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mookmook
Jun 7, 2005, 5:16 PM
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i'm still pretty new to climbing and i find i have a lot of trouble with confidence. not like trusting my shoes or anything persay, i have no problem with that. but i've started climbing with a bunch of big guys who just muscle their way up, and while i'm sure i have much better footwork and stuff than them, i can't help but feel shitty about myself when they get higher than i do just because of height or upper body strength. anyone have advice on how to be more confident, and to use my short height to my advantage? i'm only 5'0.
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rockhound71
Jun 7, 2005, 5:48 PM
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Since you are relatively new, the best thing to do is to give it time. Work on your technique and your lead head. And don't think about your height or how strong you are. Technique is more important than any of those factors. Most of my friends are taller than I am and probably stronger, but they still don't climb as well because they need to work on their technique rather than powering up a route. Lead head is just as important, because if you are afraid to make a move or use a certain technique, you won't commit to it.
C
____________________________
"I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over and through me. And when it is gone I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain." --The Bene Gesserit Litany against fear, Dune, Frank Herbert
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dingus
Jun 7, 2005, 5:53 PM
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Mileage.
The performance of others ir irrelevant, as is their height and strength (easy to say, harder to put out of mind of course).
And remember, Lynn Hill is 5.0 and she remains the only person on earth to free climbed the Nose of El Cap in a Day. Lots of taller and stronger climbers tried before and after her and she still remains the only one to do it.
Mileage.
DMT
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acacongua
Jun 7, 2005, 6:03 PM
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Definitely give it time! Over time, you'll become more comfortable with climbing, you'll get stronger and you'll develop endurance. It doesn't happen over night or in a month, but you'll see improvement.
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fourteenersforfun
Jun 12, 2005, 7:56 PM
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Climbing "better" will come with reps. As for confidence, ask yourself why your climbing in the first place? If it's to outclimb your buddies....fine...then pony up and throw and go. Many of the best AND most humble climbers I know keep hittin the crag for the same reason. It's about you and the rock. The rock doesn't change and it doesn't care. So managing your body (technique) and HEAD becomes the issue. In short Climb for yourself and your technique will take you above the muscleing of the posers.
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lvclimbingbum
Jun 12, 2005, 8:29 PM
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In reply to: anyone have advice on how to be more confident, and to use my short height to my advantage? i'm only 5'0.
I'm only 5' 2" but have been climbing for about two years. Because most of the people I climb with are older and way taller, I've learned technique quicker and better. Lots of times, when we play add on, they make a really reachy move, which takes technique and core. I also use my height to my advantage. I do tons of little moves that you have to keep your core tight and be close to the wall. Just wait, the time will come when the get down on their knees, kiss your feet, and beg for mercy.
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overlord
Jun 13, 2005, 11:35 AM
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dont worry. confidence will come with time.
and in average it doesnt matter how big you are. some routes will be harder, but others will be easier.
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superflea
Jun 13, 2005, 4:39 PM
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Mileage helps more than anything I can think of. Try to have as much fun as you can while you're out there. I find I can't really rely on watching bigger/taller partners to get beta on a particular route. I'll take note of particular holds, perhaps, but usually ignore how they got there since I know I have to do it a different way. Take heart, as well, knowing that there are lots of climbs out there that are going to be better suited for your build and style. I tend to do better on delicate slabs than some of my friends, and am finding I have an advantage in small cracks as well. Finger cracks for me are often impossible for my partner to use! Confidence will come with you finding out just how much you're capable of.
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kimgraves
Jun 13, 2005, 5:05 PM
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Dingus points out correctly that Lynn Hill is the only person to have climbed the Nose in a day and she’s only 5’0”. But more impressive is she’s the only person to have free climbed the Nose at all. And she did is close to 10 years ago – a lot of people have tried since. But Lynn Hill is a world-class athlete – which I certainly, and you probably, are not. Her height, her sex, her age and your height, sex and age are not an impediment. The limiting factor is your brain.
