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Partner hosh


Feb 14, 2005, 4:51 AM
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Yes, the day has come...
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Living in Juneau, climbing in the winter can be a little bit difficult (i.e. impossible). But, the day has finally come that the climbing season is open this year. Nick P. (my climbing partner) and I have done our first out-doors climb of the year. We led a small, 10 foot crack right off the side of the road here, about 30 miles from town. Nothing special, but neither of us could feel our fingers when we were done. Yeah, there's just some thing that makes you feel a little tougher when you're climbing outside in Alaska in Feb. I know there are a lot of alpinists who are way more core than we are, but I'm just happy that the climbing season is now officially open for 2005! Next stop, the Fritz Cove 5.10!


Hosh.


Partner csgambill


Feb 14, 2005, 4:59 AM
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All I've been able to do here in Chicago is some crappy buildering. Still cold, but the snow is almost gone.


Partner hosh


Feb 14, 2005, 5:07 AM
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Yeah, I'm feeling your pain. Must be nice to live near J-tree or something...


bandidopeco


Feb 14, 2005, 5:18 AM
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I live in tahoe, califoria, and yesterday I skined up to big chief, climbed shirtless, and skied down in perfect corn. sorry to gloat, but that's one thing that makes this place pretty sweat


Partner tattooed_climber


Feb 14, 2005, 4:50 PM
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i just got my 2005 rock in on friday.....i'm just getting massive chub thinkin more about it! :P

then again, i looked out my window and it snowed an inch last night....WTF! is was sunny and about 10C yesterday.....


hoppinbig


Feb 14, 2005, 5:25 PM
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We led a small, 10 foot crack right off the side of the road here, about 30 miles from town.

How many pieces did you place?


Partner j_ung


Feb 14, 2005, 5:29 PM
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Other than a few cold weeks in January, I've been climbing in short sleeves all winter long. It was sunny and sixty at Rumbling Bald Saturday, though it was a little breezy. Brrrrrr... :P


glyrocks


Feb 15, 2005, 1:12 AM
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that's the beauty of north carolina climbing. In the last month, I've done everything from FAs on ice to sport and trad routes in a t-shirt. I was too busy climbing to boulder though, even though it's the thing to do in Boone...

NC climbing kicks ass, I'm just waiting for the continental plates to shift directions so we can get some big mountains again.


Partner wormly81


Feb 15, 2005, 1:20 AM
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We led a small, 10 foot crack right off the side of the road here, about 30 miles from town.

How many pieces did you place?

Thats exactly what I was wondering :) ... I consider my first lead placing gear on an 18-22 ft boulder problem but even I'm having trouble understanding what gear is going to protect you from on a 10 foot boulder.


Partner wormly81


Feb 15, 2005, 1:20 AM
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In reply to:
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We led a small, 10 foot crack right off the side of the road here, about 30 miles from town.

How many pieces did you place?

Thats exactly what I was wondering :) ... I mean even I consider my first lead placing gear on an 18-22 ft boulder problem but even I'm having trouble understanding what gear is going to protect you from on a 10 foot boulder.


urbanfood


Feb 15, 2005, 6:35 AM
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this little ten footer is not about gear protection on the climb. it's about feeling the gear, playing with it and grabbing it from your rack and placing it, clipping the carabiner, and clipping in the rope. it's about the pure joy of placing gear....even if you couldn't feel it by the time you were done.


Partner hosh


Feb 15, 2005, 6:00 PM
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Yeah, it's a pretty sorry crack. but it's an off-width (mostly #3 camalot size) that my buddy and I aided). I don't know, maybe 3 cams and a hex? I usually solo it but it was a fun first climb of the year. Again, not impressive or anything, just fun to be out and "climging" when it's 20 degrees out...


edge


Feb 15, 2005, 6:37 PM
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but it's an off-width (mostly #3 camalot size)

Off-hands, maybe???


chronicle


Feb 15, 2005, 7:27 PM
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Yeah, it's a pretty sorry crack. but it's an off-width (mostly #3 camalot size) that my buddy and I aided). I don't know, maybe 3 cams and a hex? I usually solo it but it was a fun first climb of the year. Again, not impressive or anything, just fun to be out and "climging" when it's 20 degrees out...

