
Posts: 3431
|
Good stuff! Thanks. Question? How do you get the fat in the first place? Im pretty thin. Never been able to gain weight. Im sure it will hit me all at once one day but for now, nuthin! I eat alot!
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
gds
Apr 23, 2004, 9:00 PM
Post #9 of 12
(1980 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2004
Posts: 710
|
While I subscribe to overall training and cross training; the BEST training for walking uphill with a pack is walking uphill with a pack. Even super fit athletes do not cross over to other events without specifc training.
So, while cycling, running are good and will help-nothing will owrk like hiking uphill with a pack.
As to being thin- you will still burn fat at the level of work suggested above. This is not a matter of losing weight it is a matter of getting your metabolism to be effcient for endurance. No one has a glucose level suuch that they can work hard for 6 hours and not burn fat. The inability to efficiently make the crossover is what marathoners refer to as "bonking" at the 20 mile or 2.5 hour mark.
One other (picky) comment. Lots has been written about the 60% work level. Personally, I simply so not enjoy moving so slow as to stay at that level. I feel better at ~80% at find that I can maintain that forever without injury or exhaustion. For example, for me when cycling 60% would translate to riding ~13-14 mph on flat ground. That is just too boring. At 80% it is more like 16-17 mph and I'm more comfortable.
This is all about fun-right?!
|
|
|
|
|
btreanor
Apr 23, 2004, 9:00 PM
Post #10 of 12
(1980 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 121
|
The best training for climbing (especially alpine climbing) is climbing.
I have been super, super fit at sea-level and find that it still takes a few days to adjust and climb at a super, super fit (for me) level at altitude. Of course, being fit at sea-level helps.
I am sure that you will find that once you start doing more alpine climbing, alpine climbing will become easier and more comfortable.
The best recipe is to climb, a lot, all the time if you can. If you are working a cube farm or some other job that will not allow this, climb as much as possible. Climb every weekend, go cragging, bouldering and running after work. Always emphasize endurance (although power is never bad to have if you can get it without sacrificing endurance). Get used to long days. Start in the dark and finish in the dark. Try to see how many pitches you can do in a single day at the local crag. Run and bike everywhere when you are not climbing (e.g., to and from work).
Oh, yeah, I almost forgot. Try to climb as much as you can! :D
PS-I meant to be humorous, not condescending. I live at sea level these days and know what you are talking about. I teach, so I do get lots of time off and do lots of climbing. Other than being pretty good off the couch/out of the pub because I have been climbing a long time, the only advice I can give is to climb as much as you can and remember that if you are not having fun, it is not worth it (and, of course, that it doesn't have to be fun to be fun). Good luck. Again, I'm sure that things will work themselves out for you as you start knocking off those 14ers.
|
|
|
|
|
lookaughtbelow
Apr 26, 2004, 12:15 PM
Post #11 of 12
(1980 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 12, 2003
Posts: 37
|
when i train for long alpine stuff i usually do stairmaster for 30 minutes or so, and if i cant find a stairmaster i just run the stairs in my building. start slower without weights, then work your way up to wearing a weighted pack. i basically jog up and down the stairs (11 floors) for 30 min. when i use the pack i go slower but its still a bitch with 30-40 pounds on your back.
ppl look at me wierd when i do it. you would think that they would understand that im training when im climbing stairs witha huge pack on, but no, they dont. :roll:
|
|
|
|
|
hema
Apr 26, 2004, 1:33 PM
Post #12 of 12
(1980 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 251
|
Pick and easy route and climb laps on it with your packback on (and filled with heavy stuff, like say 10l of water and the rest of your aid-rack). Lead the route everytime and put in one less gear than on your least ascent. Have one of your friends throw rocks and ice-lumps at you.
Also when you just can't climb anymore stick your feet and hands in a bowl filled with ice (and some water). Be sure you haven't drinked anything and have your friends poke you with a stick so you don't fall asleep.
|
|
|
|
|
|
