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arjunrattan
Feb 14, 2005, 3:32 AM
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so i just bought the book.. and went through the first 2 chapters.. seems like this might be the best thing that evvvver happened to my climbing. it sooo helped me identify my weaknessses acurately..which should enable me to work on them..
if you have used/trained with the principles in the book, i would like to hear your experiences..and success stories..
cheers,
arjun
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phaedrus
Feb 14, 2005, 6:48 PM
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phaedrus moved this thread from Bouldering to Technique & Training.
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nthusiastj
Feb 14, 2005, 7:08 PM
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I read the book about a year ago. I think it helped me alot and gave me goods training ideas. I can't really say I've been "training" much. But I do use some of the principles in the book and have progressed alot in the last year.
I'm positive that if you really train according to the book that you will see a huge jump in grades.
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tyson16v
Feb 14, 2005, 7:09 PM
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that is a great book. if you have never really done any type of training (for climbing), or just didnt know how, then this is a wonderful starting point. you will notice huge gains. just realize that after a while you will need more. and you will want to switch up your work outs. there are a few other books that will give you lots of information as well as this site and others. try planetfear.com and look under neil greshams training stuff. it is good too. once you start looking, training stuff tends to just jump out at you. the best thing i have found is, trial and error. what works for some people doesnt work for everybody. try different things, give yourself time to just try work outs with out a set schedule. your workouts will take a while to dial in and make it your own. then share your knowledge with others and the circle keeps going. this is the approach that has worked for me. sorry if this answer is a little off topic.
have fun.
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johnhennings
Feb 14, 2005, 7:32 PM
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I picked up Horst's books when I was a beginning climber. Since then, I have used information from his and other authors' work to improve my climbing and training. I am not going to say that any of these books offer bad information, but one thing that I have noticed is that a lot of climbers read these books and become "tech weenies." I admit that I was once one of these people. Use these books as useful refrences, but above all, go out and climb, and have a damn good time doing it! :D
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tyson16v
Feb 14, 2005, 7:36 PM
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In reply to: ......... a lot of climbers read these books and become "tech weenies."........Use these books as useful refrences, but above all, go out and climb, and have a damn good time doing it! :D |
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duckwalk
Feb 14, 2005, 8:01 PM
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I have used the interval training method 4-3-2-1 cycle. I was able to get in one full interval cycle before christmas and I will finish one right before spring break ( trip time ). I have been outside a few times recently and had noticable gains in climbing performance, even with less technique ( the winter doesn't do wonders for that ). I would recommend this for intermediate climbers looking for a little boost.
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fishbelly
Feb 16, 2005, 2:52 PM
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I have used Erics training methods since the mid 80s with great results. As a companion book find Performance Rock Climbing by Goddard & Neumann.
Where Eric is very concise and anlytical they approach it from the tactical on the rock side of training.
Both books address climbing well. Spend time "mileage" on routes a grade or so below your hi point. Reinforce the good.
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fishbelly
Feb 16, 2005, 2:53 PM
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I have used Erics training methods since the mid 80s with great results. As a companion book find Performance Rock Climbing by Goddard & Neumann.
Where Eric is very concise and anlytical they approach it from the tactical on the rock side of training.
Both books address climbing well. Spend time "mileage" on routes a grade or so below your hi point. Reinforce the good.
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billcoe_
Mar 12, 2005, 5:28 PM
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In reply to: I have used Erics training methods since the mid 80s with great results. As a companion book find Performance Rock Climbing by Goddard & Neumann. Where Eric is very concise and anlytical they approach it from the tactical on the rock side of training. Both books address climbing well. Spend time "mileage" on routes a grade or so below your hi point. Reinforce the good.
In reply to: I have used Erics training methods since the mid 80s with great results. As a companion book find Performance Rock Climbing by Goddard & Neumann. Where Eric is very concise and anlytical they approach it from the tactical on the rock side of training. Both books address climbing well. Spend time "mileage" on routes a grade or so below your hi point. Reinforce the good.
Fishbelly, anything worth saying once is certainly worth saying twice?:lol:
Bill :lol:
BTW, to johnhennings, the guy who said just go out and climb....I think thats on page 59 of the book isn't it? :lol: :lol:
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daisuke
Mar 12, 2005, 7:28 PM
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very good, very useful book
Unfortunately since I bought it I haven't had the chance to really use it because of one thing or another. But it even has some pretty good tips for life in general.
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tammarak
Mar 12, 2005, 7:59 PM
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I too got the book when I was a new climber. It was helpful and inspiring, but only up to a point, for me anyway. They say people generally come from two camps. Those who view their climbing as a science and those that view it as an art. This book is very much a scientific approach. I tend to approach climbing a little less objectively so I found a lot of his approach to be too specific. Everybody needs to find what works best, and the book is a good resource.
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hyongx
Mar 13, 2005, 8:04 PM
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i found that horst focused a whole lot on sport specific training. i tried to do more of this, but the limited availability of stuff at my house ( a 2x4 wall mounted pull up bar, 1 25lb weight and 2 11lb weights) limited me to a lot of pullups, forearm broomstick rolls, and pushups and crunches, among other body resistance exercises.
i had trouble staying motivated to work out because it was so repetitive because of the limited amoutn of stuff i could do at my house ( i can generally make it to the climbing wall once-twice a week).
i started working out recently at a weight room/gym place, and ive found that the great variety of things to do with machines has made working out a lot more interesting. even if some of the muscles may not be 100% useful for climbing (even though im doing all upper body: biceps triceps shoulders lats back abs and chest) its definitely a lot better than not working out because im bored with it.
so horst's book is good guidance, but shouldnt be taken as the only way or neccessarily the best way for you. find your own path.
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theclimbinglab
Mar 13, 2005, 9:01 PM
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The Horst book is pretty good if you are new to training, but the Goddard et al one is more sport science based.
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kermitzclimber
Mar 16, 2005, 8:34 PM
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I am looking for good training methods to get stronger..
Seems like a great book, may have to pick it up.
Thanks for the suggestion.
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