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kachoong
Aug 2, 2004, 10:49 PM
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Does it exist?
I'm looking for any information people might have on ice conditions, if any, that occur in the Virginia's (or surrounds) and when they might start forming......
It is obvious to me that there are thousands of other features worth climbing in the U.S..... I have climbed ice in Colorado extensively before...... but I would like to know about the Appalachians in particular (or any other regions in VA that might have flows of ice).
I've seen somewhere on the site about 'White Canyon' or something like that... and 'Whilloughby' (not sure if this is East coast)... is there anything else? And where?
I am in the region at the end of the year and wanted to know if it's worth taking my tools etc and hack some ice, and whether by then it has formed or not.
....Dave
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crossfit2
Aug 2, 2004, 10:54 PM
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Dave,
You might be surprised as there really is some decent ice in the southeast- depending on current freeze/thaw cycles. Check out coolclimbing.com for some route and location info. Im in NC and the ice is most accessible in the Asheville area. Ice can also be decent at Doughton state park on the NC/VA border.
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kachoong
Aug 2, 2004, 11:02 PM
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Awesome....
thanks heaps crossfit2, exactly what I was after...... appreciate the help!
maybe it I get some climbing in over there, I can add some more stuff into the RC.com routes.....
....Dave
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kachoong
Aug 2, 2004, 11:03 PM
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*mouse stuck*
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kachoong
Aug 2, 2004, 11:04 PM
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*mouse stuck*
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brianc
Aug 2, 2004, 11:06 PM
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In reply to: Does it exist?
A heavily caveated "yes." Which is to say that the greater VA/MD/WV/PA area does have some areas that form up, but, and I'm writing in the most general of terms here, not with a whole lot of consistency. I've gone ice climbing in early and mid December one year, and I've also been climbing rock in short sleeve conditions the next year within the same timeframe.
The problem is that the mid Atlantic can have wild temperature swings in winter which, given the relatively little ice that forms in the first place, means that even if things are in one weekend that's no guarantee they would be there the next.
In reply to: I've seen somewhere on the site about 'White Canyon' or something like that... and 'Whilloughby' (not sure if this is East coast)... is there anything else? And where?
That's White Oak Canyon which in the Shenandoah. It's relatively reliable within the parameters above. Crabtree Falls is supposed to be good, and there are a few areas in PA as well.
But you got to the heart of the matter when you brought up Whilloughby which is in VT - and now we're talking some real ice.
In reply to: I am in the region at the end of the year and wanted to know if it's worth taking my tools etc and hack some ice, and whether by then it has formed or not.
In short, it's worth brining them if you think you're gonna be able to make it up North.
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kachoong
Aug 2, 2004, 11:29 PM
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So... white oak canyon is a 'worth checking out'? ....and it seems that North Carolina has some nice looking routes like 'winding stair' and 'starshine'..... but mostly shorter stuff.... and by the sounds of it (and forgive my knowledge of the states) that VT is much further north...but worth the visit?
....I can understand about the conditions being so variable.... especially with flooding rain washing away nicely formed ice routes...... hmmmm.... NOt that it's any comparison, but in the canadian rockies I had experienced the chinooks which change conditions quite rapidly also..... and when I was in Boulder I was rock climbing at Table Mtn on 17th December in a t-shirt and on Christmas Day I climbed solid ice in Boulder canyon.......
So anyway... it's worth taking the tools and checking out conditions closer to the departure.....
...Thanks muchly!
....Dave
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lordjim
Aug 3, 2004, 12:12 AM
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If I remember right there is an Ice guide to the southeast, but I can't find it right now. I do know that if you are in KY there is quite a bit of ice along the roadcuts here.
Damn this took a while. Southen Fried Ice by Michael Crowder. When in doubt ask a (pseudo-)librarian, we rarely give up.
http://www.wildwoodoutfitters.com/pd_southern.cfm
or
http://coolclimbing.com/guidebook1.htm
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oregonalpine
Aug 6, 2004, 4:09 AM
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Its all about where you are and when youre there... I've seen waterfall ice in eastern tennessee around big frog mountain but i have a feeling its not very often that that occurs... either way ill be out scouting with my tools!
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shamusnsusej
Aug 6, 2004, 5:13 AM
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ive never had the chance to get on ice, nor do i think its for me, but i have seen people ice climbing here in the NRG. as has been said, the consistency is ... well, not. junkyard cave is the only place ive witnessed anything, but there are some wet spots at kaymoor that im sure freeze over nicley.
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tim
Aug 6, 2004, 5:39 AM
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Willoughby is the real shit. White Oak, etc. are not something you really want to drive real far for. You'd be better off talking to Tim Anderson and exploring Pennsylvania with his crew if you're stuck in the mid-Atlantic for a winter.
Or heading up to New Hampshire, New York, and Vermont (Willoughby!). Vermont is ALWAYS worth a visit; it's a neat place, I lived in Burlington for a year and it's... strange.
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kachoong
Aug 6, 2004, 6:08 AM
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Thanks heaps guys!
More advice than I was expecting, but that's what's so great about this website.
It seems at this stage, I will be taking my tools and gear, maybe even my rock shoes just in case of freak weather.... but I may be around from the beginning weeks of December until around mid Jan.... and I'm sure that in the four or so weeks I'm over there in the Appalachians I'll probably find a week or so to go and scope out up North. Hey, I've never been to NY so it could be an opportunity....
thanks again.... appreciate it.
....Dave
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drake
Aug 7, 2004, 12:31 AM
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Check www.neice.com for pictures and info. I have no idea what the ice is like in Queensland but the ice can be pretty good in New England. Willoughby (in New Hampshire) is nice if you like 500' WI5's. I plan on heading up to Willoughby this winter.
