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Rappel Retreats
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bponline


Jun 7, 2005, 10:01 PM
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Registered: Jan 28, 2005
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Rappel Retreats
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Not strictly a beginner's question, but looking for a little experience... When forced to back off a multipitch due to weather, time, whatever, is there a way to rappel from station to station without the need for an extra rope to tie to the lead rope and then around a fixed anchor? Or should I invest in a smaller diameter, lighter rope for this purpose? Thanks.


davidji


Jun 7, 2005, 10:15 PM
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Registered: Jan 30, 2003
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Re: Rappel Retreats [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Not strictly a beginner's question, but looking for a little experience... When forced to back off a multipitch due to weather, time, whatever, is there a way to rappel from station to station without the need for an extra rope to tie to the lead rope and then around a fixed anchor? Or should I invest in a smaller diameter, lighter rope for this purpose? Thanks.
Lots of choices, but no magic solutions. Assuming the rap or belay stations are further than 1/2 rope length apart, here are a few options:

1. Rap two ropes (or one rope + a pull cord).
2. Leave gear in the middle to rap from.
3. Downlead the climb.
4. Rap + a little downclimbing.
5. Walk off. Hey sometimes you can walk off of the middle of a climb.
6. BASE jump
7. Finish the climb quickly by whatever means necessary. Sometimes a quick finish is your best retreat.

What good choices did I miss?


timmy_t


Jun 7, 2005, 10:19 PM
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Registered: Dec 23, 2004
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Re: Rappel Retreats [In reply to]
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I've heard that if you just set up a real crappy anchor and simul-rap off it without any testing, that it is the fastest way off. Some might refer to this technique as free-solo rappeling.


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