|
hoppinbig
May 17, 2005, 2:25 PM
Post #1 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 409
|
Hey guys,
I'm heading down to a Seneca, NRG and RRG climbing trip on Friday. I've been to Seneca and the Red numerous times - the New is well new to me and would love to get some advice from you guys.
Regarding the New:
- Can you recommend a good (ie cheap) place to camp (I like my bathroom facilities)?
- I have 2 guidebooks on the New - however I'm feeling a little overwhelmed with all the choices. I climb trad up to 10+ and sport up to 12-. Can I get any route recommendations for both gear and sport? What are the must do routes to do while we are there?
Any other advice would be great... places to eat, drink whatever.
Oh I will have my laptop - are there any WIFI hotspots in the area? I'm guessing there are no starbucks around?
Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
noell
May 17, 2005, 2:35 PM
Post #2 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2003
Posts: 313
|
This weekend is the Rendez Vous- there'll be tons of people around to ask your questions of! Come on by and enjoy a few drinks and a bit to eat!
Otherwise- Chestnut is your best bet for camping w/showers. Cross over the bridge on 19N and it's the first right after the tourist center, gravel road on the left. Its like $7 per person per night.
As far as routes go- the New has TONS and yes, can be very overwhelming. For concentration of sport and trad, check out Endless, Beauty. For sport, summersville, kaymoor.
|
|
|
|
|
hoppinbig
May 17, 2005, 2:41 PM
Post #3 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 409
|
Thanks Noell - I will be climbing Seneca this weekend. We're expecting to hit the New on Wed thru Friday or so. I'll look into those areas.
Whats the deal on Summersville? Is it worthwhile renting a canoe and doing some deep-water soloing?
Thanks for all your help.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
May 17, 2005, 2:54 PM
Post #4 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
Here are a few trad routes, but really, I think you'll strike gold wherever you go...
The star in each area denotes my opinion of the one must-do route of the group.
Endless:
*Party in My Mind (10b)
Autumn Fire (10b)
Riding the Crest of a Wave (9)
Cellebate Mallard (a sandbag at 10c)
Remission (a sandag at 10b)
Bridge:
*Tree Route (10a)
Zag (8)
The Lieback (9+)
Underfling (10b)
Junkyard:
*Rapscallion's Blues (10c)
The Entertainer (10a)
Team Jesus (10b, but a one-move wonder)
Beauty Mountain:
Burning Calves (10b sandbag)
Rod Serling Crack (10b)
Quick Robin to the Bat Crack (10a)
*Super Crack (9+)
I hope that hits your range well enough. I've only led a handful of harder trad routes than those at the New and none are what I would call "must do." Also, this should not be taken to be a comprehensive list of good New River routes. I've only started spending a lot of time there this year, so my list of recommendations is kinda short. Sorry!
If you have the big Rick Tompson book, the stars are pretty accurate.
Come out this weekend for the Rendezvous and you'll have no trouble getting tours and beta!
|
|
|
|
|
hoppinbig
May 17, 2005, 3:00 PM
Post #5 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 409
|
J-ung,
You rock dude - thats exactly what I was lookin for... thanks!
Anyone have any sport recommendations? Something in the 11+ to 12- range that is a classic NRG climb?
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
May 17, 2005, 3:05 PM
Post #6 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
I think I'll leave that to Noelle. She's my sport beta source. :D
|
|
|
|
|
leaverbiner
May 17, 2005, 3:15 PM
Post #7 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2002
Posts: 482
|
In reply to: J-ung, You rock dude - thats exactly what I was lookin for... thanks! Anyone have any sport recommendations? Something in the 11+ to 12- range that is a classic NRG climb?
