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codhands
Apr 27, 2005, 10:52 PM
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tejz
Apr 29, 2005, 5:45 AM
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If you want to learn about bolting routes I would post your question in a different forum
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treez
May 2, 2005, 1:59 AM
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This route has been led on gear 4 times now by three people. We have named it clifflash. The route that ends at the original tree anchor is a pretty hard 5.9. It probably seems hard because of the 16 foot run-out at the very top on a .75 camalot. Another route was partially cleaned and climbed on TR to the right. It will possibly need some bolts. Clifflash does not need any bolts, just balls, a helmet, and a prayer. The tree works great at the top. Please take your gear home with you at night.
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codhands
May 2, 2005, 3:48 AM
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Thanks E. I know that tree is stout. I was worried about the 1' thick slab fracture kinda hangin' there on climber side of tree. I figured if the wind didn't shake it loose a toprope climber taking a fall probably wouldn't but got ugly visions dancin' through my head, "Rock!" I would feel better having a couple of nice bolts and some chain hanging on an unfractured piece of rock, but I will trust the voices of experience and leave well enough alone. thnx! cs
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treez
May 2, 2005, 3:09 PM
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Hey cod- Thanks again for all your work cleaning the rock. I wasn't talking about the brushes as far as leaving gear. They are nice to have around. It's the pre-placed pro that might diminish the experience for some people. It sure is an exciting lead. I wonder if it is private property. Hopefully we can keep access. EVERYONE BE QUIET UP THERE.
Later- E
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dingus
May 2, 2005, 3:17 PM
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In reply to: I wonder if it is private property. Hopefully we can keep access. EVERYONE BE QUIET UP THERE. Later- E
That's pretty funny, reading this on an international rock climbing forum. Maybe if you wanted it kept quiet you should have, um, kept it quiet?
No worries, no skin off the backs of my hands.
Cheers
DMT
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codhands
May 2, 2005, 6:45 PM
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Did you guys lead it up through that crack at the top of the roof or over on the left side by those jugs?
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treez
May 3, 2005, 12:00 AM
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Cod- All leads have utilized the jugs, but the upper point of the roof has good pro. I'll probably try that next time.
Dingus- You probably don't realize that our town has no roads in or out. There is a very small group of regular outdoor climbers. They all knew about the climb within a few days anyway. These are the people I was reminding to be quiet. If anyone wants to fork over huge transpo money to come climb our new 60' 5.9 trad route, we'd be honored, but I don't expect droves. Later.
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codhands
May 3, 2005, 12:33 AM
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Dingus- Also by being quiet he was actually talking about yelling, hollerin' generally carrying on. This spot is literally 150' from someones porch. You know how people get about their privacy. cs
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treez
May 3, 2005, 4:36 AM
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You don't really need the #2s.
Down low there is a girth-hitchable rock formation that is crazy.
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hosh
May 3, 2005, 8:31 PM
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trEez- is that rock solid enough to hold gear on a lead fall? WHen I checked it out, seemed a little soft-ish. Havn't climbed it yet though, just wondering. I'd like to try an on-site lead if the rock is good enough... your thoughts?
and another thing, you still up for bolting at Fritz Cove :?: I'd be happy to mark the mank bolt with a grease pencil or something if you'd like.
thanks, PM me about it.
hosh.
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tejz
May 3, 2005, 9:31 PM
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Well Treez bounce tested the girth hitched rock and it held, it cant be that soft
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treez
May 4, 2005, 2:04 AM
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Yes indeed. If a 3/4 inch diameter "threaded post" of rock could withstand the shockloading I gave it, I think the rock is solid enough.
I say go for it. The moves are well within your abilities. I'd give you more details, but don't want to blow it for you. Checkout the boulder on the trail up there. We cleaned that too. It has some cool holds and moves. The sitstart heelhook on the left is hard. Later
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treez
May 5, 2005, 7:22 PM
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Very interesting. With more intensive cleaning, the "hard" section of this climb has gotten significantly easier. That's too bad. Still a little run-out on top, but not quite as exciting. later
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hosh
May 9, 2005, 3:28 AM
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flashed it on lead on saturday. I'd be willing to say 5.9 R. any seconds? pretty much any fall on that line would be ugly. And on TR I went straight up over the roof, using the finger locks, and I think it would be leadable that way, but I took 3 falls trying it. I don't know how solid the gear would be and I'm still a little apprehensive about the rock quality. if you pull straight up over the roof, there's a mono that you can use, but it's a little bit of a challenge, as there's no real good feet unless you can get the left real high. I'd be pretty excited to hear about the other variations you're talking about.
hosh.
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codhands
May 9, 2005, 5:45 PM
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What kinda rock ya'll think this is. I think it's some kinda limestone, iknow there are pockets of it throughout SE. I gues it's time to break out the old high school geology "Mohs Scale of Hardness" knowledge. cs
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hosh
Feb 19, 2006, 3:46 AM
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sorry to resurrect an old, dead thread, but the line at the top has finally been climbed, by "DJtheKID". He took a few small falls on TR, but finished it. Cliff's been gracious enough to let DJ name it, though he's working on a good name (names are forever, you know...) Also, Tejz, any or trEez, any chance you guys have a bolting kit? there are a few places that could use a little lovin'. Aren't you going to be back in town soon, Tejz? That's the word on the street... (your mom told me).
hosh.
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tejz
Feb 20, 2006, 7:27 AM
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PMing you....
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bph_ak
Dec 30, 2007, 2:04 AM
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I've done this route on lead, on gear and regretted it. It was a fun route, but a worthless risk on gear. If you want to have some 'excitement' in 60' of alright climbing, go for it, lead on. Otherwise, I think shiny anchor bolts at the very least would be the best. I think macho pride is a silly thing to have, especially on such a low reward climb. This wall has some excellent potential for sport climbing-if the purists aren't too attached to the little crag. Maybe we should consider a few bolts to open it up to some new climbers.
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