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vanman2004
May 23, 2005, 6:39 PM
Post #26 of 40
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Registered: May 17, 2005
Posts: 23
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That is a *lot* of gear. Granted, I live in texas, where the climbs are short, but that seems excessive. Drop a couple of cams and you will far exceed the weight benefit of switching to wiregates and thinner webbing.
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blakester
May 23, 2005, 6:54 PM
Post #27 of 40
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Registered: Dec 20, 2004
Posts: 142
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Neutrinos aren't very good biners!
Omega Pacific Dovals are bigger, same weight, less money, more usefull shape.
Trango Lightweight Wiregates are cheaper, larger, and equal weight.
Trango superflies are bigger, 6 grams less, and equal $$
CAMP nano-wires are the same size, and 6 grams less, and less $$
WC heliums are bigger, keylocking, 3 grams less, but more $$
DMM Shield is bigger, keylocking, 4 grams less, but more $$
DMM Spectre is bigger, fancy colors, 3 grams less, but more $$$
Neutrino's aren't especially good compared to the above models, and English made carabiners are fancy, but costly. Considering weight, price, and size, there is always a better biner than a neutrino, for any use. Plus BD gear is so popular, buck the trend.
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skateman
May 23, 2005, 7:38 PM
Post #28 of 40
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Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 186
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My rack is approx 10lbs. (sonsiderably more with skateman in it)
BD C4's .75 to #4
Metolius 00-#5
Tricams- 2 pink,1red,1brown
cordalette
webolette
1 set BD nuts
10 trad draws (spectra) Doval racking end with heliums at rope end
3 quickdraws
(2) 48" slings
6 lockers (super-flys)
Add another 2lb. for the #5, #6 C4 which I haven't used yet!
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norushnomore
May 24, 2005, 9:03 AM
Post #29 of 40
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414
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You can get your rack weight all way down down to 6lb by trying these extreme methods (if you don't like them then that's a sep problem).
Source:
http://www.clydesoles.com/ClydeSoles/Front/Camsbrand.html
1. get aliens from blue thru red (1/3 thru 1) 4 units - 11.2 oz
2. Then DMM yellow - red 3CU (1.5 - 1.75) 2 units 6.4 oz
3. And finish it with the DMM 4CU purple thru blue (2-3) 3 units 13.2 oz
10 cams at 11.2 + 6.4 + 13.2 = 30.8 oz * 28.5g = 877g or under 2 pounds!
Double rack at full 18 cams less then 4 pounds ( perfect 5 pounds with 18
biners)
Add 6 helium trad draws (shoulder lengh, clip dmm cams double slings directly) ~350g
Add Metolius PAS with one locking biner (~100g) and one set of
http://www.mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/nuts/wildcountrysuperlightrocks.htm
(~100g)
ATC plus a second locking biner ~100g
you are at about 6lb now with 18 cams and a set of nuts and enough slings
for most climbs
Use rope and PAS to build your belay stations
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euroford
May 24, 2005, 12:02 PM
Post #30 of 40
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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we all love aliens, but i bet if you swapped those out for WC zero's you would get even more savings.
oh yeah, and all that bad stuff that other d00d said about nuetrinos, don't listen to him, nuetrino's rule. my two favorite biners are neutrinos and dmm prowires.
op dovals are the ones that suck. you can't tell which end is which and they don't clip very smoothly.
another biner i really like is the bd ovalwire. probobly the best budget wiregate around. 45g, under $5.
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brutusofwyde
Jun 10, 2005, 8:58 PM
Post #31 of 40
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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I weighed my backcountry rack last night: 7 pounds.
It consists of a set of WC Rocks (minus the two largest sizes) racked on two carabiners
a set of (4) Alien Hybrids on a single carabiner
Yellow and Red aliens on a single carabiner
The remainder racked on individual carabiners:
One 0.5 Camalot
two 0.75 Camalots
doubles (DMM quadcams and Stregor Titanium 4 cams) of
sizes #2, #2.5, #3, #3.5
One #5 and one #6 Lowe Tricams.
Carabiners are Kong Helium keygate for the DMM cams, and Nanos for the other pieces.
To this I add 20 free carabiners, 10 shoulder length dyneema runners, and two double-length dyneema runners.
OTOH, My big wall rack often weighs in at over 60 pounds.
Brutus
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euroford
Jun 10, 2005, 9:56 PM
Post #32 of 40
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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climbing with a light rack is a wonderfull thing. when we get to CO in a couple weeks we plan to burn up the 1st flatirons direct route as a mild warm up. i put together the rack we'll use out of dmms 1-3.5 (without 1/4 sizes), wc zero's 5 & 6, 6 bd nuts a couple of sprectra draws and a couple of dynema slings all laced together with dmm prowires and bd nuetrino's. it will be damn good fun flying up mild and long terrain with a sub 4lb. rack for a change.