Sport Routes Recommendations -
Kaymoor
Sancho Belize - 11c
Mo Betta Holds - 11b
Pockets of Resistance -12a (near Rico Suave)
Lost Souls - 11d/12a
Scenic Adult - 11c (minimum 55m rope required)
Summersville
Satisfaction Guaranteed - 11
Under the Milky Way - 11d
Reckless Abandon - 12b/c
Narcisuss - 12a
No Way Jose - 11a
Maximum Overdrive - 11c
Year of the Psycho Bitch - 11a
All the way baby - 12b
I am sure there area ton more, but I am drawing a blank . . . i will leave Endless to those with more experience . . .
|
|
|
|
|
noell
May 17, 2005, 3:18 PM
Post #8 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2003
Posts: 313
|
Hm... classic sport 11+ to 12. Lemme see....
Summersville (water is a bit chilly for swimming now, but hey, go for it! and you don't necessarily need a boat, but it does help) -
Under the Millky Way 5.11D
Satisfaction Guarunteed 5.11B
Narcissus 5.12A
Kaymoor-
Bimbo Shrine 5.11B
Scenic Adult 5.11D
Mo Beta Holds (personal fav!) 5.11C
Lost Souls 5.12A
Bourbon Sauce (personal fav) 5.11D
Endless-
Fall Line 5.12B (5.11 climbing w/a couple hard moves 2/3 up)
Wild Seed 5.11A/B (easy for grade, if you are into slabby starts, I am a slab-weaking, yes there is such a thing)
Baby Rage 5.12A (powerful for the grade, short and rough!)
Legacy 5.11A - classic! Right beside:
Discombobulated (I know I spelled that wrong!) 5.11A
I can't help ya much on Bridge/Junk. Have fun!!!
|
|
|
|
|
hoppinbig
May 17, 2005, 3:21 PM
Post #9 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 409
|
Thanks guys - I've gots me lots of homework!
Appreciate all the help... if anyone is around next wed - fri and wants to show us around send me a PM (might even have some left over canadian beers - though unlikely by that point!
Rock out y'all!
|
|
|
|
|
roambb1
May 17, 2005, 3:36 PM
Post #10 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2004
Posts: 74
|
The trad climbs previously listed are excellent. I haven't done some of teh harder 10's listed, but the ones that I have done are classic. A few others (more moderate)are:
endless wall:
Fantasy 5.8: Great line for a warm-up
Junkyard:
New Yosemite 5.9: Awesome hand crack
Have fun,
BB
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
May 17, 2005, 3:51 PM
Post #11 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
In reply to: The trad climbs previously listed are excellent. I haven't done some of teh harder 10's listed, but the ones that I have done are classic. A few others (more moderate)are: endless wall: Fantasy 5.8: Great line for a warm-up Junkyard: New Yosemite 5.9: Awesome hand crack Have fun, BB
Dood, I can't believe I forgot New Yosemite. Short, but so damn sweet it'll make you cry. Aaaaaannnd, though I haven't done it, I believe that Fantasy, a 3-star 5.8 at Endless, has a 10b direct finish that's supposed to be cherry.
How the Hell did I forget New Yosemite?
And, oh my God! Four Sheets to the Wind! Why is there no forehead-slapping smiley? :?
|
|
|
|
|
tradgal
May 17, 2005, 4:07 PM
Post #12 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 11, 2005
Posts: 384
|
J--New Yo and Four Sheets. Classics!! How could you forget those?
If you want a good mix...Try Fern Butress.
Trad
5.9 Ritz Cracker
10a Anal Clenching adventures
10a Cresenta
10b Springboard (sustained)
Sport
Not too much in the 10 range. But a few goodies.
11b Wildseed
12's there are a lot of them there. Not that I have done it, but I have heard fly girls is pretty good.
|
|
|
|
|
hoppinbig
May 17, 2005, 4:21 PM
Post #13 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 409
|
Wow you guys rock... 3 days in the New won't be near enough time :( but thats always the case ain't it!?
Damn you work... damn you
|
|
|
|
|
dontmaytagme
May 17, 2005, 5:10 PM
Post #14 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2003
Posts: 224
|
[quote="j_ung"]... I believe that Fantasy, a 3-star 5.8 at Endless, has a 10b direct finish that's supposed to be cherry.
