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stevematthys
Jun 28, 2002, 6:17 AM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2000
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me and my climbing buddy want to learn how to aid climb, any suggestions on good books to read or any other ways to learn how to aid climb? what are the basic items need to start aiding routes?
here is what we have between the two of us:
-2 sets of cams
-1 set of stoppers (doubled in mid sizes)
-1 set of hexes
-a few rp's
-a few tri-cams
-a bunch of tied and sown runners
-about 15 quickdraws
-a bunch of free oval biners
-1 daisy chain
-2 accenders
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rickoldskool
Jun 28, 2002, 8:07 AM
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Steve, have looked over PTPP's bigwall checklist? ULTIMATE BIGWALL CHECKLIST
The "How to rock climb" sereis has a Big Walls book by long and Middendorf. Some of the info is a little outdated, but it will get you going. There are others that I haven't read. I don't see "aiders" on your list, most critical. Browse the discussions in the AID forum. There's a ton of info.
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aid312
Jun 28, 2002, 11:49 AM
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Registered: May 22, 2002
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Steve, Your best bet would be to hang out in some of the Aid forums on this site. There are many very knowledgable people in there. The other thing that helped me is The Video Guide To Aid Climbing. I always find it a little easier to see what ther talking about instead of reading about it. Also just ask lots of questions and I'm sure the Dr. will be around soon enough to answer them.
[ This Message was edited by: aid312 on 2002-06-28 06:00 ]
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radistrad
Jun 28, 2002, 1:26 PM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2002
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Steve,
sounds like you have the gear, I say go out and give it a go!
The John Long book is ok, it will teach you the basics!
I assume that you know how to place pro, so get you aiders and daisys and head out to a good crack with great pro and go for it. Its really straight forward to get started, its the hauling and set ups that can get tricky!
good luck
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wigglestick
Jun 28, 2002, 1:53 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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Steve-After reading books and watching videos practice the techniques on top rope. I first practiced aid on Sphinx Crack in the South Platte and there is some stuff in Boulder Canyon to practice on. Welcome to the club.
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passthepitonspete
Jun 28, 2002, 3:45 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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Add to your list the following. Hunt around here and you will find out why. This stuff I am suggesting is not merely desirable, but it is absolutely imperative if you plan on Aid Climbing the better way.
Note: If you do not want to learn how to aid the better way, then you do not need to hang out here! You can join all the Big Wall Theorists in the parking lot with their old fashioned daisies.
However, if you want to become the best aid climber you can be, you will absolutely positively need the following extra items:
Two Metolius adjustable daisy chains
Two keylock 'biners for same
Two lockers for same
One Kong-Bonatti adjustable fifi hook rigged on slippery 6mm cord, and tied as shown in my teaching photo
One Grigri, which you require for cleaning
A Petzl Croll ascender to replace one of the handled ones you probably bought because you do not know the better way to jug, which is the Frog system
An elastic or strap setup to hold the Croll ascender
There is plenty more other stuff, but that is the basic personal stuff you must have in order to do this properly.
If you have that stuff, and know how to use it, you will accelerate your learning curve to the point that you may immediately outperform two-thirds of the gumbies I regularly see standing around at the base of El Cap trying to climb it using traditional technology.
My Ultimate Big Wall Checklist will show you everything else you could ever possibly need. Don't get overwhelmed by the enormity of it - buy your gear starting with the stuff above.
Don't spend another cent on anything else until you have each and every item listed above!
Gads, "each and every item," I've been hanging around with Chongo too long, I'm starting to sound like him....
Also, be sure to read everything in this Forum! It's a lot, but if you are serious, you will digest it.
Become hungry for aid climbing knowledge.
If you are, you have come to the right place.
Cheers,
Dr. Piton
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stevematthys
Jun 28, 2002, 7:31 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2000
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thanks for this links and the info
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