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dbarandiaran
Jun 10, 2005, 11:14 PM
Post #33 of 40
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 113
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I have been trying to reduce the weight of my rack as well. In reading these posts, I am somewhat surprised at the number af cams that a lot of you carry. I normally carry one set friends 1 to 3.5 including 1/4 sizes, metolius TCU sizes 0-3, set of hexes and a set of nuts. Now I am experimenting with a rack of friends 1.5-3.5 no quarters, TCU 1-3, set of hexes, and a set and a half of nuts. thats only 8 cams, and seems a little light in that department, but it seems to me that before I had a lot of gear and never used it all. Besides I like to use passive gear as much as possilble, and since I don't climb harder than 5.8 usually have good stances for gear placing. Maybe as i go up in difficulty I will change my plan.
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caughtinside
Jun 10, 2005, 11:21 PM
Post #34 of 40
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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In reply to: I have been trying to reduce the weight of my rack as well. In reading these posts, I am somewhat surprised at the number af cams that a lot of you carry. I normally carry one set friends 1 to 3.5 including 1/4 sizes, metolius TCU sizes 0-3, set of hexes and a set of nuts. Now I am experimenting with a rack of friends 1.5-3.5 no quarters, TCU 1-3, set of hexes, and a set and a half of nuts. thats only 8 cams, and seems a little light in that department, but it seems to me that before I had a lot of gear and never used it all. Besides I like to use passive gear as much as possilble, and since I don't climb harder than 5.8 usually have good stances for gear placing. Maybe as i go up in difficulty I will change my plan.
Ditch those hexes, voila, lighter rack! 8^)
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cortezmachine
Jun 10, 2005, 11:49 PM
Post #36 of 40
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Registered: Apr 12, 2005
Posts: 95
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soon as the max cams come out, im building a new rack. it will consist of
1- set of trango max cams
12- mammut dyneema slings
30 camp nanowire carabiners (6 for cams, 24 for slings)
2- red and pink tri cams
1- set black diamond stoppers
1- atc
1- black diamond mini pear belay biner
4- omega pacific Doval carabiners (1 for nuts, 1 for tri cams, 2 spare)
4- trango superfly locking carabiners
1 light ass nut tool
1- 20ft cord, 6mm
all together--- 5.2 LBS
depending on the route, replace the heavier large max cams with a few lightweight wild countrys or aliens and the weight is dropped a bit.
yes i know im a freak
*edit* im debating on whether to add a a few hexes to that list
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brutusofwyde
Jun 11, 2005, 3:23 PM
Post #38 of 40
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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In reply to: thats only 8 cams, and seems a little light in that department, but it seems to me that before I had a lot of gear and never used it all. Besides I like to use passive gear as much as possilble, and since I don't climb harder than 5.8 usually have good stances for gear placing. Maybe as i go up in difficulty I will change my plan.
I would feel comfortable heading up a grade V, 5.9 or 5.10 in the backcountry with my rack, or an FA, unless I knew there were wide cracks on the route.
The rack takes into account the possibility of sequential hanging gear belays. Hexes are lighter, but I have been burned too many times with flaring and other non-hex-friendly placements to take them.
I'd use hexes on easy (for me) routes in the 5.4 to 5.7 range, but my BC trips usually include harder goals.
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dbarandiaran
Jun 11, 2005, 11:20 PM
Post #39 of 40
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 113
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In reply to: In reply to: I have been trying to reduce the weight of my rack as well. In reading these posts, I am somewhat surprised at the number af cams that a lot of you carry. I normally carry one set friends 1 to 3.5 including 1/4 sizes, metolius TCU sizes 0-3, set of hexes and a set of nuts. Now I am experimenting with a rack of friends 1.5-3.5 no quarters, TCU 1-3, set of hexes, and a set and a half of nuts. thats only 8 cams, and seems a little light in that department, but it seems to me that before I had a lot of gear and never used it all. Besides I like to use passive gear as much as possilble, and since I don't climb harder than 5.8 usually have good stances for gear placing. Maybe as i go up in difficulty I will change my plan. Ditch those hexes, voila, lighter rack! 8^)
no way, dude! I love my hexes and use them all the time! I say to all those that carry a double set of cams, ditch those doubles and pick up some hexes! That will lighten up the load!
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dudemanbu
Sep 9, 2005, 5:11 PM
Post #40 of 40
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Registered: Jun 3, 2005
Posts: 941
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mine's just about 5 lbs.
4-13 bd nuts
0-1.5 (doubles in 1 and 1.5) wc flex friends
WC zeros 5,6
7 bd spectra runners
two larger, old trango 4 cams.
20 omegalite 4.0 wiregates for racking/runners
1 bd ovalwire (came with nuts)
6 bd light D's
2 lockers
1 cordolette
voila.
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