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footprint
Jan 3, 2005, 8:08 AM
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does anyone have some advice on what I can do for chafed fingertips?
I built a home wall a 2-3 weeks ago and I train 5 days a week. and it is getting really nasty sometimes. the grips are abrasive and my fingers get this really nice red color in no time. and it hurts! and it bothers my training! I rub some tincture of iodine from time to time, but it would be great if you have some ideas of how I can deal with this.
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mingleefu
Jan 3, 2005, 9:39 AM
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...I won't be the one to say it. Who'll be the first to jump on this ??
you could consider climbing less. Or if the holds are just too rough, you could sand them lightly. Get some climber friends over to help sand the holds by abrading their fingers too. Use more chalk.. it'll cake on the hold and eventually even out the surface. Try to be more static in your movements: Put your hand on the hold, but don't twist it or dynamically yank on it so much, and your skin won't shred across its surface.
If it's that bad, I would just sand the holds a little bit.
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footprint
Jan 3, 2005, 9:59 AM
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thanks!
climbing less is not an option - I am determined to get better by spring time. I even spent some time climbing with my fingertips bleeding.
I do climb with friends -)) (yeah, let them bleed! )
and yes, I have noticed that climbing with more chalk makes things better.
what you said about sanding the holds never occured to my mind. maybe I should try it - it sounds interesting.
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mike_gibson
Jan 3, 2005, 1:02 PM
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Tape your finger tips. Use a strip approximately 1 centimeter wide and wrap it in a diagonal pattern so that it crosses each joint on the underside or bottom of the knuckle. Dont tape over the top of the knuckle. Use a long strip that you can wrap it back over itself. I had to practice this a couple of times to get it to work where it wouldnt peel off after a few minutes of climbing.
Nu-skin or liquid band aid can help also.
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cliffhanger9
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Jan 3, 2005, 1:45 PM
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In reply to: thanks! climbing less is not an option - I am determined to get better by spring time. I even spent some time climbing with my fingertips bleeding.
I understand your determination but I think in the long run this will produce more problems then it is worth. (tendonitis et al.)
I am no training expert but it seems like common sense - if you are climbing till you bleed 5 times a week - and your body is telling you ouch - its time to to take a break man. maybe try cutting it down to 4 days a week taking a break every other day or something..
Getting better is about building a solid endurance not just technical experience - that means you need to allow for recovery time and rest - you wont loose it all from one or two datys of rest. In fact I think you will find that if you take a week off (after having climbed for 5 days till you bleed for a few weeks) that you will notice improvement when you start up again. Let your hands/skin/tendons heal...if you destroy them all within the next 3 months you may never climb again.. :?
Anyway, if I am climbing hard for a few consecutive days definitely bring the tape...prevents flappers and gives you a little more climb time once they occur
best of luck with your training though :wink:
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xclimber
Jan 3, 2005, 1:48 PM
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Bag Balm
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wanderinfree
Jan 3, 2005, 1:56 PM
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I would try to find something called "Climb On bar." Basically comes in a small tin, and looks like a round wax bar. It's the equivalent of chap stick for your fingers. does an amazing job with saving your callouses and easing the recovery time on the skin on your fingertips between climbs.
Check on www.climbonproducts.com
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bumblie
Jan 3, 2005, 2:15 PM
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In reply to: I would try to find something called "Climb On bar." Basically comes in a small tin, and looks like a round wax bar. It's the equivalent of chap stick for your fingers. does an amazing job with saving your callouses and easing the recovery time on the skin on your fingertips between climbs. Check on www.climbonproducts.com
This is what you need.
Also, try to give your hands a rest from time to time. If you let them fully recover by taking three or four (oh, the horror :shock: ) days off, your skin be tougher and healthier as a result.
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footprint
Jan 3, 2005, 2:40 PM
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to mike_gibson - this was the first thing I thought about, but it seems I'm not well trained because tape makes me fall off the grips (have you noticed that you have to use more power when you have tape on and you loose your "feeling" for the hold?). but if it gets as bad again - back to tape I go.
cliffhanger9: you 're right, I have changed my training to 3 days work and 1 day rest... and see how I go. (p.s. I'm female :wink: )
wanderinfree: perfect idea! do you know if they deliver to Bulgaria? -)))
THANK YOU ALL FOR THE HELP! I"ll try everything you suggested, hope it works.
...it's just so hard to restrain yourself from climbing bumblie! I have put the wall in my bedroom -)) the three-four days off "horror" gives me nightmares
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mike_gibson
Jan 3, 2005, 4:05 PM
Post #10 of 16
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In reply to: to mike_gibson - this was the first thing I thought about, but it seems I'm not well trained because tape makes me fall off the grips (have you noticed that you have to use more power when you have tape on and you loose your "feeling" for the hold?).
I had the same problem at first. I had to experiment with the taping a bit until I got the tightness of wrap and thickness just right. The important part is to run the tape diagonally on the bottom of the finger so that it wont roll or peel off.
I have a habit of ripping my finger tips off on crystals so I tape pretty regularly.
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cliffhanger9
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Jan 3, 2005, 11:25 PM
Post #11 of 16
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In reply to: In reply to: to mike_gibson - this was the first thing I thought about, but it seems I'm not well trained because tape makes me fall off the grips (have you noticed that you have to use more power when you have tape on and you loose your "feeling" for the hold?). I had the same problem at first. I had to experiment with the taping a bit until I got the tightness of wrap and thickness just right. The important part is to run the tape diagonally on the bottom of the finger so that it wont roll or peel off. I have a habit of ripping my finger tips off on crystals so I tape pretty regularly.
There is a great article on this in the ARTICLES section...
How to Tape Your Fingers
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veritasmmv
Jan 3, 2005, 11:38 PM
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question... this Climb On bar... apply before/during, or after climbing?
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veritasmmv
Jan 3, 2005, 11:40 PM
Post #13 of 16
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question... this Climb On bar... apply before/during, or after climbing?
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Jan 3, 2005, 11:48 PM
Post #14 of 16
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In reply to: question... this Climb On bar... apply before/during, or after climbing?
It's pretty greasy stuff, you'd probably want to wait 'til the end of the day. It also helps to wash the chalk off your hands before you apply it, too.
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dirtineye
Jan 3, 2005, 11:50 PM
Post #15 of 16
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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In reply to: In reply to: I would try to find something called "Climb On bar." Basically comes in a small tin, and looks like a round wax bar. It's the equivalent of chap stick for your fingers. does an amazing job with saving your callouses and easing the recovery time on the skin on your fingertips between climbs. Check on www.climbonproducts.com This is what you need. Also, try to give your hands a rest from time to time. If you let them fully recover by taking three or four (oh, the horror :shock: ) days off, your skin be tougher and healthier as a result.
Oh good grief I am in agreement with bumblie.
THe claims on the tin of Climb On read like an ad for patent medicine, but it works. It's magic. Just wash your hands before using. It lasts a longtime and is not greasy like oil based balms.
I'd use it after climbing.
It smells good too.
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veritasmmv
Jan 3, 2005, 11:56 PM
Post #16 of 16
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Registered: Oct 23, 2004
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as for this "climb on" bar... apply before/during, or after climbing?
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