[snip]
Supposed to be a cherry if you bring a spider wand up there with you to clean the "overgrowth".
ja.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
May 17, 2005, 5:17 PM
Post #15 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
In reply to: In reply to: ... I believe that Fantasy, a 3-star 5.8 at Endless, has a 10b direct finish that's supposed to be cherry. [snip] Supposed to be a cherry if you bring a spider wand up there with you to clean the "overgrowth". ja.
:lol:
Standard rack this time of year.
|
|
|
|
|
phlsphr
May 17, 2005, 5:30 PM
Post #16 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 10, 2003
Posts: 262
|
It looks like you've got routes pretty well covered above. They are all on my to do list. I worked on Smore Energy,11b at Endless, while trying to stay warm a few weekends back, and thought it was a really sweet route. Strike a Scowl, at 10b is below your level, but a definite must do, as well as Crescent Moon perhaps, a classic 5.7 trad offwidth, right by honeymooners ladders.
At Bubba there is
Attacktician 5.11 a
Boschtardrized 5.11 c
Cynarete 5.11 a
Michelin Man 5.12a
Tongulation 11
Stellar Idea 11
Sheer Energy 11.b
Those are all sport. I haven't done any trad at Bubba, but I know there are a few quality routes there too. You might want to pick up Horst's little Bubba City guide if you go to Bubba. On the other hand, you have more than three days worth above, Summersville, Kaymoor, and Endless would make a great 3 days. The Bubba routes above might be less crowded on a busy weekend--a holiday weekend at that, right? Most people going to Bubba these days are going to easier stuff in other areas of Bubba.
Also, for eats you must check out the cathedral, right in Fayetteville. Great breakfasts. I'm not a pancake man, but those are some of the best I've ever had. They also have computers available for free, so you can check email, etc. if you can do it over the web. I haven't had my laptop down there, so I can't speak to wi fi. Surely there must be a Starbucks over in Beckley.
|
|
|
|
|
kimmyt
May 17, 2005, 5:44 PM
Post #17 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2003
Posts: 4546
|
In reply to: Also, for eats you must check out the cathedral, right in Fayetteville. Great breakfasts. I'm not a pancake man, but those are some of the best I've ever had. .
Werd on the pancake thing!
|
|
|
|
|
leaverbiner
May 17, 2005, 5:48 PM
Post #18 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2002
Posts: 482
|
In reply to: In reply to: Also, for eats you must check out the cathedral, right in Fayetteville. Great breakfasts. I'm not a pancake man, but those are some of the best I've ever had. . Werd on the pancake thing!
pancakes smancakes . . . the TOFU SCRAMBLER!!!!
Also - good cheap Mexican food at Rio grande Take 19 south from fayetteville to Oak Hill . . . next t the Kroger on the western side of Rt. 19!
|
|
|
|
|
thorne
Deleted
May 17, 2005, 6:25 PM
Post #19 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
If you head down to Butcher's Branch (Kaymor) during the week, do 'em all.
Routes not mentioned yet:
Green Piece(10a/b)
Low Voltage(10b/c)
Bicycle Club(11c)
Flight of the Gumby(9)
Hard Core Female Thrash (11c)
7-11 Wall
First Step(10c) - This route is an overlooked classic!!!
Avoid the first 5.10. It frequently has wasps.
If you hit the Fern Buttress section of Endless, hop on
Two Tone Arete(10a)
Chameleon(10c)
Near Fern Point is:
The Prowess(9-)Trad - A Classic
At Diamond Point (Endless), there's:
Remission(10a) Trad
Can I do it 'til I need glasses(10b) Trad
Further on down, there's:
Technarete(10a)
And by Fantasy, there's
Black and Tan (10a)Trad
Aesthetica (11c) sport
If you make it down to the far end of Endless, check out
Oyster Crack(10a)trad
Churning The Butter (11a)sport - long, underated & overgraded
Two things about Endless:
- If you work it right, you can climb in the shade all day.
