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jumpingrock
May 4, 2005, 3:03 PM
Post #51 of 62
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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In reply to: Have any of you guys ever fallen on limestone? I have taken small falls on nuts on granit but never on limestone.
I took a 30 footer on limestone. But it was on a 75 camalot in a horizontal.
Took a 10 footer on a 11 stopper in solid granite. Scared me more than the bigger fall though, but only cause it was my first.
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hosebeats
May 8, 2005, 5:37 AM
Post #52 of 62
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Registered: Dec 4, 2003
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I did my first trad route today. I fell onto a #10 stopper that I thought was manky but it held (hard to clean afterward, I guess it was better than I thought). I had a grey alien right below it that was solid. Who knew that a 5.8 crack could shut me down? I sure didn't. I'm sleeping with that stopper on my nightstand tonight and forever will place it with reverance.
I think that cam placements are easier to recognize and thats why they are the preferred choice of trad noobs.
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kachoong
May 9, 2005, 2:45 AM
Post #53 of 62
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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In reply to: a bomber nut is my favorite piece of gear.
....the happiest I've been after falling on passive gear was falling about 20 feet onto a horizontally opposed #3BD wire and a #5BD wired hex in a horizontal break.... I had clipped the wire to a sling and passed the sling through the biner on the wired hex and then clipped the rope to the sling.... they pulled towards each other just as I'd hoped (planned :wink: ).... made me trust my placements even more after that....
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hosh
May 9, 2005, 3:05 AM
Post #54 of 62
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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one of my climbing partners was having a rather off day yesterday and he took a little whipper on a small-ish hex. Passive pro is great, ot holds if it's set right.
hosh.
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hosh
May 9, 2005, 3:06 AM
Post #55 of 62
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one of my climbing partners was having a rather off day yesterday and he took a little whipper on a small-ish hex. Passive pro is great, ot holds if it's set right.
hosh.
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yeatts
May 9, 2005, 3:20 AM
Post #56 of 62
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Registered: May 2, 2005
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I took one of my biggest trad falls, a 35 footer, on the smallest little pink tricam placed behind a manky sandstone flake. The fall was completely unexpected. I was on the very last move of the route and I had had to run it out to the top. I wouldn't have expected that placement to hold that kind of fall considering the quality of the sandstone, but that pink tricam held and came out fairly easily afterwards. So, yes, passive pro WORKS if you know how to place it!
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perswig
May 9, 2005, 11:37 AM
Post #57 of 62
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Registered: Mar 31, 2005
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... and this is why we should all genuflect at the alter of the beneficent pink tricam.
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keinangst
May 9, 2005, 12:46 PM
Post #58 of 62
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Registered: Apr 1, 2003
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I was pulling for the pink tricam to become the new Pope, but Ratzinger just edged him out.
Only real trad fall was on a #11 stopper. Only about 8'-10', but it was placed well and I never felt scared at all.
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gat
May 9, 2005, 1:36 PM
Post #59 of 62
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Registered: Oct 3, 2003
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In reply to: ... and this is why we should all genuflect at the alter of the beneficent pink tricam.
I am also a devout follower of the pink tricam. Funny thing is, I could care less about the other sizes. I leave red, blue and brown with the second every time. But I never lead off without at least one pink.
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kachoong
May 9, 2005, 2:10 PM
Post #60 of 62
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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In reply to: I took one of my biggest trad falls, a 35 footer, on the smallest little pink tricam placed behind a manky sandstone flake |
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keinangst
May 9, 2005, 2:43 PM
Post #61 of 62
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Registered: Apr 1, 2003
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In reply to: Isn't a pink tricam, or any other cam for that matter, mechanical pro and therefore not passive? I think you've wandered from the original question....
An age-old question...while not SLCDs, both hexes and tricams can act in a camming position, but then again, so can nuts if they're placed in a certain manner. I still feel like tricams are passive pro.
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gat
May 9, 2005, 4:52 PM
Post #62 of 62
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Registered: Oct 3, 2003
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In reply to: Hi, How many of you have taken falls on passive protection (nuts, hexes, tri-cams) and had them hold you?
The fact that the op considers it passive (as quoted above) makes the tri-cam a fair answer to their question.
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