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pushfurther
Jun 19, 2002, 7:01 PM
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OKC Rocks(my local gym) has one route per rope, no tape. It is a silo style gym, so I think this is easier to do than in the warehouse style gyms.
How does your gym set up routes?
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overlord
Jun 19, 2002, 7:16 PM
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every hold has its noumbers and the routes are written into a book with grades.
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rock_climbin_06
Jun 19, 2002, 7:35 PM
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Each rope has 3-4 routes on it. Each route has a specific color that you must follow, and attached to the anchor system there is a little card that tells the color and its rating.
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tim
Jun 19, 2002, 7:42 PM
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color coded holds suck. tape rules. Mission Cliffs and the other Touchstone gyms used tape, Planet Granite used color coded holds, and I can say with certainty that I much preferred the tape. Then again, maybe I just hated the tendon-popping holds at PG...
One route per rope is pure insanity. Who on earth would run a gym like that? (whoever tried would likely not be in business for long)
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kriso9tails
Jun 19, 2002, 8:02 PM
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Quote:One route per rope is pure insanity. Who on earth would run a gym like that? (whoever tried would likely not be in business for long)
Are you joking? That's been the set up for almost every gym I've ever been to, and some of them have been open for many years. My gym (gravity Ham. Ont.) has been open for just shy of a decade and it's still going strong. Joe Rock Head's is one of, if not the the first gym(s) in Canada, and is definitely going very strong.
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jman
Jun 19, 2002, 8:02 PM
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Each top rope has two or three routes and the routes are marked with tape. Difficulty level is noted at the start of the route. Degree of difficuty of routes over 5.10 are usually determined by consensus of people who climb the route. Lead climbing routes are also marked with tape.
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ponyryan
Jun 19, 2002, 8:04 PM
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My gym (OSU ICC) has anywhere from 1-4 courses per rope. The holds are taped off, with some cheater holds (no tape) mixed in. There is no guide book, but next to the start there is a point value assigned to the course (originally from competitions), to tell you how difficult the course is supposed to be.
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climberstephen
Jun 20, 2002, 1:35 AM
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As a route setter at several local gyms, I most definatly prefer TAPED ROUTES.
Even an experienced route-setter / climber, I still get confused with routes that are set by hold color alone. When holds get dirty, they change color. Not all colors are the same (ie. yellow, light yellow, dark yellow). Not all gyms are well lit, which makes it hard to determine the color (ie, is that blue, or green, or blue-green). When I'm tring to send a 5.12, I don't want to have to try to figure out if that color is yellow or not.
You can't confuse tape. It's either there or not. A decient gym keeps their walls up-to-date, meaning they make sure tape gets replaced when it comes off. I have found simple duct tape, when applied properly, will stay on the wall for months.
I've actually never seen a gym with one route per rope except during a compitition. It seems to me that this method would severely limit the number of routes in a gym.
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fiend
Jun 20, 2002, 3:50 PM
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I have found that gyms (and I've climbed at a few ) with just one route per rope generally have better routesetting than those with tape. Taped routes often involve too much tracking, when is the last time you did a 5.10 outside where you had to track the handholds? I know that a creative setter can set good routes either way, but I still prefer single routes.
The way I look at it is that I enjoy the movement of climbing, I don't enjoy the concept of having to hang out and look at 10 decent footholds to try and find the one with the same color tape as my climb. I like to be able to flow up a climb, glance down, spot my feet and move on, I find this much more similar to climbing outside.
Bah, I only really boulder indoors anyways
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jules
Jun 20, 2002, 6:22 PM
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I'm in agreement with Mark on this one.
I don't like seeing all of these perfectly good holds but not being able to use them because they're not the right color. I enjoy being able to be creative and use whatever's there however I want to; precisely why I like outdoor climbing, there are usually several different ways you can accomplish what you're trying to do, rather than a straightforward "USE THIS HOLD".
I have trouble finding the holds and have to ask my belayer/spotter "Where the ... am I going?!?!?" (Whether I get an answer or not, yelling usually helps me find it )
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dren
Jun 20, 2002, 7:47 PM
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We have a silo gym in Texas (carrollton) 120ft most have one climb per rope but some routes have two ways up, one jutting out to the left and right. nice gym Stoneworks
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tupper-ware
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Jun 20, 2002, 8:29 PM
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my gym(of rock and chalk)has both tape and coloured holds. we have about three routs for one rope, and we mainly use tap for the 5.13& 5.12.
keep climbing.
later.
cheers.
~nat
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spike_in_milton
Jun 20, 2002, 8:35 PM
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Yep, one route, one set of holds is the way to go. I don't want to waste time and energy reaching for a hold just to pause in mid-move to think "oh crap, can I use that one??..." If enough forethought is put into which colours are beside each other there isn't much confusion, even when the holds get dirty.
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squirrelgirl
Jun 20, 2002, 8:48 PM
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The walls at the TCCC(Tri-City Court Club) are set up so one rope goes to mutltiple routes which are taped off. The ratings are stated at the bottom(i.e. all holds: 5.6, green tape: 5.9, etc.). One problem with the tape is that it peels off and pretty soon the taped routes are ridiculously difficult. Oh, well. Life goes on.
