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xclimber
May 17, 2004, 8:13 PM
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Anyone have a recommendation on a set of good dually certified ropes?
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emtclimber
May 17, 2004, 9:12 PM
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:wtf: are you talking about? Are you meaning that is certified for both double and single? Cause if you are, I've never heard of such a thing....mind you, I don't know it all.
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xclimber
May 17, 2004, 9:17 PM
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It refers to a rope that can be used as a twin and/or a double. For multi-pitch it is a thing of joy!
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geezergecko
May 17, 2004, 9:20 PM
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I believe what xclimber is talking about are ropes certified as both twin (2 linking circles infinity symbol) and double (1/2 symbol).
Oops, reply already posted by xclimber.
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emtclimber
May 17, 2004, 9:28 PM
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I have a set of doubles and Mammut does recommend using them for both double or twin applications. I have the Mammut "Genisis" 60m superdry, 48g/m. Hope that was of some help....
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stymingersfink
May 18, 2004, 12:42 AM
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BEAL Ice Line 8.1mm half rope. Buddy took a 25foot whipper on a single strand this past winter on the 5th pitch of Stairway. The other half was clipped, but was far enough below the top placement that it didn't get loaded during the fall.
BTW, any rope certified as a half rope will also work as a twin. The reverse is not true.
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banzai
May 18, 2004, 2:18 AM
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In reply to: BTW, any rope certified as a half rope will also work as a twin. The reverse is not true.
It's true that some of the 8mm half ropes are also certified as twin, but there is a reason why the 9mm half ropes don't have the dual certification. It's because if you clip both ropes to the same piece of pro, it significantly increases the forces in the system if you fall on it. So if your protection is less then ideal, you don't want to do this with the larger half ropes. Just something to keep in mind...
F.
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dredsovrn
May 18, 2004, 2:37 AM
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In reply to: :wtf: are you talking about? Are you meaning that is certified for both double and single? Cause if you are, I've never heard of such a thing....mind you, I don't know it all.
I believe he means that he (or she, sorry didn't look at the profile) is looking for ropes certified as half ropes and twins. I don't have a recommendation for you of duals, but I can highly recommend Bluewater Excellence 8.6 half ropes. I was originally going to get dual cert ropes, but now that I have been climbing with these, I don't know why I would. I haven't had a time where it made sense. If you are climbing in a striaght line, just clip both. That's me though. Good luck.
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dirtineye
May 18, 2004, 3:17 AM
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The point about NOT clipping doubles at the same level is a good one, that someone was ignorant of this is not surprizing at all. It is important to know hte im[act forces of your rope, and to be aware that as teh rope ages the impact force it transmitts increases.
As for mammut genesis being rated for twin or double, that is news to me, and I have been using them foir a while. Mammut does not make this claim on thier site or on the info that comes with the genesis ropes.
PMI makes a set of Verglass ropes that are rated twin or double, they perform well but seem easier to damage than I would like. I will probably buy another set of the verglass because as someone else pointed out, twin/double certified ropes are wonderful.
The only thing I would want in addition is sharp edge protection.
After climbing on Doubles, and especially on twin/doubles, using a single rope just does not get it.
Just be sure your belayer can handle the complications of doubles rope management..
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tedc
May 18, 2004, 2:58 PM
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In reply to: BTW, any rope certified as a half rope will also work as a twin. The reverse is not true.
The FOREWORD is not true either. :o Only thin doubles with very low impact force can also be used as twins; although I can't honestly think of ANY reason to do so. :? (OK maybe if you had a really crappy belayer 8^) ).
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emtclimber
May 18, 2004, 4:43 PM
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In reply to: As for mammut genesis being rated for twin or double, that is news to me, and I have been using them foir a while. Mammut does not make this claim on thier site or on the info that comes with the genesis ropes.
If you go to page 13 of the Mammut rope guide( the one that I got with both of my ropes) you'll see in the section on the far right under "Half (Double) Ropes" starting at line 4, sentence 3 states...
"But here you have the choice between twin rope technique, where both ropes run parallel through the protection and half rope technique, where the and ropes run separately through different protection points."
If the manufacturer recomends it, good enough for me, since they tend to be over cautious.
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tedc
May 18, 2004, 5:05 PM
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In reply to: If the manufacturer recomends it, good enough for me, since they tend to be over cautious.
BAAAHHhhhhh, BAAHhhhhhh.... :roll:
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xclimber
May 19, 2004, 3:57 PM
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To answer my own question... The following is a query I sent to Mammut last night and their response. The plot thickens:
[violet]Greetings,
Are any of your ropes dually certified to be used as both twins and
doubles (half)? If yes, are they edge rated as well?
Thanks,
Jerry[/violet]
From: Buschor Domenic
Date: 2004/05/19 Wed AM 11:18:13 EDT
To: "'jcagle_shops@cox.net'"
Subject: AW: Rope Certification
Dear Mr Jagle
Thank you for your interest in Mammut ropes.
A rope can not be dually certified because the testing/certification
requirements/measuring etc. are different (half rope standards for every
half rope and single rope standards for both twin ropes together).
The most significant difference can be identified in the impact force
however.
Concerning sharp edge testing all of our ropes are tested/certified for at
least one sharp edge fall (twin ropes used both ropes together!).
In order to give you more information you can find our rope brochure in the attachment.
Freundliche Grüsse / With best regards
Domenic Buschor
___________________________________________________________
Domenic Buschor
Product Manager Hardware
Mammut
Mammut Sports Group AG
Industriestr. Birren, CH-5703 Seon
Tel. ++41 /(0) 62 769 83 69
Fax. ++41 /(0) 62 769 83 11
www.mammut.ch
-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
mailto:jcagle_shops@cox.net
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 19. Mai 2004 06:40
An: info@mammut.ch
Betreff: Rope Certification
Download Attachment: seilfibel_030617-E-PDF.pdf
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