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kansasclimber
Apr 23, 2005, 1:44 AM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2002
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Hello all,
First off, I know I have claimed myself to be the best in the world, be a Sharma praiser, and worry more about grades than the enjoyment of the climb; but I will tell you this, there is nothing better than climbing. You can put that in any category you would like
I have been seeing many people posting recently about how to get stronger, which I have my share of in the past, and probably will continue to do so, yet I believe I have found a few secrets that I would like to share with you all. Since I am from Kansas, it seems all I do is train. There is no where to actually try out my "skills" so I spend lots of time getting strong, and experimenting how to do so. So, I am trying to say that my credibility is half way decent.
I see too many posts that ask "How to get my fingers stronger, or what needs to happen for me to climb 5.12 or 13?".... These are questions impossible to answer. Everyone is different, including me. So I will share just the things that will help me, yet I believe that some of this stuff will help even the most novice people.
The biggest thing to getting better is time, you will hear it TIME and TIME again, but TIME, will get you BETTER! Believe me. It will simply take your tendons, and the muscles used for climbing to get acclimated to the stress put on to them by climbing. It is just like weight lifting. Your muscles grow back bigger, because they are getting acclimated to the stress they are under. The muscles grow back bigger in order to take on the fatigue an event puts on the body. You will simply adapt. But remember, tendons take MUCH longer than muscle to make stronger (and also to heal...).
Second, is mental. I believe that climbing has actually a lot of mental in it. From what I have seen, people sometimes just give up, simply because they believe that "these holds are too small" I don’t know how I could ever hold on to these. So what I started to do is actually train the mind. I started to do tings like campus board and hang board to MENTAL show myself that not only can I hold on to these holds, but I can do pull-ups on them! So mentally, when you encounter a "small" or "crappy sloper", you realize, 'that’s no worse than that crimper I campus off of downstairs'. It is a lot of simply believing:
1. You can do things that seem like you cannot.
2. Believe that you will get better (TIME)!
Third, this is the physical part (fun, fun!) It seems that people always want to know, again... HOW DO I GET STRONGER! Well these are the things that truly work "FOR ME"!
1. Campus board- works on the larger ones first, if those are too easy, and then move to the smaller ones, and then smaller. But the technique part is the important part. I personally like working on the largest ones, but doing very powerful moves (so there is a lesser chance of getting hurt). Start on the lowest rung (number 1), then go to like rung 5. Then drop back down to number one. Repeat. Another large part of this is taking large breaks when needed. And between reps, 5 minutes at least between sets. Then also what to do (what ever size you choose) is to start on the first rung then shoot to 3, then 5 (without matching!). Then if that’s too easy go to 1-2-5. Then maybe 1-2-6, and on... Another thing that helps me on campus rungs is staring on the lowest rung (probably on the biggest ones), then jump simultaneously to the next rung, then the next rung, then the next. Then the jist of it is doing the same thing, but downward. I have many more techniques for hang board; please PMme if you want more info.
2. Pull-ups- Short and simply, weighted pull-ups, after you can do about 15 un weighted. Also wider grip, the more it works the back, the further in, the more it will work the lats and the "inner" muscles. Try lock offs, trying off left and right hand. And just real quick, ONE ARM PULL-UPS WILL NOT AMKE YOU STONGER, SO DO NOT ASK PLEASE.
3. Hang board- Variety! Hop around on the board as much as possible; go from pockets, to slopers to crimps. The small half second that you must lock off with the arm still on the board, makes you STONGER! Do pull-ups on the nastiest slopers there are, it will build contact strength. I have many other techniques for this also, PM me for more if you’d like.
I’m not saying I’m awesome, I have merely discovered some strength that I did not have before a few months ago. Another thing I have found helpful, is always have a project, it will motivate you. I hope this helped. PM me if you have any questions.
Stephen
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celticelement
Apr 23, 2005, 2:19 AM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
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In reply to: I have found a few secrets that I would like to share with you all
Which part was the secret? I think I missed it. Spell it out more clearly so I may know.
Blinded by my own normality and conformity therewith I may never taste the wonder of discovering that special strength within.
What about exercises like sit-ups. Are there variations on those that I could PM you for?
What about watching what I eat? Are fruits and veggies going to help me build a special strength that I will need on the road to really climbing hard?
So many unanswered questions. So many undisclosed secrets. I don't even know the right questions to ask.
I await your august response.
Somehow this feels like the 'Ask the N00B' thread...
...
