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korntera
Apr 28, 2005, 6:00 AM
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Registered: May 14, 2004
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I am beginning aid, I have two full trad racks 2 daisy chains and 2 metolius aid ladders, i am looking for an A1 aid climb to do at smith. I was thinking of doing "origanal start" or pioneer route in the monkey face area. Does anybody know of any other bolt ladders or A1 aid climbs so i could do my first aid climb?
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brokenarmboy19
Apr 28, 2005, 7:48 PM
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Registered: Jun 10, 2004
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yeah i know you don't have 2 racks and when did you get the latters And DAMN IT YOU WERE OFF BELAY WHEN I WENT TO SLEEP
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valygrl
Apr 28, 2005, 7:57 PM
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Registered: Jul 8, 2002
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The Pioneer Route is a good one - try to hit it on a weekday though, it's popular. If you want to add more aid, instead of doing one of the 2-pitch moderate free approaches to the bolt ladder, you can start on the east side of the formation and aid (clean!) the 11+ crack that leads up into the notch, it goes at A1, no special gear needed, bring one large camelot.
You might want to bring climbing shoes for the Panic Point pitch.
Have fun, and don't forget to summit.
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korntera
Apr 28, 2005, 11:30 PM
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Registered: May 14, 2004
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Joe, Lucky is comming and he has a full trad rack, Sean has a full trade rack and a full set of tri cams and each has a set up nuts, and i have 4 cams and three tri cams i just bought and I also just bought 2 ABC aid ladders bitch!
to the other person however, thanks for your help, i just need to get my partnert to get some aid ladders now.
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mikeehartley
Apr 29, 2005, 12:07 AM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2003
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The 1st pitch of the East Face of Monkey is a great A1 pitch. Bring many stoppers in the 5/16" range. It's long and steep but easy.
If its crowded hike down into the Gorge and you'll find a hundred or so pitches to do.
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sava6e
Apr 29, 2005, 12:13 AM
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Registered: Apr 2, 2004
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travis well then dont claim that you have two trad racks, shyit tryin to make yourself look all savvy here on RC.com, oh and does anyone wanna climb at flagstone this weekend cuz my other buddy sucks, and always bails out. anywayz travis im gonna have to check that stuff out your buying today when it gets here, ebay---geeze, well anywayz laters and i thought we wernt doing monkey face make you mind up!!!!
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ringlock
Apr 29, 2005, 12:20 AM
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Registered: Apr 29, 2005
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don't go to smith to learn aid. better you should migrate south to yosemite.
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olympicmtnboy
Apr 29, 2005, 12:36 AM
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Registered: Feb 4, 2003
Posts: 270
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Yeah, the pioneer route is about as easy as it gets, and your partner can monkey up by pulling on the draws on the bolts if he doesn't have aiders. My first real aid lead was the second pitch of Bubbas in Bondage on the Picnic Lunch Wall which was a bit scary for me, although a fair bit of it is really manky old bolts. I think it's A2+ in the book.
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