- When you lead trad lines, your belay is frequently sitting on the rim of the gorge, just taking in the view.
Bubba, Junkyard and the Bridge Area are all nice, but it you have limited time, hit Summersville, Butchers Branch/Kaymor and possibly two days at Endless.
|
|
|
|
|
thorne
Deleted
May 17, 2005, 6:35 PM
Post #20 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
One more thing. You will (probably) drive past Summersville on your way to the New. There are some camping options in the immediate area. You may want to hitting Summersville first. The truckstop a few miles south Summersville Lake has pretty good breakfast chow.
|
|
|
|
|
leaverbiner
May 17, 2005, 7:10 PM
Post #21 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2002
Posts: 482
|
HoppinBig -
As you can see there is just too much climbing at the New to pack into a 3 day adventure. . . you may even be feeling a bit overwhelmed by the long list of supposedly spectacular routes. You are probably saying "can they all be that good?" The answer is yes!
So, to help, I will give you my idea for a good day at Summersville Lake . . . it should help you get the most out of your day while hitting classics, fun mid range and a couple of fantastic routes that are at the harder end of your stated ability . . .
Good Day at Summersville Lake:
Hike straight to Orange Oswald Wall - taking in the beautiful views of the lake, scoping out DC Memorial Boulder, Under the Milky Way and Narcissus along the way (you'll see them all a little later).
Once at Oswald, drop you gear at the base of She Got the Bosch (10a). One more look at the lake and gear up. Do a lap on She Got the Bosh and get a feel for the rock and a beautiful (and casual) 5.10.
Step 30 yards to your right (when facing the cliff) in front of you is a black and maroon streaked face . . this is Scoot Your MuFFin. Take a look at the sweet roof and gear up again. Do a lap on a gorgeous line that makes you work a little for the grade (10c).
Now you have to make a choice: 1 more easy warm up ? or headlong into a superb 12a?
If you decide to do another warm up, take your pick on Oswald Wall- Orange Oswald, Baby's Got a Bolt Gun, Strong Armin' the Little Guy - doesn't matter, they are all good solid 5.10's.
Next, follow the trail from whence you came. After about 100 yards stare into the Narcissus Cave . .. You ready? I think so. Head into the cave get your head together and give Narcisuss (12a) a try . . . bit of advice, milk the heel hooks and look around the left arete for a couple small but key crimpers!
If you aren't up for a 12a yet, or have now done Narcissus and want to step down for a minute, keep heading back along the trail . . . pass the Lichen wall (pretty obvious due to the amount of lichen stil attached to the rock) and the next time the trail hugs the cliff you'll see a 10 deep 5 foot high cave. You are now in front of Satisfaction Guaranteed (11b/c)!!!
Scope it out, figure out the little boulder problem start, drool over the roof and gear up! DO IT!!!!!!
You are now saying HOLY SHIT this is awesome, but you're day is just gettting going.
Work you way back on the trail, you will come close to the water then turn and take a couple of steps up, the next thing you see is a pyramid shaped boulder. STOP HERE! You have reached No Way Jose (11a/b). Short and fun. Do a lap and enjoy the finish! are you feelin' it yet? GOOD!
50 yards more down the trail and you'll see a nasty off-width, on the left side (when facing the cliff) there are probably a couple of cheater stones (use them if you want, but the jump start is more fun, especially with a dozen draws on!). This is Maximum Overdrive (11c). Gorgeous Route that you have to do. Solid crimps from start to finish a bit of wandering left and right makes it climb at the grade, trying to go straight up makes it significantly harder (12b at least).
Eat some lunch and relax . . .
Now head another 40 yards or so back along the trail (see a trend, we are working our way back so the hike out is not that long) until you hit the striking blunt arete - Under the Milky Way (11d). Good thing you ate some food, you will need your physical and mental strength for this one! One of the best routes at the Lake (if you like technical arete climbing. If not, maybe turn the corner and run a fun lap on Jesus is My License Plate (10d).)
