|
midwestishell
Mar 25, 2005, 9:28 PM
Post #1 of 38
(6222 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 147
|
Yo-
A buddy of mine and I will be going to El Potrero in a few weeks. Other than wearing a brain bucket is their any other essential knowledge that we should be aware of? I have been doing some poking around on the web looking for info but haven't turned up much useful info.
Peace.
Th
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Mar 25, 2005, 10:05 PM
Post #2 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
A helmet is great advice there. I witnessed a lot of rockfall. There are multipitch routes that take off above popular cragging areas creating a rockfall hazard.
Make Tuesdays your rest day and hit the market in town. It's a real cultural experience and as a climber you will stick out like a sore thumb. That's allright though because the locals in general are real cool and intrigued by climbers. In fact, in the town hall there is some local elementary school artwork on display which depicts climbers scaling the massive cliffs of Potrero Chico.
I found no reason to ever cook for myself there. Between Checos and Posada you can get awesome food for mere pocket change. We ate the food and didn't drink tap water and none of my group of 8 on the trip got sick.
If you like good beer then Potrero is not your place. Carta Blanca (which seems to sponsor the entire state of Nueva Leon) is everywhere and for me was hard to drink. It was cheap though which for some adds some consolation to the aftertaste.
Tami's is a cool little spot. Aside from selling guidebooks, she has coffee, hot chocolate and whatever pasteries she can get her hands on. She also has computers with high-speed internet. She is way-cool and has some great stories about her years at the Potrero.
All in all, Potrero Chico is an amazing place. I had one of my best climbing trips ever there. There is endless well-bolted climbing on great rock. Have a blast!
|
|
|
|
|
rockhound71
Mar 25, 2005, 10:41 PM
Post #3 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2002
Posts: 225
|
I just returned from there and agree totally with crackmd. One thing to add, becareful where you step when you are on the routes. I introduced myself to a 6 inch long, 1 inch wide, orange centipede on one of the routes and was bitten on the foot. No big deal, my foot swelled up a little bit and was back to normal that afternoon. But there are a few more serious things to watch out for: tarantulas, scorpions, rattlers.
Have a blast!!!
|
|
|
|
|
jasonkester
Mar 25, 2005, 10:49 PM
Post #4 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 9
|
In reply to: There is endless well-bolted climbing on great rock
That should read "There is endless __ climbing __ on __ rock". In my experience, the rock there is terrible. Basically, the worst that limestone has to offer. Great rock does not routinely fall on you. Be wary of any area where the number one piece of advice is "Bring a Helmet!"
There certainly is a lot of it though.
Jason
http://www.jasonkester.com/
|
|
|
|
|
rockhound71
Mar 25, 2005, 10:53 PM
Post #5 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2002
Posts: 225
|
I didn't think the rock was that bad. I did encounter some loose blocks the size of microwaves on Spaceboyz (last pitch), but as long as you test the rock before you crank on it, and pull down and not out, you'll be OK.
|
|
|
|
|
d.ben
Deleted
Mar 25, 2005, 11:20 PM
Post #6 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
eat at checos,
drink Indio,
Don't drink the water.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Mar 25, 2005, 11:30 PM
Post #7 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
hey y'all, I don't know WHERE this "don't drink the water" stuff came from. Usually, U.S. tourists in Mexico are warned against drinking the wsater in places such as Mexico City, which is good advice in an ultra populated and polluted city.
However, all the water in the campgrounds at the Potrero is fresh spring water straight from the mountains. I have spent three seasons down there, drinking the water regularly, and never had any problem. The water in Hidalgo may not be that great, but you should be perfectly fine at the campgrounds.
As for other stuff to watch out for, be careful of being below any other parties. I actually had a guy rapping above me on Timewave Zero whose rope knocked a rattlesnake loose, which dropped right into my lap.
|
|
|
|
|
midwestishell
Mar 25, 2005, 11:31 PM
Post #8 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 147
|
This info is heling a ton. Keep it coming.
Can I also add one more question. What are the best routes in the 10-11 range that you have climbed? I assume the ratings will stack up pretty close to what you expected here in the states.
