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a3webhog
Oct 27, 2004, 4:29 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2002
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There are a bunch of 5.7 and below 2-pitch leads on Turtle Rock that look like a lot of fun. However, there are no stars on them so I'm a bit nervous. Does anyone have any experience with them? Mostly, I'm looking for routes that are well-protected.
thanks in advance
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fredbob
Oct 27, 2004, 4:54 PM
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Registered: Mar 7, 2003
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The easier routes on the Northeast Face of Turtle Rock have been re-evaluated and re-described in the new guidebook (Joshua Tree Vol. 1; Joshua Tree West). A few have been assigned a star. Here is a run-down on that section of the rock, descent info and the routes/current ratings: [(c), 2004, Randy Vogel; all rights reserved]:
TURTLE ROCK - NORTHEAST FACE
The Northeast face is somewhat broken and features a number of worthwhile, mostly 2 pitch easy to moderate climbs. To reach the Northeast face, walk left around the rock. Routes receive some sun in the morning and afternoon shade. Descent: From lower pitches, belay anchors/rap stations can be found. From summit, head down the west end of the rock (somewhat tricky route finding).
1794. BISK 4 *
1795. RIPPLES 7 *
1796. LUMINOUS BEAST 10c R
1797. LUMINOUS BREAST 8 R
1798. REHAB 9
1799. WANDERING TORTOISE 3
1800. BLISTERING 5 *
1801. SNAPPING TURTLE 9 R
1802. GIVE A MOUSE A COOKIE 10b *
1803. EASY DAY 4
1804. NINJA TURTLE 8 R *
1805. TURTLE SOUP 3
1806. CORNERED 5
These are 1 to 3 pitch routes, with most of the easier ones being 2 pitches. New guide has pitch by pitch descriptions, photo of face, topo, suggested gear and FA info.
Actually, Intersection Rock has several good 2 pitch routes which are generally higher quality than those on Turtle Rock. But Turtle Rock can be a fun place for novice climbers to get some experience with multi-pitch climbing (uncommon for Josh).
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a3webhog
Oct 27, 2004, 5:18 PM
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Thanks Fredbob! Is the new guide widely available?
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fredbob
Oct 27, 2004, 5:29 PM
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Registered: Mar 7, 2003
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In reply to: Thanks Fredbob! Is the new guide widely available?
Vol. 1 was sent to publishers in mid September. I am unsure when it will be available as it seems to be languishing (no editor assigned to it yet). When it comes out, it will be available just about everywhere.
Read my profile for more info on the new guide.
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