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best way to anchor someone down
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clax170


Apr 15, 2005, 1:51 PM
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best way to anchor someone down
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What is the best/most secure way to anchor someone to the ground? A carabiner through their harness then tied off to a rock/tree etc... or a piece of cordellete through the harness, or a piece of rope with a figure 8 tie in (just like the sharp end)? Or it doesn't matter as long as it's secure?

thanks


paulraphael


Apr 15, 2005, 6:44 PM
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you might consider this method:

http://www.genkigirl.org/gallery/images/oils/bondage.jpg


Partner j_ung


Apr 15, 2005, 7:17 PM
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The most commonly accepted way is probably to use the standing end of the climbing rope. This has the added benefit of securing that loose end. As always, though...

It... it... t

Depends... pends... ends...

:)


markc


Apr 15, 2005, 7:29 PM
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In reply to:
The most commonly accepted way is probably to use the standing end of the climbing rope. This has the added benefit of securing that loose end. As always, though...

It... it... t

Depends... pends... ends...

:)

And I was just going to recommend a nail gun...


clmbr121


Apr 15, 2005, 7:32 PM
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http://img35.echo.cx/...5/74/dsc017949mf.jpg


chanceboarder


Apr 15, 2005, 7:56 PM
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:lol: those suction cups come in handy for everything, don't they?


angrymarmot


Apr 15, 2005, 8:08 PM
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This should answer your question.

http://www.rock-climbing.ws/belaying-the-leader/


jfk


Apr 15, 2005, 8:20 PM
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several cubic feet of quickset concrete will work as well.


Partner euroford


Apr 15, 2005, 9:41 PM
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i've always been partial to cams, nuts, big bro's, trees, chockstones, and border collies.


neurostar


Apr 15, 2005, 9:44 PM
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In reply to:
you might consider this method:

http://www.genkigirl.org/gallery/images/oils/bondage.jpg

yup, that should keep 'er down.


paulraphael


Apr 15, 2005, 11:56 PM
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non-wiseass reply:

there are a lot of ways to do it. ideally, treat it as you would a belay off the ground and tie in with the rope. fewer links in the chain, and you have a dynamic connection to the anchor. but it's not always best.

if there's danger of rockfall on the ground (and there often is) and there's no shelter for the belayer (and there often isn't) the belayer shouldn't be tied with too short a leash, for obvious reasons. if it's a long pitch and you have barely enough rope, then there's little reason to squander ten or more feet of it on tying the belayer to a tree. in this case, use a sling, a cordelette, or whatever you have handy.

ideally clip it to your belay loop or rope tie-in loop (the loop made by your figure 8 knot) so you don't end up with weird forces on the harness. and obviously make sure your anchor is good for an upwards pull (or whatever direction the first piece of pro is from it)

when you do have slack in the tie-in, be sure to ask yourself what exactly will happen if you have to catch a whipper. will you get dragged over sharp rocks? will you smack into the wall? will you fall into a hole? visualize it, and stand in a place that makes sense. you might find it surprisingly hard to hold with your break hand when you're upside down in a cactus with your teeth knocked out.


sactownclimber


Apr 16, 2005, 12:35 AM
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It's going to be a while before the suction-cup thing dies off, I predict . . .


stymingersfink


Apr 16, 2005, 12:38 AM
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best way to anchor someone down?

I like to place each of the victims feet in a five gallon bucket, and fill in around with cememt. You don't have to worry so much about them coming to the surface at some in-opportune time like you do when simply tying them to a cinder block.


swesterhus


Apr 29, 2005, 7:46 AM
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a piano






















you do the thinking


Partner tisar


Apr 29, 2005, 10:32 AM
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:!:

http://www.portugal-haus.de/...0Formosa%20Anker.jpg

- Daniel


bigjonnyc


Apr 29, 2005, 11:34 AM
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Those anchors may work tisar, but they look a bit dated, like rusty bolts on a sport route. This is probably a better idea:
http://photos.nondot.org/...d%20the%20anchor.jpg


tradrenn


May 3, 2005, 2:43 AM
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Whatever you do do not clip your belayer with a biner thru belt on their back ( I mean back of the harness ) Only use a belaying loop to clip belaying device and a ground anchor.


tradrenn


May 3, 2005, 2:49 AM
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You should also consider a waight diff between two of you.
The belayer can be lighter then you by up to 40 % ( someone please correct me if I'm wrong )


dontmaytagme


May 19, 2005, 6:51 PM
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No one mentions the glory of grey duck tape. Sheesh.

ja.


dontmaytagme


May 19, 2005, 7:30 PM
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No one mentions the glory of grey duck tape. Sheesh.

ja.


dirtme


May 19, 2005, 8:35 PM
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Ya, what's the weight difference between you two? I personally don't prefer tying my belayer down. My wife being my primary belayer is 40 lbs lighter then I am, 160/120 and I don't tie her down (while climbing).

For trad climbing, your anchor on a multipitch route, should already be good for a upward and downwards pull. If she's on the ground, I prefer that she's "loose". The dynamic nature of the belay prevents shock loading the gear and also gives me a much softer landing. Just this weekend I took some 15 footers and she did just fine and dandy. She shot up about 5 feet but that's to be expected.


mcfoley


May 21, 2005, 4:50 PM
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Just have your belayer put on a weight vest, 40-70 LBs should do it...
It that doesn't work...Duct tape and deltal floss are always bomber.


gunked


May 26, 2005, 12:25 AM
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Marry 'em!


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