|
crackmd
Mar 29, 2005, 11:02 PM
Post #1 of 17
(3390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
I am going to be in Santa Fe for a week for some family stuff, but plan on getting out climbing 4 days. I was hoping some of the locals could help me formulate a ticklist of the killer crack lines within driving distance of Santa Fe. I'm looking to do the classics from easy to easy 5.12. I just love splitter/strenuous cracks of all grades. We are also going to spend a day pulling down on cobbles at El Rito (I heard it's pretty cool). Any beta would be greatly appreciated.
|
|
|
|
|
moonshine505
Mar 29, 2005, 11:39 PM
Post #2 of 17
(3390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2004
Posts: 148
|
Stay away from El Rito, the locals REALLY hate climbers and a few people have been killed there. There have been 2 fatalities and 2 attempted murders. It's total backwoods new mexico without a police station until Espanola. I'm serious.
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Mar 30, 2005, 1:22 AM
Post #3 of 17
(3390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
bump
|
|
|
|
|
pt
Mar 30, 2005, 2:12 AM
Post #4 of 17
(3390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 400
|
There is a small basalt area on the road up to Los Alamos called "The Y". Some short, but pretty good crack lines there. Not as classic, but similiar rock as Paradise Forks.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Mar 30, 2005, 3:43 PM
Post #6 of 17
(3390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
I guess what I want to know is, what are the must-do crack routes if one was to take a trip to the Santa Fe area. What climbs are compelling, memorable and get your blood flowing every time you think of them? If you asked me what are the must-do classics in SoCal (my homebase currently), I would tell you to get on The Vampire at Tahquitz, Insomnia at Suicide, Illusion Dweller and Equinox at Jtree, Thin Ice and Atlantis at the Needles, etc. I'm more interested in my fellow climbers' opinions than I am in being referred to route database links (although all beta is appreciated). Help me out guys.
|
|
|
|
|
leinosaur
Mar 30, 2005, 4:21 PM
Post #7 of 17
(3390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 690
|
I haven't climbed in NM yet, but I'm told there's great stuff in the sandias. As far as cracks, okieterry said on our Climber's Coalition board:
In reply to: A couple of years ago I did Mountain Mama on Torreon and "o- mamma", this climb is one of the best I've ever done. Imagine a steep almost overhanging (think drop dead and steep show type climbing) sheer wall about 600 feet tall with just a couple of crack systems.
and Terry's a bona fide crack addict, no stranger to Indian Creek or Vedauwoo. Many of our coolest cracks in OK are his FA's.
Mountain Mama sounds like a lot of fun:
http://rockclimbing.com/....php?SectionID=11303
the Texas Mountaineers website has some of the best beta I've found on the Sandias - pretty wild still, with high epic potential, sounds like. Albuquerque's only a couple hours' drive from Santa Fe, though. Let us know how it goes!
|
|
|
|
|
cchildre
Mar 30, 2005, 4:56 PM
Post #8 of 17
(3390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 671
|
El Rito- I have heard good things about but not the murders, Yikes!
Not a lot of experience in White Rock or the other crags but I will tell you this. My favorite spot in the area is Dead Cholla Wall outside of Taos. It is a bit of a drive to get to but well worth it. Basalt splitters are sweet. I have been on some granite offwidths that were cool but not much else. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=44655
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=dpp37uj.16gf1mqz&x=0&y=-hme5bu
Some shots from last fall. Check out a guidebook for some ratings, we just jumped on what looked cool but they had some nice lines. I think you might be happier at White Rock since it is closer and has more routes that you might like, check out the guides.
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Mar 30, 2005, 6:04 PM
Post #9 of 17
(3390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
In reply to: El Rito- I have heard good things about but not the murders, Yikes! Not a lot of experience in White Rock or the other crags but I will tell you this. My favorite spot in the area is Dead Cholla Wall outside of Taos. It is a bit of a drive to get to but well worth it. Basalt splitters are sweet. I have been on some granite offwidths that were cool but not much else. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=44655 Some shots from last fall. Check out a guidebook for some ratings, we just jumped on what looked cool but they had some nice lines. I think you might be happier at White Rock since it is closer and has more routes that you might like, check out the guides.[/quote] Now that's what I'm talking about. Thanks bro.
|
|
|
|
|
cavebum
Mar 30, 2005, 6:04 PM
Post #10 of 17
(3390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2005
Posts: 2
|
If you're going to be up near Santa Fe check out Diablo Canyon. Plenty of variety in the routes, easy access and on most weekends you get the added amusement of people running the wash in their 4x4's. It's really funny watching them from on the wall as they try to get un-stuck. A word of caution though, when they say the area is prone to small rock falls they mean it, so a brain bucket is a good idea.
