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knots and anchors
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theflyingsquirrel


Mar 21, 2005, 2:02 AM
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knots and anchors
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i was wondering which would be the best way to make an anchor using a 10ft long piece of 1 inch webbing say anchoring it to tree. im mainly wondering which type of knot i should use. im also not very knot savy so the name of the knot and a picture would really help or point me in the direction of where to find a picture and or instructions how to tie it.


ryan112ryan


Mar 21, 2005, 2:16 AM
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Re: knots and anchors [In reply to]
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FIRST OFF, GENRAL DISCLAIMER, MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING AND IF NOT GO OUT WITH SOMEONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING.

now thats out of the way, check these out, they are good resources

http://www.chauvinguides.com/Anchoring.PDF

and

http://www.uoregon.edu/...ng/anch/anchors.html

those two will show you some of the genral concepts, but every anchor needs to be assesed indavidualy. also use the search in the forum, there is alotta good info on this site, and also check out the FAQ in this forum at the top :)

be smart and safe

-ryan


theflyingsquirrel


Mar 21, 2005, 2:27 AM
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Re: knots and anchors [In reply to]
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sweet someone who cares! but ya your totally right as far as the whole be safe and know what your doing thing. i was gonna practice at ground level tying to a tree etc. and then ask the instuctor at the gym if what i did was up to snuff. i've been a gym rat for way to damn long!


ryan112ryan


Mar 21, 2005, 3:00 AM
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Re: knots and anchors [In reply to]
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In reply to:
sweet someone who cares! but ya your totally right as far as the whole be safe and know what your doing thing. i was gonna practice at ground level tying to a tree etc. and then ask the instuctor at the gym if what i did was up to snuff. i've been a gym rat for way to damn long!

better yet, ask that guy to go out with ya, or take a class, where you go climbing it may be more involved than slinging a tree, you will need to judge the integity of bolts, trees, the ledge, you may need to extend your anchor (so 10 feet of webbing isn't going to cut it, in fact it woln't be good for most anchors, you'll need some more) there are so many aspects that are either hard to explain in words or imposible, get someone to go on your first few outdoor trips with you please.

i also just found this knot reference:

http://www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/...n_climbing_knots.asp

and the FAQ

http://www.rockclimbing.com/....php?p=833015#833015


tradrenn


Mar 21, 2005, 3:19 AM
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Re: knots and anchors [In reply to]
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You may also get a book "Knots for climbers" by Craig Luebben and practise them at home etc.
Just to give you an example I used to have 50 meters of 1 inch tape for setting my top rope anchors, now I have 10 meters long cordolette and use trad gear but that's different story.

10 feet is way not enough, you should always have a back-up.


tanner


Mar 21, 2005, 4:16 AM
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Re: knots and anchors [In reply to]
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The stongest webbing ancher on a tree is called a wrap 3 pull 2.

To try this you simply wrap the webbing around the tree 3 times tie the ends together w/ a water knot pull 2 of the non-knoted strands and clip them. The knot should be against the tree on the same side as the direction of load.

Easyer and faster but less strong in the basket sling. tie a loop out of the webbing wrap it around the tree and clip both ends (not a Girth hitch)
good luck


blouderk2


Mar 21, 2005, 5:10 AM
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Re: knots and anchors [In reply to]
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I suggest you take a climbing class that teaches you basic anchor building and knots.


jimdavis


Mar 22, 2005, 6:34 AM
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Re: knots and anchors [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I suggest you take a climbing class that teaches you basic anchor building and knots.

Or learn in person from someone who's been doing it long enough to not kill themselves.

10 feet of webbing sound like it's probably too short. Unless you have a skinny tree, really close to the edge...and you want BFT's. Big F'in Tree's.

Jim


bmxer


Mar 24, 2005, 3:36 AM
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Re: knots and anchors [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I suggest you take a climbing class that teaches you basic anchor building and knots.

Or learn in person from someone who's been doing it long enough to not kill themselves.

10 feet of webbing sound like it's probably too short. Unless you have a skinny tree, really close to the edge...and you want BFT's. Big F'in Tree's.

Jim

say you did have a Big F-ing tree. And long enough webbing. Is it wrong to make a single point anchor around the tree if you know it's bomber?

In John Long's Anchors he says to use girth-hitches.
In The Mountaineering Handbook by Craig Donnally he says to never use girth hitches.
What do you guys know about this?


rockin_the_dawgs


Mar 24, 2005, 3:43 AM
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A class would probably be best, because you are clearly to wussy to pull this off now.


lovesclimbing


Mar 24, 2005, 3:46 AM
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Re: knots and anchors [In reply to]
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If you are spilting hairs into which book you should follow and its not for a test (ie, rock guide) I would say that you are reading to much into it. Do a search on the computer for the most failures and stay away from that. Also the next day that you are messing around at the crag/hills/walls test what you have read, not 300m up the face of yam but somewhere where you wont get hurt or killed and find what best suites you. As someone else said take out someone more experanced and watch them but remember that they are only one person. I myself just practiced and found what I liked the best. Just do it safely.


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