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iltripp
Apr 14, 2005, 1:07 PM
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Any suggestions for good, easy routes at moore's?
I've climbed there twice before, but years ago when I had just started leading, so I don't remember much about the routes.
A couple constraints:
I've been plagued by injuries for the past while (6 months in a cast for a broken wrist and now a strained tendon), so I'm looking for easier routes (5.9 tops) to get back into the swing of things and regain the lead head.
I've got a fairly small rack (nuts, hexes, tri-cams, and about 5 cams), so I'd like something with plenty of protection. Are there bolt anchors on the trad climbs there? I usually have plenty of gear to lead on (unless it takes big pro), but bulding anchor will leave me short for the next pitch.
I figure I'll do zooview, but I was looking for some other suggestions as well.
Thanks
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noell
Apr 14, 2005, 1:11 PM
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Golden Earring - 5.7 and different than Zoo View, so you'd get some variety. It's a crack that goes up the little ampitheater, then trend left to rap anchors that are over Quaker State (5.11).
Wash Board - 5.5-5.6 with a downclimb (4th class to 5.0) to get off the climb that will bring you to the wall opposite from Zoo View.
Both take protection really well. Have fun!
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bumblie
Apr 14, 2005, 1:27 PM
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In reply to: Any suggestions for good, easy routes at moore's? I've been plagued by injuries for the past while (6 months in a cast for a broken wrist and now a strained tendon), so I'm looking for easier routes (5.9 tops) to get back into the swing of things and regain the lead head.
Air Show is a nice 5.8. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Down at the Amphitheater you got Golden Earring 5.7 and Wailing Wall 5.6.
Both end at the same spot, which is an ideal place to TR a nice 5.10 called Do or Dive.
Other good easy routes are Head Jam and Easy Hard. Both are 5.6 (I think).
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whipperman
Apr 14, 2005, 2:08 PM
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Take a look in either of the NC guidebooks: Kelley or Lambert and Shull. Plenty of good routes listed in there.
I recommend all of the following for 5.9 and under:
In the Amphitheatre:
Wailing wall 5.6
Raise Hell 5.8
Golden Earring 5.7
Step and Fetch 5.8
Breaking Rocks 5.9
Shit Hook 5.8
Sentinel Buttress and surrounding area:
Too Much Fun 5.9
Washboard 5.6
Airshow 5.8
Zoo View 5.7
Sentinel Buttress 5.5
Super Direct 5.8
By the time you work your way through all of those your finger should be feeling better.
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cragmasterp
Apr 14, 2005, 2:28 PM
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No bolted belays at Moores, although there are a few fixed rap anchors. The one exception is at the top of sentinal chimney, a nice 5.5 route right of zoo view. This is also the typical decent for any route on on the circus wall.
My vote is for Wailing Wall, 5.6, as the best quality easier route. As you know i am sure, Zoo View is one of the harder 5.7's in NC.
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norskagent
Apr 14, 2005, 2:56 PM
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nutsweat 5.9
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forkliftdaddy
Apr 14, 2005, 2:59 PM
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I'd have to add to Whipperman's list Head Jam and Easy Hard.
And I'd take off Shit Hook and regrade Super Direct 5.9.
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bumblie
Apr 14, 2005, 3:13 PM
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That's just mean.
Yea, tripp. Hop on nutsweat. It's casual. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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norskagent
Apr 14, 2005, 3:19 PM
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actually break on through 5.10 is prolly easier to lead than nutsweat...one easy 5.10 roof move between two fun 5.8 jug sections, w/ good pro throughout.
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organic
Apr 14, 2005, 3:44 PM
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What I can't believe no one mentioned Wailing Wall, it is probably the most beautiful 5.6 I have or will ever climb!
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iltripp
Apr 14, 2005, 3:44 PM
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Damn... that's a lot of suggestions. Looks like I will have a busy afternoon and plenty of routes to re-acclimate myself to trad leads.
Thanks for all the help...
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iltripp
Apr 14, 2005, 4:03 PM
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In reply to: That's just mean. Yea, tripp. Hop on nutsweat. It's casual. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Thanks bumblie... I'm sure you'd love to see that :lol:
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bumblie
Apr 15, 2005, 1:59 PM
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In reply to: What I can't believe no one mentioned Wailing Wall
See my first post.
Wailing Wall is the kind of 5.6 you wish it went on for another 1000 feet.
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joshy8200
Apr 15, 2005, 3:00 PM
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In reply to: Take a look in either of the NC guidebooks: Kelley or Lambert and Shull. Plenty of good routes listed in there. I recommend all of the following for 5.9 and under: In the Amphitheatre: Wailing wall 5.6 Raise Hell 5.8 Golden Earring 5.7 Step and Fetch 5.8 Breaking Rocks 5.9 s--- Hook 5.8 Sentinel Buttress and surrounding area: Too Much Fun 5.9 Washboard 5.6 Airshow 5.8 Zoo View 5.7 Sentinel Buttress 5.5 Super Direct 5.8 By the time you work your way through all of those your finger should be feeling better.
That covers it for all the moderates at Moore's.
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extremrocker12
Jul 7, 2006, 1:54 AM
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Ok so I am very new to climbing and I went and did wash board with my uncle. It is a one pitch climb but only if you have alot of larger type pro. We had to make it a two pitch. I was alot of fun and if you are new to climbing and want to try leading it is a great place to learn.
-extremrocker12
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