Th
|
|
|
|
|
momar
Mar 25, 2005, 11:34 PM
Post #9 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2003
Posts: 23
|
Actually if you are staying at posada campground you can drink the tap water. Apparently it comes from a spring from in the the petrero, I have aklso heard that all the campgrounds and residental in the section get water from the same place. In the town I wouldn't reccomend it becuase it think its water comes from a source in Monterrey. Not 100% sure aboutt he town water but just having been there for like three weeks this winter me and my friend drank the water the whole time and never got sick.
|
|
|
|
|
elpollo
Mar 26, 2005, 12:42 AM
Post #10 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 32
|
Indio beer rules! 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
michaelmcguinn
Mar 26, 2005, 12:50 AM
Post #11 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 157
|
Most of the info is good. Were a helmet and have a good time. It is some much fun there that I stay for a month every winter. The loose rock is up higher on multi-pitch routes. There are a bunch of great routes. The ratings are vacation grade so u might be climbing a little harder down there. Eat at the resturants, Awesome. It is going to be warm so find the shade.
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Mar 26, 2005, 12:54 AM
Post #12 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
Pangea (11d) rules. There are a bunch of good 5.11s on Mota Wall. I did some killer 5.10s in Virgin Canyon. My favorite route of the trip was Fear of Flying (12a), but I did so many awesome lines.
Cmon guys, Indio Beer. That stuff was swill as was Carta Blanca. My only complaint about Potrero Chico was the terrible beer.
|
|
|
|
|
phaedrus
Mar 26, 2005, 1:38 AM
Post #13 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 3046
|
phaedrus moved this thread from General to International.
|
|
|
|
|
hillbilly
Mar 26, 2005, 1:55 AM
Post #14 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 4, 2005
Posts: 43
|
Howdy, stay at checo's catina and casitas. Good food cold beer hot shower nice guy. If it's windy a bucket will probably not protect you much from missles logging 1000 ft free fall. Look down at the holes in the local tin topped roofing. Lotsa routes with just draws leave the rack at home. You can't get English tea there, so bring your own. The market is an adventure but food is better left to checo.
|
|
|
|
|
midwestishell
Mar 28, 2005, 3:28 PM
Post #15 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 147
|
Does anyone know if security is ever a problem at Posada or other camp areas? Climbing gear isn't cheap and we were hoping to have a rest day mid- week where it isn't on our backs.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
hendicrimpin
Mar 28, 2005, 3:47 PM
Post #16 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2001
Posts: 121
|
water's no problem. Best multipitch 11 i did was Senduro Diablo. Check out getting a room at la Pagoda - very, very clean, full kitchen, coutches, fireplaces, bathroom with a HUGE shower and so clean you don't even need shower slippers! Key tip: GO TO EL SALTO TOO!!!!! I had a friend who kept pushing for us to drive up to el salto, and it ended up being the best climbing we did on the entire trip. The local climbers are very happy to show you around, car break ins are not a problem, and, though a high clearance vehicle would be good - i made it with a 1996 honda civic coupe. Go there! Be sure to get really, really, really good directions from someone first - monterrey can confuse the hell out of you. Have a blast man.
|
|
|
|
|
cfnubbler
Mar 28, 2005, 4:03 PM
Post #17 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628
|
In reply to: Basically, the worst that limestone has to offer.
Wow, ever been to the Canadian Rockies? Or to AF when it was being actively developed? Or any number of other limestone areas for that matter?
Don't be put off by this. The rock in the Potrero is loose in places. A helmet is a very good idea. But the worst that limestone has to offer? Not even close....
-Nubbler
|
|
|
|
|
maracas
Mar 28, 2005, 4:17 PM
Post #18 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 114
|
Potrero is almost empty now, it is getting hot. You are going to have it all for yourself (and us in the weekends).
Grades are soft, at least in the 10-11 range expect two letters softer, El Salto and Huasteca are more normal grades (that is my personal view).
The loose rock is not that bad, multipitch is like that.
Gringo Disco, Motavision, Motavation, Pangea, Marklar area, Agua de Coco. Ther are lots, more than a months worth.
If you stay long go try the vertical, technical faces of Huasteca, altough a lot of people do not like it because for the most part it is not overhanging, it is vertical with small holds. It does teach a lot of technique and balance.
Try to bring a 70, there are some routes that require it (if you do not want to carry two ropes).
How are you getting down here?
|
|
|
|
|
midwestishell
Mar 28, 2005, 4:22 PM
Post #19 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 147
|
We bought air tickets to Monterrey. However, we still do not know how we are getting from the airport to the rock. If it really is going to be empty should we be VERY concerned with reservations at one of the camping spots? We tried to contact posada but haven't heard back yet.
Thanks for the good beta. It is very helpful.
