|
tragic_photography
May 17, 2005, 8:52 PM
Post #1 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 12, 2005
Posts: 99
|
Topic is closed. Thanks for everyones advice. Farewell, God Bless you all. ~Tragic
|
|
|
|
|
jpdreamer
May 17, 2005, 9:04 PM
Post #2 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2000
Posts: 232
|
Are you really planning to buy 3 sets of hexes?
And 2 sets of ABC Huevos and another set of WC Rocks?
Just buy one set of hexes. Buy more later if you find yourself placing them lots. Also, one set of nuts to start would be fine, especially since you're looking to buy a lot of other nut-like things.
Why the figure 8?
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
May 17, 2005, 9:05 PM
Post #3 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
dude, you really don't need to just go buy all this stuff at once. you will be much better off getting it as you go, and as you learn to use it.
In reply to: Slings. 2x6'-2x8'-3x10'-2x15'-1x30'-1x50'
do you really mean feet???? how about, 8 x 24" runners, 2 x 48" runners and about 8 feet of 1" tubular webbing if you need to make rap anchors.
In reply to: locking Biners. 6x Screw Gates-6x Spinball Lockers
get two locking pearbiners for belay, i like the BD mini pearbiners and two more little screwgates (like bd enduro's) for anchors and misc. stuff
In reply to: Draws. 6x6"-6x8"-4x4"-4x24"
i keep around 6 x 8" draws for trad climbing to augment my 24" runners.
In reply to: Hexes. 2x Metolius Curve Hexes-1x Black Diamond Hexcentrics
the two largest metolious hexes are pretty cool, but i'm not a big hex guy.
In reply to: Nuts/Stoppers. 2x ABC Huevos-1x Metolius Curve Nuts-1x Metolius Astro Nuts-1x Omega Pacific Scallop Nuts-1x Wild Country Rocks
get 1 set of regular nuts (any brand you want, i prefer BD) and a set of HB offsets.
In reply to: Cams. (I need help with these.)
DMM 4CU's are the shit. super light and work buitifully, get a full set #1-4. for small stuff get a set of aliens or a set of wild country zero's. for doubles augment the DMM's with camelots #.75-3.5. add bigger stuff if you want to get into offwidths, but probobly not.
In reply to: Rope. 1x 9.5mm 1x 11.5mm
get one rope, 9.8-10.5 x 60m, get another when this one wears out or you specificly need it for something.
i have not, nor ever have used a ropebag. though i got one free from bluewater. i'm using it for something around the house.
In reply to: Haul Bag. 1x 3500 cubic inches.
forget the haulbag and get yourself a medium-small crag pack. currently i'm digging my north face spire 30. your not climbing a bigwall are ya?
In reply to: Wiregates. 20x
2 x wiregates per sling or quickdraw
1 x wiregate per cam
fat ovals to rack nuts
only if yer into pebble wrestling, i can't help you here.
In reply to: Daisy Chain. 2x
unless you are aid climbing these are useless.
use an atc instead, or as i prefer a trango b52
In reply to: Helmet. Petzl Elios Class
i greatly prefer the ecrin roc myself.
also, get a nut tool. then take you shiney new rack, hand it to a quide or experience trad climber and ask them to take you climbing with it! from some of your suggestions i take it that you not very experienced, thats okay, we all have to start someplace, but don't let disposable income fool you into thinking that you will be able to effectivly use this stuff your first time out.
fortunatly for most of us, not having this stuff when we start requires us to climb with more experienced individuals, the rack is then aquired along the way as is the experience to use it.
|
|
|
|
|
tragic_photography
May 17, 2005, 9:11 PM
Post #4 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 12, 2005
Posts: 99
|
Yeah, 3 sets is a lot, I know. But I lend a lot of my existing gear out so I like having extras around. Plus, I climb a lot of very uniform cracks. The eight is for different things, I've got some odd ideas in mind plus I like using the to secure haul bags and such. Thanks for answering, farewell, God Bless. ~Tragic
|
|
|
|
|
areuinclimber
May 17, 2005, 9:12 PM
Post #5 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2004
Posts: 436
|
your going to get aaaaaaaallllllotaaaaa answers.......
but you should research instead and decide from there.
basically any new cam thats out whether by trango, black diamond, or wildcountry, or one of those bigger named (and thus proven quality) brands wont do ya wrong, for your first dont by cams that "you'll replace later" cuz they last a long time when cared for properly and not eaten by a crack for breakfast (or brunch?). they are all pretty much equal besides minor differences like sping tension, trigger blah, blah, whine, blah, blah.
although if you get into big stuff (ow, chimney's) go with wildcountry, damn they make a solid 6.
|
|
|
|
|
tragic_photography
May 17, 2005, 9:50 PM
Post #6 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 12, 2005
Posts: 99
|
Hey areuinclimber. I have researched. Really, I'm just replacing all my old gear. I love that Wild Country 6, I have one but my friend is borrowing it at the moment! I'm still a fan of solid stems but I do like flexible stems on some climbs =). Chimneys =S, I hate 'em lol. I'm interested in trying out some of the new OmegaPac link cams. It's a brilliant innovation. Well, thanks for the advice =). Farewell, God Bless. ~Tragic
|
|
|
|
|
tragic_photography
May 17, 2005, 10:07 PM
Post #7 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 12, 2005
Posts: 99
|
Hey euroford. Thanks for answering. Here's the deal, I have been leading trad for about hmmm 4-5 years I guess. I lead a moderate 5.11.