- except this one is for real.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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spikeyhair13
Apr 23, 2005, 2:59 AM
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Registered: Oct 18, 2004
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Hey kansas climber, i thought you had some good info. other dude who posted quit being an a$$ and keep quiet. :lol:
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gunksgoer
Apr 23, 2005, 3:17 AM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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ok so im deleting my witty response, to thank kansasclimber for contributing to this site
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kansasclimber
Apr 23, 2005, 4:00 AM
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Sorry celtic, but i only had enough time for the info provided. And yes, this is a real post. If you dont need any help, dont click on the thread, i just thought it would be nice for others to get some info.
Stephen
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pushsendnorcal
Apr 23, 2005, 4:24 AM
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Registered: Jun 15, 2003
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shut up chuffer
seriously you have just repeated known training techniques that are hella old, while they are the most effective techniques, they are far from being secrets.
Another thing, it seems that you have little grasp of the more detailed aspects of training, grips, sets, reps/seconds held, lock-off angles and their transfer and so on.
Right off the bat, you say that if 1-2-5 is too easy then do 1-2-6 on the campus board. Yeah that stuff is beginner in the world of campusing, how about 1-5-9, or 1-6 or 1-5 double dyno.
Go crawl back in your little cave and pretend that you alone hold the secrets to improve one's climbing.
Dam chuffer,
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kansasclimber
Apr 23, 2005, 4:29 AM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2002
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I guess you cant get away from punks in this world can ya... o well, anyone that can use the info please do so, the people that want to make their ego's larger by insulting me feel free, im out.
Stephen
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alpnclmbr1
Apr 23, 2005, 5:35 AM
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Registered: Dec 10, 2002
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Don't down dyno on a campus board.
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strongmadsends
Apr 23, 2005, 5:04 PM
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Registered: Feb 22, 2005
Posts: 113
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I say dont rip on the guy. He's excited he's getting results and wanted to share his thoughts of whats working for him. gosh...
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coloredchalker
Apr 23, 2005, 5:33 PM
Post #10 of 15
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Registered: Jan 6, 2005
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I appreciate the advice. I'm always looking to improve my ability and technique. If I already new some of what you posted at least it reminded me to do things I wasn't doing.
Thanks, and I'm sorry people have to be jerks.
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iltripp
Apr 23, 2005, 5:47 PM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2003
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All you've done is rehash some basic advice...
It would only be useful to a relative noob... The only problem is that a noob who tries to do pullups on a crimper or use a campus board is going to injure a tendon. Most climbers who are experienced enough (strong enough) to campus already know plenty about it.
You left out a number of other uber-important aspects of training. What about core strength? What about working opposing muscles (push-ups, etc).
I can just see someone who doesn't know any better trying to follow your two-bit advice. "I just have to believe I can do it", followed by tons of pullups and tendonitis. Add some campusing in for injured fingers and you've got a wonderful cocktail of bullshit advice.
In other words, STFU nOOb.
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barkeatervt
May 4, 2005, 12:40 AM
Post #12 of 15
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Registered: May 17, 2004
Posts: 32
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The best way to get stonger???
Do Stone Masonry work!!!
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mattb
May 4, 2005, 2:58 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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My dad was a mason for 25 years and thats not a way to get in shape, or at least for climbing! He complained about back problems since his mid-thirties, but his hands were like coarse grit sand paper.
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munchkin
Jan 28, 2008, 11:21 PM
Post #14 of 15
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Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 24
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[quote "pushsendnorcal"]shut up chuffer
seriously you have just repeated known training techniques that are hella old, while they are the most effective techniques, they are far from being secrets.
Another thing, it seems that you have little grasp of the more detailed aspects of training, grips, sets, reps/seconds held, lock-off angles and their transfer and so on.
Right off the bat, you say that if 1-2-5 is too easy then do 1-2-6 on the campus board. Yeah that stuff is beginner in the world of campusing, how about 1-5-9, or 1-6 or 1-5 double dyno.
Go crawl back in your little cave and pretend that you alone hold the secrets to improve one's climbing.
Dam chuffer,[/quote]
Is this necessary? why do you feel the need to be a complete tant licker behind the curtain of Anonymity. This man is sharing Knowledge about his passion. whats wrong with that. If you don't like what he is saying, don't continue reading the post. and last but far from least, "hella" is not a word, you dumb fuck!
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yokese
Jan 28, 2008, 11:44 PM
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Registered: Jan 18, 2006
Posts: 672
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Way to revive an old thread....
It's aliiiiveeeee!
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