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lesotho
Jun 7, 2002, 9:31 PM
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After my first multipitch (and my first pitch leading on trad) I swore I would go back to the bolted routes and NEVER climb trad again.
I was &**^&^% SCARED.
I did not trust my placements or the gear.
The most experienced climber (15 years of trad climbing) in our crew took me to a single pitch crag one day after that. I belayed him as he went up putting in placements that looked impossibly weak to me. As he reached the top he just kicked off and shouted YEEHAAAA!
His top nut (and the weakest placement) held him on a nice 3 m runout.
I was convinced.
The freedom, the scenery and the purity of it as a sport appeals to me.
There is nothing better than hanging 300ft up trying to find the right cam while your arm is getting pumped beyond belief.
It is an art.
If you're not living on the edge (or hanging from it), you are taking up too much space.
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climbjs
Jun 7, 2002, 10:04 PM
Post #27 of 55
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Self-sufficiency.
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clam
Jun 8, 2002, 11:55 PM
Post #28 of 55
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It's absolutely clean. Two climbers hop scotch up a wall cleaning up after one another and it is as if they were never there. No trace. Vanished. Ghosts.
[ This Message was edited by: clam on 2002-06-08 16:56 ]
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drock
Jun 10, 2002, 2:12 AM
Post #29 of 55
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Trad is sexy, ! Nothing like seeing a woman leading a heinous crack, calmly sliding in a piece of gear, looking to eval the next moves, then executing. There is just something about it.
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dondiego
Jun 10, 2002, 2:29 AM
Post #30 of 55
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Ditto to all above plus I really agree with Adam about it making people really think about their confidence. I primarily climb trad because it is something that I can do that the little gym-monkey that can hang upside-down on glass is still a little too scared to do. It kind of puts most of us on a more level playing field. I have some friends that are really great climbers and all of them still get nervous when climbing trad because it's al on YOU.
-Don Diego-
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traide
Jun 10, 2002, 2:45 AM
Post #31 of 55
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ok, enough with all the trad climbers... where are the posts supporting sport?
I for one enjoy sport more. This is mainly because I don't trust myself enough to climb on my own placements, nor do I know enough about the form to make it safe for me. I get much more peace of mind on sport, which is a big thing for me as far as the level of fun is.
I have nothing against trad climbers, I just happen to enjoy sport more myself.
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biggernhell
Jun 10, 2002, 3:06 PM
Post #32 of 55
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Sport is cool and all, but theres nothing like that odd combination of holding on for dear life while simultaneously fishing in brassies, sweating like a maniac, and trying not to s--- your pants.
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camsticker
Jun 10, 2002, 5:22 PM
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I like TRAD because it allows you more freedom in route selection. You are free to climb where "you" want to...not just where someone else has routed. I think it comes down to one thing "choice".
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sparky
Jun 13, 2002, 4:51 AM
Post #34 of 55
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i actually trust my own placements more than fixed pro, I have no idea how long those rusty old bolts have been there but i doknow that my placement will hold because I put it there
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socialclimber
Jun 24, 2002, 1:40 PM
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I like trad cause I get to walk around with lots of flash gear. The instructions for my Petzl Calidris advise a max of 5kg of gear per loop but I'm tellin ya, I can easily get 10! Excuse me, gotta go....need more shiny, tinkley things...
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laurent
Jun 24, 2002, 3:27 PM
Post #36 of 55
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Why should anyone necessarily have to love more one than other (not talking about tarts here)? Why can't you love them both for what they are.
The reason I love trad is because you are not necessarily in the difficulty aspect of climbing. Not everybody has to climb 5.14 to be happy! You could be out there in nature, possibly in some very remote or quiet place, climbing an easy multi-pitch route that could take you one day if you want. No hurry, you are here to enjoy the view and the climbing. You place your gear as you want. No matter how strong you are, you also have to find your route, think about what gear you have to place, and trust that #1 stopper that you have 3 meters below your feets.
Trad is cool!
