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macc
Jun 24, 2002, 5:16 PM
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I guess there's no substitute for mileage, but are there any hints on picking a route up the wall? I try to figure out the best way from the ground, but by the time I'm half-way up I'm all out of options (and burning energy trying to reach a better route).
Apologies if this is a dumb question, but I'm a total newbie....
Cheers,
macc
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bmgard
Jun 24, 2002, 6:57 PM
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It depends on the route. Sport climbs you can many times just follow the bolts and chalk. I'd say buy a guide book so that you can review the topo. Don't be afraid to ask around. I've spend a lot of time at the bottom of climbs discusing the route with both friends and strangers. If you can find someone that has climbed the route before they can be a wealth of information.
Of course sometimes half the fun is trying to figure it out on your own.
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beyond_gravity
Jun 25, 2002, 3:05 AM
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unless your trying to onsite the route, ask around! sometimes if it's a hard route people will rap down and cheak out all the moves and link them together. I take it that your new to climbing, and lots of times beginers start on slabs. Rememeber your not vertical, and you can hang onto stuff smaller then you think you could. The mind can be horrible somtimes. It takes a while, but you'll get there
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otter
Jun 26, 2002, 11:19 PM
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Registered: Jun 11, 2002
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I will assume toproping here. And if that is the case...just take a rest when you get stuck...lean back and have your belayer take up rope and lock you in place...while you just take a moment to catch your breath and look around. If you are new or just chalenging yourself with harder stuff.. this is a great way to relax and get focuused again...I am always amazed at how things open up when I take some time to do this on a rout that is really start to tweak with my brain. I see very advanced climbers do this also when they are pushing themselves above there limit or workingon new techniques. Try it and see if it helps. Also don't be afraid to down climb to try another go...maybe you used a foot hold withthe wrong foot and just switching things around and aproaching again in a slightly different way will open things up for you.
Happy Climbing!
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duskerhu
Jun 27, 2002, 9:02 AM
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Hey David, Welcome to the vertical world!
There are generally guide books for just about all popular crags throughout North America; I would suggest trying to find one for your "local" area. Even with the guide book, route finding can be an adventure, but as some of the others have said, talking to the other climbers in the area or at the crag can really help.
Good luck and have fun!
Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!
duskerhu
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orestes1724
Jul 1, 2002, 12:19 AM
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Registered: Sep 2, 2001
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Ask around, if it looks like a good route, why not try it? If you get to a touch spot that you just cant get, just try again some other time. Its okay to bail if you cant stick it, nobody is going to mind.
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pbcowboy77
Jul 2, 2002, 5:12 AM
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Registered: Jun 9, 2002
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If it's an easy route and you find yourself trying a move thats way too hard, rember theres probally an easier move. I'll make a 5.8 into a 5.10c all the time.\
Climb safe and don't drive angry
-Zac
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jdean
Jul 2, 2002, 11:23 AM
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Registered: Oct 29, 2001
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Try to read the route from rest to rest. First you look at it and say "Hmmm, I can shake out on that hold (or maybe even find a nice ledge for a no hander), so how do I get there?", then read the route up to it. Snag beta from experienced climbers. Once you have milked the reading for all it's worth, climb until you get to the part you couldn't read from the ground. A lot of the time, there will be a hidden hold you couldn't see until you actually get to it. If it's still not there, don't be afraid to try something. If you don't make it, whip, come down, snag more beta. This is something I still have trouble with, but if you break the climb into sections, it makes it a lot easier. I hope this helps.
M@
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ggraham
Jul 5, 2002, 1:28 AM
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Registered: Mar 20, 2002
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Try this link.....
http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/training/articles/mental/routereading.html
or go to my training link site.
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