This is really an all around rack.
Hexes, I am a big hex guy.
Draws, I keep 14 8" draws around for sport. I'm just looking at replacing them.
Stoppers, DMM's are really good, I was impressed when I used my friends Wallnuts.
Rope, I like having two for a few reasons, such as if you're hiking about 28 miles to send a big wall. Then, you don't want to have one get a core shot when you're that far in. I also like a thicker one for using with beginners. I also like a 70m because you can always use that extra 10 meters.
Rope bag, an absolute lifesaver sometimes.
Wiregates are for my stoppers and the new cams.
I need to find the lightest ovals that I can find...Any ideas?
Crash pad is for using on tough starts and for bouldering.
Daisy chains are for using as gear slings and other various things.
Figure eight is for various uses. Rescue scenarios usually.
I like my nut tool that I have, a Grivel (Italian) with a wrench built into the handle in 3 sizes.
I don't have a disposable income lol. My parents don't support my hobbies at all. I work 16 hours days as a finish drywaller. Disposable income Ha lol.
When I first started climbing I bought a set of stoppers and spent hours just placing them in cracks near the ground and then removing them, experimenting with different scenarios. Oh well =). My fault for not further explaining myself lol. Farewell, God Bless. ~Tragic
|
|
|
|
|
cupton
May 17, 2005, 10:09 PM
Post #8 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 23, 2003
Posts: 299
|
Is your old gear for sale?
|
|
|
|
|
tragic_photography
May 17, 2005, 10:16 PM
Post #9 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 12, 2005
Posts: 99
|
In reply to: Is your old gear for sale? |
|
|
|
|
tradklime
May 17, 2005, 10:39 PM
Post #10 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 1235
|
My 2 cents:
-get 4-6 8" draws and the rest 24" slings. The others are uneccessary, unless you are setting a lot of TR anchors, if so, use webbing.
-Why so many lockers? 1 for belay and 2 for anchors is enough, unless you plan on setting elaborate TR anchors.
-Skip the Hexes, really. If you insist, get one each of the largest 3 sizes, and that's it.
-Limit your nuts to the same brand, and get 1 full set + double up in middle sizes (=1.5 set). Include micro nuts.
-Get ballnutz, sizes 2-4.
-Cams (double set up to #4 friend + one 5 and 6): get aliens, and then get Wild Country or DMM for larger sizes.
-Skip the figure 8.
The above will allow you to climb almost anywhere, with the possible exception of Indian Creek, where you will need at least 4+ cams of each size (i.e. borrow).
|
|
|
|
|
ebelay
May 17, 2005, 10:59 PM
Post #11 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 5, 2002
Posts: 195
|
replacing gear after only 5 years? rrright.
it's okay to admit you're a beginner. really, it is....
|
|
|
|
|
tragic_photography
May 17, 2005, 11:07 PM
Post #12 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 12, 2005
Posts: 99
|
In reply to: replacing gear after only 5 years? rrright. it's okay to admit you're a beginner. really, it is....
Lol, dude, I'm catching hell with this post. no, I'm not a beginner. My gear was bought used. That's why it needs replaced. I've been using some of the very first Wild Country cams ever produced, I'll send you photos if you'd like lol. My stoppers are all ancient BD's. Oh well. Beleive what you must =). Farewell, God Bless you. ~Tragic
|
|
|
|
|
tradrenn
May 18, 2005, 2:36 AM
Post #13 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
|
Did you just win a lottery ?
That's way too much.
|
|
|
|
|
letolives
May 18, 2005, 2:45 AM
Post #14 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2004
Posts: 95
|
Do you ever watch Dr. 90210? Well if you got the cash Dr. Rey can set you up with a good rack.
|
|
|
|
|
tragic_photography
May 18, 2005, 5:14 AM
Post #15 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 12, 2005
Posts: 99
|
In reply to: Did you just win a lottery ? That's way too much.
Lol, I've been saving money for a couple years now. I just throw $20 out of every hundred into a climbing account. I'm buying new gear finally this year so I'm going to use some of it. Farewell, God Bless. ~Tragic
|
|
|
|
|
climbinginchico
May 18, 2005, 5:28 AM
Post #16 of 16
(2596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 3032
|
Seems you have more money than knowledge. You have been leading for 5 years you say? Then you know what you like, and what you need. Think about it.
I personally use tripled 24" 8mm Mammut runners with wiregate biners.
I like BD cams, and Aliens for smaller stuff.
Not so big on the hexes. They are useful, but not that useful. I use BD and HB offset stoppers. Don't buy so much, and don't lend as much out.
The BD wiregate oval is the lightest oval I know of.
I like BD Positron lockers, they are light and keylock.
You know best what you need to do the routes. You have 5 years of experience? What have you been missing from your rack? :?
|
|
|
|
|
|
