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chalkboy217
Feb 25, 2005, 7:41 PM
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I've only been climbing for about 4 months now, maybe once or twice a week, mix of indoors and outdoors.
I've lead 5.9 (oustide), TR 5.10 (inside), and bouldered V4's and came very close to flashing a V5 (indoors).
My question is, am I progressing above/below average pace?
I hope to be climbing 5.12/V6 by the end of this summer, about 6 months from now, and i plan to climb atleast 3 times per week.
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to reach this goal? Thanks
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keinangst
Feb 25, 2005, 7:50 PM
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/Gets marshmallows, sits back to watch
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dingus
Feb 25, 2005, 7:53 PM
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Yes, entirely possible. You are tracking perfectly.
Climb on.
DMT
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clmbr121
Feb 25, 2005, 7:56 PM
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If its any kind of gauge, I wasn't climbing anywhere near that intensity when I started...I was just getting to onsight v3s after about a year, sport leading 5.11 (very different that trad leading) after about 2 and that was with climbing just about 5-6 days a week.
Grade-wise? You could possibly hit your goal. But I would suggest that you take some time to make sure that you are learning the other skills that go along with climbing, such as proper cleaning, leave no trace, anchor placement, etc. (I don't mean to assume that you arenn't learning these things).
Having the physical strength to climb at that grade is one thing; having the mental fortitude to do so is something different entirely.
Enjoy the journey.
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chalkboy217
Feb 25, 2005, 8:08 PM
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thanks for the quick replies
as for physical strength, i dont think i have much to worry about...i'll get a little stronger with time, for now i think im fine
as for the mental part...ha ha, i guess thats the main thing that seperates the men from the boys. that along with technique, which i need to improve on alot
i have a friend with a full rack who is teaching me about placements and all that good stuff. btw, the lead was a sport lead, i tried a trad lead and got a little spooked (supposed i've been reading too many horror stories. watching vertical limit didnt help either)
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kdchampion
Feb 25, 2005, 8:21 PM
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Hey,
I think that even if you didn't gain strength, but your technique improved you could reach your goal. Strength and endurance is important, but if you don't have technique you will never make it up the wall on a harder route, becuase you'll just tire yourself out. Keep going though, you're definitely doing well.
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trenchdigger
Feb 25, 2005, 8:36 PM
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Ya know, it's funny... After I'd been climbing for 4 months, I was TR-ing 5.10s outside and bouldering around V3 too.
Now - two years later - not much is different. When people ask, I still only do 5.10s outside and boulder V3. Interestingly enough, my climbing has improved immensely over that time. So will yours. :idea:
Congrats on your success, have fun, keep cranking, and as always, be safe.
~Adam~
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iclimbtoo
Feb 25, 2005, 8:40 PM
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Sounds like you're doing pretty well. I'm baking some cookies right now...
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simplesoul
Feb 25, 2005, 8:43 PM
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[Grade-wise? You could possibly hit your goal. But I would suggest that you take some time to make sure that you are learning the other skills that go along with climbing, such as proper cleaning, leave no trace, anchor placement, etc. (I don't mean to assume that you arenn't learning these things). ]
clmbr121 hit it on the noes....You will get stronger and thats a plus but you must learn to respect nature and the rock (not saying you havent learned that) because that will benifit you more in the long run.
enjoy....
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lucas_timmer
Feb 25, 2005, 8:54 PM
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That's actually a fantastic progression.
Some people train years to climb 5.10 and you climb it in 4 months !!!
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pjcozzi
Feb 25, 2005, 9:07 PM
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In reply to: I've lead 5.9 (oustide), TR 5.10 (inside), and bouldered V4's and came very close to flashing a V5 (indoors).
These are very impressive grades for 4 months of climbing, especially bouldering V4. As far as progression though, do you remember what grades you were climbing when you first started?
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chalkboy217
Feb 25, 2005, 9:14 PM
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In reply to: These are very impressive grades for 4 months of climbing, especially bouldering V4. As far as progression though, do you remember what grades you were climbing when you first started?
i remember not being able to climb V2 back in December.
Also, I remember not being able to top out a 5.9 TR at the same time.
The V4s I climbed were at an ABS comp
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screamer
Feb 25, 2005, 9:15 PM
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Cookies, i want some....