Time for another choice. My preference is to go for one more hard route and if you agree, flip the next two suggestions or skip the DC Memorial Boulder all together. If you are feeling strong and want a couple more short steep climbs before a fantastic finale keep reading . . .
Make you way back on the trail to the DC Memorial Boulder - obvious 30 foot tall STEEP Boulder formation. The two routes on the right hand side or fun 11's - short and steep! The first climb in from the left arete is All the Way Baby (12b) which is really just a boulder problem with a big dynamic move (word to the wise - most people stick clip the 2nd bolt on all the way baby). Take your pick (I suggest Year of the Psycho Bitch - far right).
Now for the fantastic finish . . . right near where you turned off for the DC Memorial Boulder, you will see another turn off from the trail that will by-pass the ladder you came down. Head down this trail, cross the stream from the waterfall. Pass Perot/Gun Wall (boring and usually wet) . . . 50 yards or so more and you'll enter the Colliseum . . . to say the least it is obvious!
Take a gander at the spectacular routes towering above you . . . skip most of them, they are 5.13 and up (if you feel up for a go on one, I suggest Apollo Reed left side of the colliseum). Keep walking along the base of the climbs until you walk through a little vegitation onto a ledge and are about to fall into the lake. On your right is a 8 foot tall wall with a nice ledge on top . . LOOK UP, this is your Fantastic Finish - RECKLESS ABANDON (12 b/c)!!
Reckless is a perfect end to the hard part of your day. Scramble up the 8 feet grab the start holds, step a foot up on a good hold and clip the first bolt, step back down to the ledge and get your shit together while taking in the gorgeous view of the lake! Give Reckless all that you've got and enjoy some fantastic climbing - lots of sneaky rests, but the moves are pretty straight forward.
SO you tired yet?
If you've got a little left in you, and you want to cool down a bit, head to Perot/Gun Wall and run a few of the 10's. They are fun and short. Guess what? You're now right near the ladder so your hike out won't seem nearly as long!
I hope you had a great day . . pack up, get in the car, drive to Oak Hill and down a pitcher of margaritas at Rio Grande!!
On the rocks with salt PLEASE!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
jsj42
May 17, 2005, 7:16 PM
Post #22 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 24, 2002
Posts: 374
|
Hey all,
I'll be going down Thursday for the NRG Rendezvous with a bunch of coworkers - they have to return Sunday night, but I can stay thru Monday if I found a partner??? PM me if you're interested: Trad or sport up to 5.12- (although I'll probably be wrecked by Monday morning!)
Josh.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
May 17, 2005, 7:20 PM
Post #23 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
Oh, BTW, Cathedral Cafe does have wifi. :D
|
|
|
|
|
leaverbiner
May 17, 2005, 7:31 PM
Post #24 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2002
Posts: 482
|
sorry, just a bit more rambling from me . . .
my above Day at Summerville Lake was intended to be one of your three days. The climbing at the NRG (which to me includes the Lake - no I am not geographically challenged, it is just easier to group them together - the Lake is actually formed by the damn on the Gaulley River) . . . where was I? oh - the climbing at the NEW is so varied and so spectacular, if you are making one trip I would suggest the lake for a day, if the weather is right Endless for a day and then probably Kaymoor . . . if you don't get your trad fix at Endless maybe skip kaymoor and hit bridge Butress for some trad on the dya you want to pull a little less hard.
oh . . . . stop reading if you want an onsight of Narcisuss, if not, here . . . the Chica working out the moves, notice her left hand - KEY CRIMPER . . . enjoy . . .
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=17572
|
|
|
|
|
phlsphr
May 17, 2005, 7:58 PM
Post #25 of 27
(11661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 10, 2003
Posts: 262
|
In reply to: The climbing at the NRG (which to me includes the Lake - no I am not geographically challenged, it is just easier to group them together - the Lake is actually formed by the damn on the Gaulley River) . . . where was I?
Haven't you consulted the routes database???? Summersville is in CENTRAL WV, whereas the NEW is way down there in SOUTH WV. :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