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dsafanda
Jun 20, 2002, 8:52 PM
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re. "I don't want to waste time and energy reaching for a hold just to pause in mid-move to think "oh crap, can I use that one??."
For what it is worth...I respectively disagree.
That kind of thought process that you don't like is actually fantastic training for the viual memory you will need on real rock. Climbing is all about the marriage of your eyes and your brain. You're never going to climb well if you simply flail at every possible hold you can reach. Paying attention to what color holds you are on trains your climbing brain very effectively. There is nothing wrong with pausing a brief second to search for the green taped hold. On real rock you should be studying the route in a very similar manner.
Besides...one route for each rope gives such a small number of climbs. Thank god none of the Touchstone gyms set routes that way.
http://www.touchstoneclimbing.com/tours_iw_lead.html
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bart
Jun 20, 2002, 9:12 PM
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In my country (Belgium) there isn't even one gym with the tape-system, I even think it only exists in America. Here a route exists of one particular colour and mostly there are more than one on one rope. In some gyms (mostly boulder rooms) every colour has its own grades, in other the grade (and sometimes also the maker of the route, the date it was set and which rope you should use) is mentioned on a paper hanging on the first hold.
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bart
Jun 20, 2002, 9:17 PM
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I have never had problems to see if a hold had the right colour, only for small, old footholds (rarely). But I know someone who is colourblind and for him it's a bigger problem.
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dizzy
Jun 20, 2002, 10:09 PM
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Hello,
The gym i use often uses a mix of either coloured tags or tape. They have however just built an extension to the gym and as yet there is only one route per rope on this new bit. It was only until i started climbing on the new bit with the single routes that my climbing really started to improve. I was forced to alter my technique to match the level of difficulty on the harder routes and eventually i mastered them. Whereas on the multi route ropes all i could see was a wall full of holds of various types. Looking out specific coloured tags (many of which are unclear or arent visible) will not improve my climbing, only maybe will it improve my staminar due to hanging so long.
My 2 cents, or pennies depending on which side of the pond you are.
Dizzy.
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codey
Jun 20, 2002, 10:29 PM
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My gym is like nat's.
Codey
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doosh
Jun 21, 2002, 2:55 AM
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Current Poll
doosh
Sport Climber
,
Q-Rating: 5.00/10
Posts: 47 Posted: 2002-06-20 15:10
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I was looking for the option where no ropes are used and the moves are really hard and often mulitple moves are linked together to form power endurance nightmares...
I think this is called boldering or something.
Anyway, just wanted to vote for: Leave your rope at home and climb 50 move problems anyways, but I didn't see the option.
I guess some people just don't think outside that little box.
MMMMMmmmmmm.... box.....
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clymber
Red Point Maniac
northeast, New Jersey
Q-Rating: 9.95/10
Posts: 194 Posted: 2002-06-20 15:51
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wouldnt that be soloing
doosh
Sport Climber
,
Q-Rating: 5.00/10
Posts: 47 Posted: 2002-06-20 15:57
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Not if you stay below the red line!
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juliana
Resident Hardman
Hopkinton, New Hampshire
Q-Rating: 9.32/10
Posts: 948 Posted: 2002-06-20 18:14
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There's already a thread about this started here.
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sidepull
Jun 21, 2002, 9:01 PM
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I can't believe so many people are complaining about colored holds versus tape. Either way you should generally be able to stand at the bottom of an indoor route and visualize the sequence. If you're finding yourself halfway up a route and wondering what to grab -- what's on -- then you didn't take enough time to concentrate at the bottom.
Also, I agree with Juliana, I'd much rather create/find boulder problems that focus on my weaknesses if I'm going to be climbing indoor. However, I'm biased because there's so much quality rock around.
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rockjock04
Jun 22, 2002, 10:14 PM
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I personally find it easier to find the motivation when there is one route per rope. I find that If Im challenging myself on a route, and there are easier holds that dont belong to the route I'm on, I find myself easily giving up and reaching for those. However, when there is one set of holds and I can use any one I want. It is easier for me because I know I'm going to the top and not coming down until I do so.
Just like on real rock, there is nothing to say you can only use the jugs or the crimpers. Go your style.
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torvum
Jun 24, 2002, 6:28 PM
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I climb here in ontario canada at a place called Rock Oasis. They have a route set up for every rope. Each route is graded and colour coded.
And, routes never cross, so you don't have to worry about getting in other peoples way. Its a great set up, if you ask me.
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missedyno
Jun 26, 2002, 12:08 PM
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i too climb at rock oasis, and the other gym i sometimes climb at has one route per rope.
i personally prefer this. sure taped routes will result in more routes per gym, but tracking takes some of the fun out, and it never seems to be the same quality route setting.
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harleyd97_2000
Jun 26, 2002, 12:40 PM
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My gym (Vertical Adventures) has a few routes per rope with a few identified by tape for a challange. But not just one set route per rope.
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