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jorian_nl
Apr 9, 2005, 1:28 PM
Post #1 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Apr 27, 2004
Posts: 190
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I think it's a cool idea to put your favorite indoor boulderproblems on here and to share it to other climbers. I have made something to put it on. Hopefully you understand it. between the x 's is about 15 cm. fill the first letter of a hold(sloper, crimp, pocket,foothold, For pinch an I) in instead of a X, underline is a hard hold, not underline is easy. The first and last hold are bold. Fill also underneath the angle of your wall. and eventually a small description. If you have questions pm me. copy and paste this thing: .....1.....2.....3.....4.....5.....6.....7.....8.....9.....10....11...12...13...14...15...16...17...18...19...20 a....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x b....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x c....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x d....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x e....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x f....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x g....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x h....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x i....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x j....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x k....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x l....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x m....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x n....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x o....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x p....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x q....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x r....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x s....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x t....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x
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jorian_nl
Apr 9, 2005, 1:44 PM
Post #2 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Apr 27, 2004
Posts: 190
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here's one of my favorite's .....1.....2.....3.....4.....5.....6.....7.....8.....9.....10....11... 12...13...14...15...16...17...18...19...20 a....x.....p.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x b....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..j.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x c....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....s.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x d....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....c.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x e....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x f....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x g....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....j.....x.....x.....x.....x h....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x i....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x j....x.....x.....f.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x k....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x l....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x m....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x n....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x o....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..f.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x p....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....f.....x.....x.....x.....x q....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x r....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x s....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x t....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x angle of my walll:35degrees Description: the crux is at the hard sloper and crimper, you have to set a lot of tension between the footholds. before the crux you must do a hand switch on a jug.
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lostdog
Apr 9, 2005, 2:04 PM
Post #3 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 112
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wow fellas, lots of time on ur hands huh?
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gymslackerclimber
Apr 9, 2005, 3:33 PM
Post #4 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Feb 22, 2005
Posts: 257
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yeah no kiddin lostdog..... WOW..... it seems like an ok idea to describe your problem, but i dont know who the hell will/can ever follow that 'formula' a little to lengthy for me...
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jorian_nl
Apr 9, 2005, 4:40 PM
Post #5 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Apr 27, 2004
Posts: 190
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I'll try to explain it. you have a boulder wall with line's of t-nuts. every t-nut is a sort of a coordinate which you can number. the X's are the empty t-nuts and you can put different holds on them. the t-nuts that are used have the first letter of a hold(pocket, crimp for pinch an I) Hopefully it's now understandable.
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fivesix
May 12, 2005, 5:38 AM
Post #6 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Mar 19, 2005
Posts: 63
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not too difficult to understand but heres my simpler version... 45 degree wall two hand jug, finish nice edge nice edge ...dyno... horizontal pinch ugly sloper! two hand jug! start on 45, that things sick!
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climbsomething
May 12, 2005, 5:42 AM
Post #7 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
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WTF?!
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musicman
May 12, 2005, 5:46 AM
Post #8 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Apr 16, 2004
Posts: 828
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i think its safe to say that i completely concur on this one.
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cragclimber_99
May 12, 2005, 6:37 AM
Post #10 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Mar 30, 2004
Posts: 42
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I think the uncarved block link kaczoron provided hit the nail on the nose for what he was gettin at. I wonder if therers a reason why if you look at the problem list there was only 6 people that participated. Also, though I dont have a woodie and its been a while since ive though about it and priced holds. 389 bucks for what looked like 10 or 12 holds and a handfull of Jibs seemed like a smokin deal id like to meet the 6 people that paid for both sets!!
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kaczoron
May 12, 2005, 6:58 AM
Post #11 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 68
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Its around 300 US a set of 40, which I think is preaty good, esp since Uncarved block holds are awesome. Just from glancing over the list a fair chunk of those setters are well known Australian top end climbers so they are probly sponserd by uncarved block to post problems, it seems a little out of date. I know a few people who use this system and its nice to be able to trade problems.
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coldclimb
May 12, 2005, 7:27 AM
Post #12 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
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This is as close as I've come to crying in a long time. I am TOTALLY with you Hillary. :shock:
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cgailey
May 12, 2005, 9:09 AM
Post #13 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 585
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precisely
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zozo
May 12, 2005, 2:59 PM
Post #14 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Feb 3, 2004
Posts: 3431
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That original post gave me a siezure!!
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lnmego
May 15, 2005, 6:00 PM
Post #15 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: May 18, 2004
Posts: 72
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This thread made me think that there has to be a better way... http://thefishbowl.org/...ter/routeSetter.html Please be understanding, it is only an alpha version. It doesn't save anything yet. Moreover, that photo is stolen from some university site. If anyone knows flash well and has desire to help, post here. I'd love to hear suggestions, too.
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gamehendge
May 15, 2005, 6:06 PM
Post #16 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Jun 2, 2004
Posts: 398
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would just be plain silly. 8^) Sorry. Gotta. Go. Climb. Outside.
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gunksgoer
May 15, 2005, 6:14 PM
Post #17 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1290
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Ill Bite. x....T.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....H.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....I.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....S.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....I.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....S.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....R.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....E.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....T.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....A.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....R.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....D.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....E.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....D.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x x....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x......x.....x... ..x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x.....x -ws
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skymeat
May 16, 2005, 2:34 AM
Post #18 of 18
(3146 views)
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Registered: Apr 9, 2005
Posts: 60
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Okay fellas....I really do like this idea. But it needs to be put togather in a reasonable way. I'm very intrigued by this idea. First there had to be a way to describe you wall space, x,y,z..then you need to describe the individual wall surfaces, then the individual holds and orientation. I've never climbed on plastic, but it would be crutial to have a name or identifier for every hold (manufacturer's name). Let me know if this is the case....I might just whip up a wall simulator...If you just want to do it on one surface, say a plywood sheet 8' x 8' then label the angle, grid off the surface in say, 1 decimeter grids and label the holds....
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