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pumpout2004
Feb 25, 2005, 9:49 PM
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When i came back from breaking my leg i went from barely sending 10's to being able to send 12's in a mere 3 months and that is climbing 3 days a week. Therefor i would say your goal is very obtainable. Good luck and remember, climbing isn't about the numbers, its about the fun!!!!!
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dynosore
Feb 25, 2005, 9:52 PM
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So you want to be climbing 5.12 within 10 months of starting climbing? That's pretty ambitious. I just made 5.10 after a little over a year.
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csgambill
Feb 25, 2005, 10:02 PM
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It's definitely an impressive progression rate. I think many people don't progress as quickly as they could because they don't push themselves enough. I've got some friends who have been climbing only a few months and are TRing 5.10's, not clean but they're definitely doing well. It's all a matter of pushing yourself and trying if not succeeding from harder and harder routes. If you don't succeed on something you should at least learn something from it, or try to get one move further than you did the prior attempt. Keep up the good work lift some weights, do some conditioning, push yourself and learn from your mistakes and soon you'll be climbing those 5.12's Rock on Bro! You should be able to achieve your goals.
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chronicle
Feb 25, 2005, 10:57 PM
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The progression sounds very similar to the way mine went. Not to be condescending or anything, but V5 indoors is very different than outdoors. I was sending V4-V5 in the gym, went to a comp outside, and was struggling on V2-V3s.
So if you are chasing numbers, just be prepared to see a drop-off if you are transitioning from mostly gym climbing to outdoor climbing. Also, grades will feel stiffer/softer in different areas. One place you may send a V6, go to another area and flail on a V3.
Just remember, there is more than just grades. Have fun.
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studiggity
Feb 25, 2005, 11:26 PM
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I think you should focus on pushing yourself and not so much on the grades you send. I have no idea when but you will most likely reach a point where you get stuck on a particular grade. I've done it, my friends have done it, everyone seems to do it. Your climbing may improve dramatically while you are stuck at that grade but that mythical V5, V7, V12, or whatever may be out of your reach. My point is that if you get too caught up on why you can't race past V5s like you did V4s then that could really hurt your training. Climbing has a giant mental component that goes beyond just sacking up for a move and getting too fixated on the grade can wreck that. Just focus on climbing as hard as you possibly can and the numbers will come eventually.
... Or maybe I am just bitter because I rocketed up to V5 in 4 months, climbed V6 after 9 months, and have been unable to tick a V7 after a year and a half. That said I am a hell of a lot stronger than I was 6 months ago.
Shrug,
Stuart
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pawilkes
Feb 26, 2005, 12:10 AM
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to the original poster, how old are you? teenagers definately have an advantage over older folks (20 and above) b/c they are generally more physically active and have more time to commit to climbing amongst other things. anyhow, i've know a few teens who have shot up in ability really quick. just have fun. if you want to climb a grade so be it but don't be to obsessed with it. the majority of strong climbers i know (mid-.12 and up) don't really talk about their grades all that much, they talk about how cool a move/climb is because that is really what its about. good luck
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andrewbanandrew
Feb 26, 2005, 1:13 AM
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I think with anything, grades and goals are good, but in moderation. As long as you're having fun hitting higher grades, more power to you, but if it ever becomes more about the numbers than the climbing...
I never really tracked my progress, but I started climbing last October in the gym, and I'm at the same sort of TR 5.10d/boulder V4 spot. I don't think I ever consciously though "hey I can climb 5.10" until someone posted in this forum about their first 5.10.
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kpj240789
Feb 26, 2005, 1:59 AM
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Possible not probable but you may be exceptionally good.
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pylonhead
Feb 26, 2005, 2:39 AM
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What kind of cookies?
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chalkboy217
Feb 26, 2005, 3:49 PM
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Im 19. Thanks for all the advice guys. I work out 3+ times a week (not including climbing) Im 5'9 150, if that helps. I'd consider myself above average strength.
I had always figured that gym would be alot different than outdoors in terms of grades, but its not exactly the GRADE i want to achieve, its that i want to possess the ABILITY to climb those grades. So basically, i want to be able to hang with the big boys when i hit the gym or local craig.
thanks again for your kind words :D
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mistertyler
Feb 26, 2005, 4:45 PM
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Don't forget to learn how to climb safely.
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rockclimbingcarl
Feb 26, 2005, 5:50 PM
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in one full week of climbing every single day i went from doing solid 5.7's to doing a double crux 5.11c outdoors in the west. so incredible climbing feats are surely able to be done.
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