The wording of this almost made my head explode.

1) 4 pieces in a 10 foot crack!?!? That's 2.5 feet apart!!!
2) You usually "solo" it?!? 10 feet isn't even considered a highball boulder problem to most people.
3) Off-width, but yet #3 camelot size?!? WTF??? Do you know what off-width is?

Ok, I'm done, just had to get that out.


Partner coldclimb


Feb 15, 2005, 8:21 PM
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In reply to:
Yeah, it's a pretty sorry crack. but it's an off-width (mostly #3 camalot size) that my buddy and I aided). I don't know, maybe 3 cams and a hex? I usually solo it but it was a fun first climb of the year. Again, not impressive or anything, just fun to be out and "climging" when it's 20 degrees out...

The wording of this almost made my head explode.

1) 4 pieces in a 10 foot crack!?!? That's 2.5 feet apart!!!
2) You usually "solo" it?!? 10 feet isn't even considered a highball boulder problem to most people.
3) Off-width, but yet #3 camelot size?!? WTF??? Do you know what off-width is?

Ok, I'm done, just had to get that out.

lol... I think there's more than just your internet rage that needs to get out. :lol: Go climb a ten foot crack yourself... I KNOW you'll feel better. ;)


Partner hosh


Feb 15, 2005, 8:22 PM
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Ok, so I'd admit that my termonology is a bit off. I consider anything that's too big for fists is off width. And I don't have a #3 Camalot, I was just firuging that that would be the size that fit. I was using a Metlius #9. The #10 Metolilus fit one place and the #10 Hex saw a few placements. To me, that's an "off" width, as in it doesn't fit my fist. And yes, I did stich that thing up. I wasn't trying to sound tough, I know that 10 feet isn't that high, it was just a cold day and they plowed the roads enough to get out the road. Sheesh! I was just excited to go climbing! Sorry that I live in a place where I can't climb year-round and I get excited when it warms up enough (2o degrees) to climb. :roll: I'm not trying to sound like I'm tough, I'm not trying to impress anyone, I'm just happy that I was pulling real rock instead of plastic, even if it was only a 10 foot aid line that I usually boulder. it's still better than climbing indoors...


chronicle


Feb 15, 2005, 10:46 PM
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At least you're outside and placing gear. Fortunately PA has been very nice this winter, with only 3-4 weeks where we didn't get out, so no cabin fever and little gym climbing.

But I would give me left one to live in Alaska (actually I would give it just to visit the state).


wetyeti


Feb 15, 2005, 11:08 PM
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just got back from three months in s america, excellent winter destination. 95 degrees in socaire, 60's in frey and yesterday was up in santa barbara, 60's and dry.


sustainedclimber


Feb 15, 2005, 11:09 PM
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Oh yeah?!?! Well the first half of the winter here in the Northeast was so crappy that I went climbing outside on New Year's day in 50 degree weather. How bout them apples?

-Josh


peggy


Feb 15, 2005, 11:09 PM
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Oh how i love living in San Diego!!!!! Sunday we were whining because it was too cold at like 55 degrees!! I DO mean to gloat! Happy snowdays to all you east coasters!


Partner hosh


Feb 16, 2005, 6:05 PM
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But I would give me left one to live in Alaska (actually I would give it just to visit the state).



Yeah, living in Alaska is pretty nice... The sunny days surely make up for the other 350 days when it rains then freezes. But man, you should see the summers we get here! If the weather's nice, you can climb all day... and the sun doesn't go down until 11:30 so you never run out of light when you're working on a project! The crags stay open later than the gym in the summer! Man, I can't wait until Summer!


Partner coldclimb


Feb 16, 2005, 8:57 PM
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[quote="hosh"]
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Man, I can't wait until Summer!

You are not alone. :cry:


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