The real issue is why do you feel s*hitty about yourself if someone else on your crew is climbing better than you? Feeling bad about yourself is useless. It doesn’t help you get better. It’s not good for you emotionally. Remember, there will always be someone better than you. There will always be someone better than any one of your friends. Climbing to be “the best” is just not sustainable. Find another reason: climbing is fun; it takes you to radical places; it puts you in touch with your deepest emotions; it helps you learn things about yourself and your friends. And keep climbing.
Have fun, Kim
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chadnsc
Jun 13, 2005, 5:06 PM
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Listen to Dingus.
You are always going to run into someone taller, shorter, stronger, or with better technique, etc. Because of this some people will climb different (not necessarily better) than you. Don't worry about it and just climb. The rest will follow.
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dirtineye
Jun 13, 2005, 5:12 PM
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Study the technical aspects of climbing, and observe how the short climbers who are good make their moves.
Work on your ability to hold on and work on your balance.
BOULDER.
Climb some cracks. You don't muscle your way up a crack, and height is irrelevant.
The whole confidence thing relates to your comfort on the rock. If you know you can hang out for a long time and figure out the sequence, confidence is not an issue.
BTW, muscling your way up stuff is usually not the best way.
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noman668
Jun 14, 2005, 2:50 AM
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I'm six-foot-three and, without a doubt, my height has hindered my technique in many ways. Rather than working a particular delicate sequence, I always find myself trying to throw the big reach move/dyno and skip what i'm having trouble with. Now if the goal is simply getting higher, this usually works for me...but doesn't necessarily make me better. What I'd give to have the technique (and weight!) of a five-two friend...What I can often bypass, he has had to learn to climb.
Don't beat yourself up.
If not climbing for fun, then why bother?
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crshbrn84
Jun 14, 2005, 3:06 AM
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when it comes to height it depends on the problems and the experience, one of my best climbing partners is 4ft 10in a tiny little girl but she could grab and hold onto any little feature in the rock, and now she is bouldering v5 and im still at v2/v3. Everyone in this forum is saying the right things, mileage. Just train, and practice and most of all have fun. try climbing with different people because everyone has their own style, take what you can from them and apply it towards your own climbing. Well climb on and have fun. Dont worry your will get where you want to go, it just may take some time.
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mookmook
Jun 14, 2005, 4:35 AM
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yea. i would really like to climb with some shorties just to see other people in my circumstance. i have never even really climbed with another female. so if any shorties in the l.a. area wanna climb, let me know.
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itstoearly
Jun 25, 2005, 3:53 PM
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I am also pretty new to climbing, but I have a fine example of how height can hinder skill development. Granted, I have only been able to climb indoors so far, but it still applies.
Our gym (Green Mountain Rock Cimbing Center in Rutland, VT) has a route that I have recently started doing. The first 3 holds go like this: the first 2 are about 3 or 4 feet off the ground, and are right next to each other at almost the same height. The 3rd one is about 5 feet to the right and roughly 8 feet from the ground. Now, the intended way to start the route is to grab one of the first 2 holds and pull yourself up onto them and do a balancing act (since the next hold is out of reach until you are sturdily standig on the first 2), and then lean over and third grip. I was having trouble with this start (I am 6 feet tall), so instead of working at it until I could do it, I jumped up and was able to grab onto the third hold. Later on I realized that while yes, I had completed the route, I learned less by doing it this way. So I went back and learned how to balance myself onto the first 2 holds. Being tall can definately have it's disadvantages.
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 27, 2005, 12:51 PM
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In reply to: The limiting factor is your brain.
...and heredity.
Others have said, but I want to reemphasize it. DO NOT compare yourself to others, epsecially big apes who are muscling their way up climbs. Keep concentrating on your technique, and sooner or later they will be wondering why you are getting up things that they keep falling off. In the real world, there are climbs that favor the big strong, tall apemen, and there are climbs who favor the shorter climber with better flexibility and balance.
Josh
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