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yannbuse
Apr 27, 2005, 10:02 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2003
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Its about this time of the year that i start planning my climbing trips for the summer and ive drawn up to options. The first is to go back to my beloved chamonix, the other is to remain here in the states and explore a little more (ive only been living here for 2 years). Most of my colleagues and my girlfriend have been to california and claim that it would be my heaven. Drawn by their enthusiasm i decided to start planning a trip to the west coast.
Ive never been to california nor did i have much interest as i focused my energy around the Alps. After keeping an ear out for accounts, advice, remmondations and a couple searches on the forums i have a very relative idea of what the state offers. Of course the likes of Jtree, Yosemite, Sierras, etc are not completely foreign to me as publications and other sources do many articles on those areas. And thats where my problem is, the state has tons of stuff! I dont know where to start! I feel like a kid in a candy store the size of wal-mart.
My plan starts with flying into SFO and renting a car for 2 weeks in august to do a very productive road trip. I suppose im looking for guidance in terms of what areas would best suit my interest, which are focused on alpine (up to D -TD), multi-pitch trad (up to 5.9/10) but i would like to have a go at a couple sport routes while im there. But also to get a better understanding of all the possibilities i was wondering what you would do if you had 2 weeks to spend on a climbing road trip in california and what you are focusing on.
thank you for your time
Yann
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sspssp
Apr 27, 2005, 10:32 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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I would recommend a Sierra trip (or two). Spend some time in Toulumne (Yosemite will be pretty hot). There is scattered (but high quaility) sport climbing around the Bishop area and there is plenty of bolt clipping in Toulumne (if you like run out slabs).
Go to supertopo.com and buy (online download) their High Sierra select. Pick any route that sounds about the right level of difficulty. You can't go wrong.
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abbysomebody
Apr 27, 2005, 11:22 PM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2004
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tuolumne!!! sierras alpine routes! great recommendation on the high sierra guidebook from supertopo- get that and you'll be set for some awesome routes. supertopo also has a tuolumne guidebook that sounds like it would suit your needs- lots of 5.9/5.10 multipitch and some bolted stuff as well.
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rocknroll
Apr 28, 2005, 12:38 AM
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Registered: Apr 26, 2003
Posts: 111
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When I went to Europe, my goal was to climb the classics, The Eiger Nordwand, The matterhorn, The Dru. Unfortunately, I watched the barometer plummet in Grindenwald and saw the inside of hotels for three weeks. Never went back. And why should I? I got it all right here. Excellent weather, fine granite, California girls. I live in heaven! I live in the Alabama Hills, right at the base of the Chamonix of the Sierra, the Mt. Whitney Region near Lone Pine
But if you come to California, you must at least climb the most specatcular piece of rock sculpture, Half Dome and the highest peak, Mt. Whitney. You must caress the wonderful knobby granite of the largest batholith in the world in Tuolumne and you must dance your way up one of the celestial aretes in our most alpine of settings, The Palisades.
For Half Dome, the northwest face can be climbed in a long day by a strong party with some muddling around in the dark; Snake Dike at 5.7 is a fantastic alternative with less commitment, but a lot more hiking - especially the final steps to the summit - like walking up a perfect sphere.
Tuolumune is a great place to rest or train...Cathedral Peak is a dreamy half day run-up - combine it with a traverse of the Mathes Crest for the hardmen and women; West face of Conness is a committing full day adventure and the Third pillar of Dana is a moderate grade IV with an easy approach. Hop in your rented Geo Metro and head on down towards Mammoth. Skip the overpriced resort and head straight over Mammoth Pass to Reds Meadow. The South Face of Clyde Minaret, 16 pitches, 5.8, is perhaps the finest climb in the Sierra. But you may not have time for the approach - 10 miles. Regardless, take a dip in the hot springs outside of town.
Next blow through Bishop - you don't got time to hang out and act like a climber - you are one! Go fifteen miles south to the small hamlet of Big Pine and up towards the Palisades. Temple Crag is an easy four mile hike in and offers the finest knife edge ridge in the Sierra, The Sun Ribbon Arete. 20 pitches, 5.9. If ridges ain't your thing, Dark Star, IV, 5.10 is the mega-classic. From the summit gaze at the majority of the 14,000 foot peaks in California.
Craggin'? You ain't got time for playin' in the sand box, you got the tallest mountain in California to climb. But if you must, Rock Creek, south of Mammoth, has sport and trad climbing; Bishop Creek has trad on Cardinal Pinnacle and Whitney Portal, has mostly trad, but also, a killer new mixed route up Whitney Portal Buttress. Ghostrider, 5.10c, 10 pitches, first half trad, second half sport...or should I say sporty - bolts are sometimes twenty feet apart, but never far enough to be considered an "r" route.
Ok, vacation is almost over. Go down to the town of Lone Pine and check out the brand-spanking new Eastern Sierra Mountain Center. Built by the legendary Doug Thompson, owner of the Whitney Portal Store, this is the place to grab a shower, buy some chalk (who needs chalk in the mountains?), sleep with a roof over your head (price of a bed should be no more than a pound of beef jerky) or find out about conditions.
Conditions? Well, you won't have to worry about conditions. This is California! Sun shining 'till you can't tan no more...unless it is afternoon thunderstorm season. Watch it! A lot of Whitney climbers met their end as a lightning rod atop that peak. After a fine meal at the Bonanza or Margie's Merry-Go-Round, Head on back up to the Portal and sleep a night at altitude. The route of choice on Mt. Whitney is the East Buttress. A cruise for experienced climbers, with an early start, you should be able to get off it before the thunderheads crown the summit. Nearby Mt. Russel offers exquisite grade III, crack climbing - Mithral Dihedral, south face and another exquisite ridge, Fish Hook arete...and Keeler Needle offers up several big wall routes and the historic Harding Route, a grade V that can be completed in a really long day.
Ok, are you ready for your vacation from your vacation? In two weeks you can accomplish at least one major climb in three of the four areas, and a little craggin' along the way...and most likely have the weather co-operate. Something that could not be said for the Alps.
If you come through Lone Pine, give me a holler. We'll go for a ride out on the range and rope us up some steaks for the camp fire. Ye-ha!
----Smokey Joe
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jerrygarcia
Apr 28, 2005, 12:44 AM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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yosemite valley -> tuolumne -> eastern sierras for ice -> Bishop/mammoth area -> Lake Tahoe(you wont regret visiting here, its why I moved from Va. to Ca.)
Driving from yosemite to tahoe is only 3 hours via tioga pass.
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rocknroll
Apr 28, 2005, 1:20 AM
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Registered: Apr 26, 2003
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There is great world-class climbing in Tahoe. Lover's Leap, Donner Pass, and (I shed a tear now) Cave Rock. Certainly could be added to your trip.
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jerrygarcia
Apr 28, 2005, 1:43 AM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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[edit] issue was resolved via pm. Thanks rock-n-roll.
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james_climber
Apr 28, 2005, 2:45 AM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 304
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Im thinking about make the same road trip in August , and the same is happening to me i dont know where to start
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