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rokstahr39


Apr 25, 2004, 8:36 PM
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at comps...
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I totally psych myself out at comps... then don't climb as well as I know I can. After the first climb I'm usually ok, but how do I clam myself down before I start at all? Any tips would be appreciated!

Becky


krestkid


Apr 25, 2004, 9:05 PM
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Re: at comps... [In reply to]
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I recently did my first comp and found myself in a similar situation. I found that I climbed really easy routes and barely pushed myself, I don't know why...maybe I was intimidated?? My advice to you would be to climb a warm-up, you said you were calm after the first climb, so because you realize that about yourself take a climb or two in order to calm yourself down.


superfox


Apr 25, 2004, 10:25 PM
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You sould do a really easy climb for your first one. Even if it doesn't warm you up, you will be much less nervous if you're on a route that you know you won't fall off of. Try to pick one that seems too easy for you. The worst thing possible is to get on a route that is just below your level and be so scared of falling that you overgrip a lot and get pumped, even if it would normally be easy. If you try the same route later in the comp, you will probably do it, but get a lot less pumped. Nervousness (at least for me) is inescapable before a comp, but by doing an easy route you can get rid of most of it and be confident for the rest of the comp.


the_antoon


Apr 25, 2004, 11:52 PM
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I normally start out with the easiest route there, then one a bit harder...nothing hard enough to give me a pump. Just try to think of it as a normal day of climbing...you don't go out and jump on a route that is at your limit or above it. You warm up a bit then get on it before you start getting fatigued. Also...don't worry about wasting time at comps...especially when they are top 5 or 6 or a similar format. Take your time and figure out which routes you want to try. Get all them and then keep going hard. COMPS ARE MEANT TO BE FUN....don't turn it into a bad experience. That seems like a lot of peoples problems...they go to comps worried about what everyone else will think of thier ability. Just go and have fun win, lose, or anything in between. And realize that whenever people are better than you, they don't have degrading thoughts about you, all they think about is when they were there and you will be the same in no time.


el_trevor


Apr 30, 2004, 3:06 PM
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dude just get hype , listen to music , i know before my comps im psyched to climb , just have a good time


fiend


Apr 30, 2004, 3:14 PM
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Are you talking about Iso format or Friendly?

For friendly comps, try to enter with some people you know... treat it like any other session or day at the gym and just try to have fun with it. After a comp or two of just having fun then you should be more relaxed and better able to take it seriously.

For isolation comps, there's not too much you can do to stave off the nerves. Find out the order, know when you're going out and try to plan your time in iso accordingly. Bring music in, but make sure you save your pump music until close to your actual climb time and listen to something chill while you're waiting to get on deck. Often times the other competitors will want their personal space but if there's someone you can talk to then try to have non-climbing conversations or at least think about good times you've had climbing... avoid all stressful thoughts. When warming up in iso make sure to take it easy, I've seen a lot of people burn themselves out while warming up because they've got nervous energy to burn. Lots of stretching, a bit of light light climbing and not too much else.

When it actually comes time to climb then just do your best. Try to get to a mental place where you aren't thinking about the people watching and don't hear the cheers anymore. Everyone at the comp is rooting for you, even your competitors (well the good ones should be :P ) so just give it your best shot.

Like anything, it just gets easier with time.


the_antoon


May 2, 2004, 9:22 PM
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I was thinking about this post and realized I have the opposite problem of you. When I train...no matter what kind of mood I am in, I can never climb as hard as I do at comps. When I come home from a comp, my finger tips hurt and my hands have about the strength of a 10 year old girl. I push myself so hard, and get noticably better. When I go to my next session I can send routes that I could not even touch before the comp. My hardest training session never seems to be able to come close to my comps. Any suggestions would be great...


rokstahr39


May 3, 2004, 12:19 AM
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what's your secret?!?


Becky


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