Snugglers Notch is fun near Stowe Vermont.
Keene Valley NY is nice but smaller. Poke o Moonshine has some nice lines that are around 450' in varying difficulties.
There is much more.
Drake
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oregonalpine
Aug 7, 2004, 10:21 PM
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Most definitely take your rock shoes... there's some amazing bouldering around here anytime
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kachoong
Aug 8, 2004, 2:19 AM
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In reply to: I have no idea what the ice is like in Queensland but the ice can be pretty good in New England. Willoughby (in New Hampshire) is nice if you like 500' WI5's. I plan on heading up to Willoughby this winter.
lol.... Queensland ice ey?..... probably the most ice you'll see here in the 'sunshine state' is what falls out of the esky when your drunken friends knock it over getting the beer out. You might on occasion find a few frosts in the southern hinterland though in winter.
Anyway...it'd be great to hook up with anyone on the Eastern side willing to show a thawed and dried out Aussie ice climber that 'neck of the woods' in December....
....Dave
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kachoong
Aug 30, 2004, 5:03 AM
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....Just updating my original thread, since I have confirmed that I will be heading to the east coast of the U.S at the beginning of December.
....From advice above (thanks crossfit2, drake, tim, oregonalpine, lordjim and brianc) and from what I've searched for, the best stuff seems to be down in the SW corner of NC around Highlands (am I correct?)... without, of course, having to go up north to Vermont and New Hampshire.... I am planning to be up in the NY vicinity around new year although may have less time to climb (hang on, did I just say that? :? )....
....anyway, so far it seems I will be available at least to climb some ice during the week of the 13th Dec to 17th Dec, depending upon ice conditions.... I will naturally know more exact dates and details as December draws closer, but I have at least booked the flights....
....if anyone is interested to climb with a seasoned Australian ice climber (not spicy, just a little herbal).... then it'd be awesome to hook up.... just pm me anytime and we can organise something.... I'll try and revive the thread later when the time draws near....
....Dave
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landrvrnut21
Aug 31, 2004, 2:46 AM
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Here in Akron OH, we ussually have 6" of snow on the ground and average about 20degrees. Yes we have some waterfall ice not but 45minutes from my house in the cuyahoga natl park. I have climbed Brandywine falls with friends numerous times, and while we have been threatened with arrests and criminal charges, etc. the first few times, they have pretty much let us go. The rangers just didnt understand the sport I guess.
PA may have some good ice, you would just have to find just the right area at just the right time. Hell at worst, you bring your gear, and its 60degrees. At best, you may be able to spend a week climbing to your little hearts content.
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storer
Aug 31, 2004, 4:15 PM
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There is a rumor there is ice by me in Mentor, but you'll have to sneak in the metro park at night. My goal this winter is to find this mythical ice.
Steve
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tim
Aug 31, 2004, 5:13 PM
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So, in conclusion, hit Willoughby. ;-)
In all seriousness, the last two winters produced a LOT of fine ice climbing in PA, and you would be well advised to chat with tanderson if you'll be near those parts. I did look into hitting North Carolina a few times, but you're talking about mostly pegged-out WI3 and (maybe) WI4 flows there. Michael Crowder wrote a guide to Southern-Fried Ice; Google it. Ohio does get pretty cold, too -- wouldn't be surprised if there was some ice there, though I would be surprised if it was significantly tall. I learned to climb ice in Ithaca, NY (while at Cornell) and there are a lot of flows in SW New York and the adjoining western parts of Pennsylvania.
But Willoughby, and Cannon (the Black Dike), and the flows along the Kancamagus Highway in New Hampshire, or (best!) a trip to Katahdin, are the real deal. Plane tickets on JetBlue (to VT) or Southwest (to NH) are pretty cheap, too. As others have mentioned, http://www.neice.com/ is pretty much the nerve center of that scene once the season gets underway.
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kachoong
Aug 31, 2004, 9:35 PM
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Thanks heaps guys.... your info is awesome.... I appreciate it.
...I'll be figuring it all out a little further down the line... hopefully I can hook up with at least one of you guys while I'm over there...
...Thanks again...
....Dave
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pico23
Sep 8, 2004, 1:58 AM
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the bottom line is anything south of NY is tenuous.
NC has some ice for a week or two a year sometimes. as do many of the other southeastern states. heck even arkansas and mississippi have ice occasionaly. i was backpacking once in the winter in Arkansas and it got so cold that a creek completely froze overnight.
i've talked to climbers from GA while in the gunks and they told me the ice is always in "early season" shape when it's in.
if you want real ice head to at a minimum the Catskills in southern NY. For better stuff with cutting edge test pieces try the Daks. Willoughby is supposed to be amazing for harder stuff. Smugglers in VT has a little bit for everyone from easy gullies to harder stuff. NH has plenty of ice scattered around the state on public land. And Maine has some of the most remote ice in the eastern US.
BTW, Iowa has ice as well if you are just desperate to find some ice somewhere.
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pico23
Sep 8, 2004, 2:04 AM
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In reply to: So, in conclusion, hit Willoughby. ;-) I learned to climb ice in Ithaca, NY (while at Cornell) and there are a lot of flows in SW New York and the adjoining western parts of Pennsylvania.
lots of potential in the finger lakes region. it gets cold, lots of waterfalls, and lots of wet canyons. ice forms but you have to poach most of the ice because much of it is on either private land or state park land. while DEC land is pretty much do as you want unless otherwise posted, State Parks land is pretty much don't do anything unless we post a sign saying you can. You can be arrested for trespassing. Still there is a lot of potential in a good winter. people in the western NY, central NY region tend to keep quiet about their ice destinations so you probably won't get too much info.
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