[ This Message was edited by: laurent on 2002-06-24 08:30 ]
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rocknpowda
Jun 24, 2002, 3:56 PM
Post #37 of 55
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I don't think I like one or the other better. I take road trips to sport areas as much as trad areas and like to go places where both are available. I don't see any reason, unless your local crag is all sport or all trad to only do one or the other. I've done routes that required a pieces of gear spaced among bolts, is that a trad climb or a sport climb? Its neither it's just a climb. I find that sport and trad compliment each other. For instance doing both lets you know how to get through a hard sport move via a finger lock or hand jam and on trad routes you have the confidence to leave the crack and bust face moves through a hard section. Do what you like-I like them both.
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dsafanda
Jun 24, 2002, 4:08 PM
Post #38 of 55
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Registered: Mar 6, 2002
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Seems like the time and place for that old line that goes something like....
Sport clmbing is sort of like sport f!#*&#$. It's really really fun but doesn't require any commitment.
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-06-24 09:15 ]
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uncle_big_green
Jun 28, 2002, 3:37 PM
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...because intercourse is better than masturbation.
[ This Message was edited by: uncle_big_green on 2002-06-28 08:38 ]
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ergophobe
Jul 2, 2002, 10:05 PM
Post #40 of 55
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Personally, I like climbing more than I like semantics.
When I started climbing there was no such thing as trad climbing - that's right. Trad only exists as a distinction from sport and before sport climbing existed there was only... what? Trad? Nope. Climbing. Sometimes routes had bolts, sometimes routes had fixed pitons. Sometimes they just took pins. A bit later, they sometimes took just nuts, sometimes in several senses of that word.
I get bored with short routes, be they on fixed gear or placed gear, and I get bored more quickly on routes where the gear is all pre-placed.
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mobius
Jul 5, 2002, 5:42 AM
Post #41 of 55
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Well...Before I get to the actually reasons of why I like Trad over Sport, I'm going to give you a little history on myslef...yes, there is a reason for it...
I started climbing in a gym, made the natural progression to bouldering outdoors, then finly sport climbing. I was having a blast trying hard problems and sport climbs-tinkering with 12d, trying to get on 13a . It was bliss hanging out with a bunch of buds at a sport crag. Moving to only a few places a day, craning our necks back like at the front row of a movie theater. Getting that little boost from your friends down low when your getting pumped at the crux. It was bliss-but the enevitable happened: I got hurt. Blew out my knee actually. It was hard to walk for a good month, couldent run for about 6, finly started climbing around 7 months (still isent the same ). When I started up again, I took to a sport crag I had been at many times before. I hoped onto my warm-up roots, 8s and 9s, but just couldent seem to pull the moves. It made me so frustruated to look at a hold, imagining myself cranking up on it, feeling like I could when I moved my fingertips onto it, but just not being able to hold on. It drove me crazy! I couldent go out with my old group, I was embarassed. Then someone offered to take me out to a local place when I was in vacation in Durango, Colorado. I was reluctant, but I decided to give it a shot. We went to this area called "X-Rock", this cool lil crag, normally refered to as a beginers area. It had a bunch of TRs, but a few cracks that you could actually trad lead, but nothing hard like i was used to. We did a few little TRs, then we went to the "X". I was confused...no bolts...I belayed him up, and I followed, cleaning. IT WAS GREAT! We got on top of the "X" and I was speachless. I had never summited something before. Get to the top of a cliff, yes, but not a PEAK! No rap chains 5 feet down either, it was all the way to the top! My love of trad began.
I now enjoy going out and just picking a peack to get up. Sometimes we don't even get to the gear, but we make it to the top. When you do climb, its amzing. Only you and your belayer...nearly silent. Sometimes so silent that its loud. You hear the wind in your hair, the soft 'clink' of gear ratting against gear. Placing gear so smoothly that you hardly even stop. Then you get to the top and I always get that immage of the camera circling around us, lol, .