Thom
|
|
|
|
|
8flood8
Mar 28, 2005, 4:32 PM
Post #20 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436
|
The water is spring water. i didn't buy water once either time i was there. the only time i ever got sick was when i moved to el paso and drank the american water.
PM me if you want to stay at the house IN the park. Food and drinks can be gotten cheaply and tastefully. i personally drank wine the whole time i was down there. 1 bottle to myself did the trick nicely in the evening breeze. March is probably the last month where you can climb all day.
Don't feel bad about taking a break between noon and 4 or 5 and i don't know what these people are talking about leaving the rack at home. i believe there are some nice 20+ pitch trad lines up there too.
it is definitely a sport climbing mecca.
bring your helmet!
|
|
|
|
|
neuroshock
Mar 28, 2005, 4:52 PM
Post #22 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 680
|
In reply to: Other than wearing a brain bucket is their any other essential knowledge that we should be aware of?
a few years ago, back at the pavillion (ya know, the one with the logo of Sol beer on the roof), a decent sized piece broke off and punched through the corrugated steel roof and left a crater in the concrete floor.
different year, but also a while ago, the other half of the group i was in was coming down a trail, heard "rock roCK ROCK ROOCK!" yelled, and a block the size of a small refrigerator landed right on the same trail downhill from them.
|
|
|
|
|
wearyourtruth
Mar 28, 2005, 5:03 PM
Post #23 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 16, 2004
Posts: 123
|
In reply to: We bought air tickets to Monterrey. However, we still do not know how we are getting from the airport to the rock. If it really is going to be empty should we be VERY concerned with reservations at one of the camping spots? We tried to contact posada but haven't heard back yet. Thanks for the good beta. It is very helpful. Thom
i was there over new years (it PACKS then) i wouldn't be too concerned with reservations at posada (that's where i stayed) they have PLENTY of tent space. only be concerned if you want one of their rooms.
the water in posada is fine to drink, can't vouch for the other places. the food in posada is wonderful too, and cheap.
i agree, save tuesday (or at least part) for market... awesome fresh food.
as for getting there from monterrey... get a taxi from the airport to the bus station (might be close enough to walk? no idea where the airport is) then buses from monterrey to hidalgo leave ALL the time. and they are really cheap too. find one of those, hop on, it'll take you to the bus station in hidalgo which is right by the town square. from there you can catch a taxi for about $3.50 that will take you straight to posada. you CAN walk, but with a bunch of gear it's a pain in the ass and if you don't know where you're going it can be much worse, if i hadn't gotten a taxi i would have been VERY lost.
as for the trip back, you can usually hitch a ride into town pretty easily (and back in the case of market) just start walking and someone will pick you up (god willing) and take you to the bus stop, the people are very friendly. from there a bus to monterrey generally leaves every half hour or so from what i can tell.
bring a helmet! 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
maracas
Mar 28, 2005, 6:30 PM
Post #24 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 114
|
Regarding transportation, if you are coming in by plane, the only way out of the airport is by franchise cabs. Expect to pay about US20-25 to downtown. From the bus station expect less than US5 to Hidalgo, and less than US8 to the campgrounds. So 20+5+5+8=38. And about 1:30 for the whole process. Ask at the taxi counter in the airport for the direct rate to Hidalgo, it might be the same ammount and you will save about 1 hour. Remember, there is a table close to where the taxi counters are (you will see them, they will yell at you, I reccomend suburban that is who our company uses) that states the areas and prices.
For the way back, ask in any of the campgrounds there is a taxi that takes climbers to the airport from Hidalgo.
No problem with reservations, Mexican holidays are over (yesterday) and foreigners are almost gone. In fact, te restaurant in the corner that some people mentioned might even by closed by the time you come down here (lack of customers).
Some casitas like Melīs from Cerro Gordo might be available too (with a little much needed pool), or the ones in La Posada.
Enjoy your trip.
|
|
|
|
|
druide
Mar 28, 2005, 7:33 PM
Post #25 of 38
(6220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 20, 2004
Posts: 5
|
I think it's gonna be really quiet at this time of year... Water and restaurant et the Posada are really good. Bring if you can a 70 meter rope.
IF you like long pitch (up to 150feet) and long route, it's paradise!
Don't desesperate if you fall on bad quality rock, there's plenty of good quality wall like Virgin Canyon, Mota Wall, Zappatista and many more...
The best route i did, Don quixote 5.11d virgin canyon, Celestial omnibus 5.12a bronco bowl (nice tuffa!)
grade are really really soft.....
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
