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renohandjams
Jun 6, 2005, 7:41 PM
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The only thing I've heard about these zeros was from a WC rep, but I was wondering if anyone has taken a fall on any of these? I know the small ones are just for aid, but the larger ones are rated up to 9KN. I just wanted to know before I rack up on the larger Zero sizes (5 & 6). Because of the SUPER noodly flex in the stem I would feel comfortable placing them in a bottomed out vertical crack, but that's only if they do their job during a fall. I wouldn't have to worry about these walking as much because of the super flex.
Feed back on the zeros please.
-Kenny
"Bolts, the murder of the impossible"
http://www.TradRack.com-Buyer
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dirtineye
Jun 6, 2005, 10:26 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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Do a search on, "Zero Friends".
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cortezmachine
Jun 9, 2005, 11:25 PM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2005
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buddy of mine took a fall on the GREEN, it held.
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iceisnice
Jun 10, 2005, 6:03 PM
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took a small fall on the smallest piece (i think it was the grey one? it was my partner's so i'm not too familiar with the sizing). i was only 4 feet above the piece. it held. my partner had a hell of a time getting it out though cuz the trigger was hard to reach. i've heard of that problem from other people if they are placed too deep. ssem like good cams though.
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euroford
Jun 10, 2005, 6:09 PM
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grey would be the #3, very close in size to the black alien and IMO definitly sketchy but still occasionaly usefull for free climbing.
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tim
Jun 10, 2005, 6:14 PM
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I broke the trigger-wire-swage things on both a grey and a gold Zero after a few months. I don't know whether the grey broke while falling or being cleaned, but it got jacked up in Zion and I started using it as a passive piece.
Anyways, after that I decided that I liked Aliens better. They wear out eventually, and sometimes get stuff bent such that you have to un-cockeyes the thing while sketched out a bit on lead, but none of mine have ever become nonfunctional the way the Zeros did.
There is nothing wrong with my Zeros from a strength/structural perspective, I'm sure they'd still hold a fall (they still work for aid). But since their trigger-to-lobe attachment got messed up (yes I have tried to repair it), they are no longer terribly useful to me for anything other than thin aid, and even then I would prefer an Alien if I have one in the right size.
Obviously I am just one data point, but that's my experience with them.
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cortezmachine
Jun 11, 2005, 12:05 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: buddy of mine took a fall on the GREEN, it held. yikes. that sucker is awfully small for that kind of action! i only took it aiding once and though i was gunna break the fuking thing just standing on it. i have since stuffed it in my 'drawer of retired and useless gear'. did he put a screamer on it?
no screamer, 6 or 7 ft fall
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dirtineye
Jun 11, 2005, 1:43 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: buddy of mine took a fall on the GREEN, it held. yikes. that sucker is awfully small for that kind of action! i only took it aiding once and though i was gunna break the fuking thing just standing on it. i have since stuffed it in my 'drawer of retired and useless gear'. did he put a screamer on it?
Can I have your green zero?
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renohandjams
Jun 20, 2005, 4:29 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2005
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I just got a set of the zeroes and I haven't fallen on any of them, but I feel very confident placing the larger sizes, as for the tiny guys I watched my partner take messy fall when one of the smaller sizes popped.
-Kenny
------------------------
TradRack.com SuperStore
Free Email Accounts, yourname@TradRack.com, only 100 to give
Click here to see if your name is available
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adeptus
Jun 20, 2005, 5:44 PM
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In reply to: ... Obviously I am just one data point, but that's my experience with them.
I had a yellow Zero that broke the wire/cam attachment (the wire jumped out of its socket). My second couldn't clean it and messed it up, because he overcammed it.
So I went back to the store and got it replaced free of charge.
But the same thing happened when I was climbing with another guy.
I'm done with Zeros until they make a better design.
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thedus
Jun 20, 2005, 5:46 PM
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Registered: Jun 10, 2004
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I took a twenty footer onto the gray (#3). No big deal, though it would have been had it not been placed absolutely correctly - the smallest of these have almost no margin for error.
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renohandjams
Jun 22, 2005, 4:45 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2005
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In reply to: - the smallest of these have almost no margin for error.
I agree, its hard to complain when your degree of error is a couple of mm. If it pops it seems like it is the users fault, & or the rock unless you can see visible damage on the lobes.
I really wish I had gotten a set of the larger zeros to place instead of the smaller tech friends. As far as the really small size, I think I'll stick to my nuts instead for now.
-Kenny
------------------------
TradRack.com SuperStore
Free Email Accounts, yourname@TradRack.com, only 100 to give
Click here to see if your name is available
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dontmaytagme
Jun 29, 2005, 5:39 PM
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Registered: Jun 1, 2003
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I've whipped on the #4 (yellow?) and it held. My adrenaline was going through the roof at that moment, so, in retrospect, i was ready for anything. :p
Though it is not a whipper on the green, (wow and WTF?), it still held.
ja.
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far_east_climber
Jun 30, 2005, 9:48 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2003
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Hmm, I had a yellow rip out on P6 of the Prow. Well... my partner did. User error in my opinion as he kind of just threw himself onto it without even a minimal test. Back in the UK I have seen people use the purple for pro on grit stone. I have heard of a man who took a sucessful fall onto an equalised purple zero and micronut. I really love how it flexes up to the head. They are a prime competitor to Aliens, in my opinion.
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snoop_dog
Jul 6, 2005, 3:56 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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I have taken falls on the yellow and blue. The blue has taken the most punishment and I am confident with it. However, they tend to be a problem when removing due to the flex and small trigger with my large hands. I have lost the yellow and red because I was unable to get them out before it got dark. have fun taking whippers. snoop
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