Sport was great, but trad is WAY better in my opininon. One other thing is that I feel safer with my own gear. I never like the fact that you have to get to the next bolt or fall to your last one. With trad, I dont mind running out because I can place gear when and where I want it (for the most part). The masturbation to sex analogie was pretty accurate actuate. One is good, but the other is AWESOME with all the bells and whisles to boot.
And why diden't anyone mention how absolutely SEXY a cam is? I could play with one all day!
Sorry this took up so much space!
Mobius~
(Think I should publish? lol JK JK!)
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apollodorus
Jul 5, 2002, 6:08 AM
Post #42 of 55
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
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Sport climbing is like skateboarding on a ramp: for pussies who can't find an empty swimming pool. That lame clown act they do with the fake holds on MTV is totally gay. And now they do it on Cruise Ships, with old ladies being the latest purveyors of "Sport Climbing". The other day something exceedingly toxic came out of my TV: some sort of "contest" with top-roped buffoons trying to outdo each other on a plywood surface festooned with lumps of Bondo. I'd like to see these "champions" spend one day on the DNB, a real climb rated WAY lower than the numbers flashed on the screen. Trad climbing involves more than just wearing tight shoes and knowing which side of the carabiner opens ("Bent it's sent; flat you'll splat"). Sport climbing is for supermodel boys who can't handle the prospect of having to actually spend the night at the top when it gets dark. Trad climbing is mountaineering; sport climbing is posing.
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bmxerjosh
Jul 5, 2002, 6:45 AM
Post #43 of 55
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Registered: Aug 20, 2001
Posts: 14
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I like both. Not one better than the other. Trad is awesome you make it as you go, decide what you want to do, and how. I like sport because it allows you to climb at your limit taking big falls that would be as scary as s--- onto a nut, but that's just my opinion. I also like sport because it allows you to climb in areas that you wouldn't usualy be able to climb because there isn't any opportunities for natural protection. Trad vs sport wars are dumb, climbing is climbing some people like different aspects of it, and thats cool just be respectful of others. Good karma rules. Have fun and go climb.
[ This Message was edited by: bmxerjosh on 2002-07-04 23:48 ]
[ This Message was edited by: bmxerjosh on 2002-07-04 23:52 ]
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ffaallliinngg
Jul 7, 2002, 6:09 AM
Post #44 of 55
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Registered: Apr 21, 2002
Posts: 33
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I enjoy them both. About once a year I get so scared trad climbing that I swear all I'm ever going to do from now on is sport climb. That said, if I was forced to choose one or the other, it would be trad. I like the fact that you are trying to reach the top of something, rather than just an anchor that is no more than half a ropelength high. You find yourself in some incredibly unique places--hundreds or thousands of feet off the ground. No permanent defacing of the rock. Plus I love going to the store and buying gear. That part's over once you have 15 quickdraws if you're a sport climber.
[ This Message was edited by: ffaallliinngg on 2002-07-06 23:10 ]
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mobius
Jul 7, 2002, 6:41 AM
Post #45 of 55
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Registered: Apr 29, 2002
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Did I already say that cams are SEXY?!?!
Matthew~
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cragmasterp
Feb 5, 2003, 3:49 AM
Post #46 of 55
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Registered: Feb 2, 2003
Posts: 278
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trad is just more glad
less flash dance ass pants
i'll take a little lichen in my eye
scratching around for a slightly better
purple TCU
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xcel360
Feb 5, 2003, 4:10 AM
Post #47 of 55
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Registered: Jul 20, 2002
Posts: 481
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Bouldering!! Much more fun than being attached to a rope!
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rockjunkie
Feb 5, 2003, 4:24 AM
Post #48 of 55
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Registered: Apr 16, 2002
Posts: 198
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flash dance ass pants indeed.
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vegastradguy
Feb 8, 2003, 12:40 AM
Post #49 of 55
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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i like climbing trad because it lets me climb mountains.
mmm...multipitch...
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gawd
Feb 8, 2003, 12:46 AM
Post #50 of 55
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 193
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i climb in all aspects of the sport and i like them each in their own respect. each aspect has something to offer.
people who feel the need to differentiate are the losers.
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