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johnr9q
Apr 27, 2005, 3:17 PM
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Registered: Oct 5, 2001
Posts: 120
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Was climbing at Obed, Lilly bluff, and found it to be wonderful climbing but noticed many of the bolts were not stainless and were very rusted. Also many of the fixed draws looked like they were original. These should be replaced with chains. I'm from California and just passing thru or I would do the work myself.
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gripster
Oct 6, 2009, 1:33 PM
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Registered: Apr 4, 2006
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Yes that is correct, fixed gear and bolts in the Obed are old and sketchy. The area doesn't see near the traffic that neighboring crags like the RRG do, so no one really seems to care to invest the money to replace the old gear. If you are afraid of fixed draws with sketchy worn slings and beaners that will not close, or if old rusted out bolts concern you, then go climb somewhere else.
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shoo
Oct 6, 2009, 2:12 PM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
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gripster wrote: If you are afraid of fixed draws with sketchy worn slings and beaners that will not close, or if old rusted out bolts concern you, then go climb somewhere else.
No. If you are sketched out by the gear and enjoy climbing in the place, chances are, other people feel the same way.
Put some time and money into your local crag to replace / repair some of the gear. If you do not have appropriate bolting knowledge or equipment, contact someone who does. Contact your local climbing organization / gurus to get started.
The OP noted that this is not his local crag, and is thus unable to do it himself. However, he could put in a donation at the local climbing organization with a note saying he'd prefer it to go to gear replacement if possible.
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