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Mar 30, 2005, 6:08 PM
Post #11 of 17
(3390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
In reply to: If you're going to be up near Santa Fe check out Diablo Canyon. Plenty of variety in the routes, easy access and on most weekends you get the added amusement of people running the wash in their 4x4's. It's really funny watching them from on the wall as they try to get un-stuck. A word of caution though, when they say the area is prone to small rock falls they mean it, so a brain bucket is a good idea.
Thanks for the beta. Sounds cool. You'll never catch me without a brain bucket.
|
|
|
|
|
cheekymonkey
Mar 30, 2005, 6:27 PM
Post #12 of 17
(3390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2004
Posts: 6
|
Actually, the best crack climbing near Santa Fe is around Cochiti Mesa. Some good stuff in White rock canyon too, check the guide books.
|
|
|
|
|
sonso45
Apr 1, 2005, 5:44 AM
Post #13 of 17
(3390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 1, 2002
Posts: 997
|
I love the cracks at the Playground. You can't go wrong. If you have been to Paradise Forks you will enjoy this place. If you want a long day, do the Brazos. It's 2,000' of quartzite cracks and fun. I recommend Easy Ridge 5.8 for a full on day of crack at it's most fun. M
|
|
|
|
|
cliffhanger9
Moderator
Jun 29, 2006, 5:25 PM
Post #14 of 17
(3390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 2275
|
In reply to: Check out White Rock http://www.losalamos.org/climb/ http://www.losalamos.org/climb/zGUIDO.html Also Cochiti Mesa has some cracks, but it may be cold and the rock is kinda soft.
FYI - URL is now: http://lamountaineers.org/
|
|
|
|
|
lou_zer
Apr 6, 2007, 11:36 PM
Post #15 of 17
(1695 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2006
Posts: 5
|
is el rito still dangerous? The guidebooks (obviously) don't say anything about that.
I'm going to be in Santa Fe next week and was planning to climb a day or two there (sport and easy trad for my non-trad wife) and also go to diablo canyon.
Would appreciate any insights if you think it's not safe.
Thanks,
Loren
|
|
|
|
|
jcinco
Apr 7, 2007, 4:27 PM
Post #16 of 17
(1668 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 395
|
New Mexico is certainly not known for its cracks. I think the best pure crack climbs are probably on the basalt in White Rock (just below Los Alamos).
At White Rock, the Playground probably has the best concentration of pure crack climbs. There are no anchors at that crag so it is not as convenient as some other crags. One of the best cracks I've done in the area is Manic Crack at Below the Old New Place (BONP). It is rated 11+, but that rating must be from people who haven't climbed many cracks. A convenience of BONP is that there are anchors and some excellent sport climbs, Wailing Banshees and Monsterpiece Theater being the best.
The Old New Place also has some good cracks (no anchors). It is located- you guessed it- above Below the Old New Place.
In the warm months, most of these area are shaded by late afternoon.
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Apr 7, 2007, 5:39 PM
Post #17 of 17
(1659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
Wow! I'm amazed this thread has reemerged. I'd totally forgotten about it. Since I posted the original question I have climbed at the Overlook which had some good crackclimbing. Most memorable were Cholla Crack and Len's Roof. It was a real "user-friendly" crag. Anchors at the top of everything. I did like 10 routes the day I was there. Also climbed at El Rito, which although was not crackclimbing really had some great sport lines. Most memorable was everything at the Rad Wall. Those routes rivaled the best routes of the same grades at the more popular conglomerate area, Maple Canyon.
I'm excited to get back to try the Old New Place and Playground. Also Dead Cholla Wall. We will be heading to Santa Fe in Sept for the Wine and Chile Fiesta (a real fun event). Plan on hitting some of those crags then.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
