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pt
Jun 11, 2005, 9:45 PM
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I'm planning to do the regular route on Half Dome in August. My wife and I are hoping to do the route for our 15th anniversary! Any way, I'm curious what the aid pitches are like. Is there a lot of fixed gear, are they straight forward, etc... I would also like to ask about the two aider method. Most of the walls I have done have been pure aid routes and I used a four aider system. I'm thinking two aiders would be much lighter and simpler for a route like half dome. We are planning on two days on the wall with very minimal bivi gear in a backback that the second will jug with. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
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the_dude
Jun 11, 2005, 10:34 PM
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Two aiders is the way to go. One aider on your peice and use your other foot for balance. I find that I spend less time hanging out with the two aider system vs four. Less of a cluster too. Your logistics seem right on. have a great time.
Cheers
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asandh
Jun 12, 2005, 12:18 AM
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:)
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texplorer
Jun 12, 2005, 6:24 AM
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I respectfully disagree with sandh,
I think the second should jug with the pack. Just hang it from beneath clipped to your belay loop so its not pulling you over backwards
Yes, the aid pitches are straightforward and have a good bit of fixed stuff.
Take a double rack to #3 camalot (maybe one 3.5)
My partner and I didn't use a single nut on the entire climb!
Two aiders? YES
Carpe Diem-
Tex
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pt
Jun 12, 2005, 2:39 PM
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Thanks guys, that's the stuff I'm looking for. My wife has been practicing jugging and also aiding with two aiders so she should be ready. I think we will practice jugging with a pack and see what she thinks. Another possibility is to have a very tiny pig that we haul and a small pack that the second jugs with, in that way, the load could be split up into two very manageable portions. I think we will do some block leading with one of us leading 2-5 pitches at a time depending on difficulty breakdown.
How are temps up there in late August? With a good high pressure system do you think we could get by with thinsulate jackets and rain gear and no sleeping bags?
Thanks again - Jeff
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asandh
Jun 12, 2005, 3:01 PM
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:)
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pt
Jun 12, 2005, 3:13 PM
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In reply to: I've done the route in late July when it was baking in the valley and temps were fine on the route. Remember -- its called Northwest Face of Half Dome. Quite a bit of shade as I remember. The caution I am trying to make, and the reason I suggest hauling, is that unless you plan to do the route in One day, you really should go prepared. Half Dome tops out at 8800 ft and gets a lot more weather than the valley. It can snow or be really hot. I have a friend who got caught in a freak snow storm while climbing HD Direct many years ago in JULY. He wasn't prepared and survived out of luck.
I definately am listening to your advice. If it wasn't my wife, I would just try to do it in a day, but I want her to be able to lead pitches and have a good adventure. I don't think she'll be fast enough to do it in a day, but I also don't want her having to haul a big pig. Anyway, good advice so far.
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asandh
Jun 12, 2005, 3:25 PM
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:)
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euroford
Jun 12, 2005, 3:31 PM
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i would haul without question. you'll be much more efficiant that way.
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sspssp
Jun 12, 2005, 8:41 PM
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If you truly go up there when there is a stable high pressure system and an excellant forecast (as opposed to circling a date on the calender and starting up regardless of the forecast) then I would say you could go pretty light on the bivy gear. Skip the sleeping bags and take more in the way of jackets and some sort of bivy (even if it is just an emergency space bag). I've been benighted on long valley climbs when I didn't have any bivy gear (to speak of) and been fine in summer (when there was a high pressure system).
The downside, if there is a high pressure system, the temps will be hot and even though Half Dome is shaded until afternoon, you will want a lot of water.
I've not hauled on Half Dome, but if I was going to do it as a single overnighter, I would have the second jug with a pack.
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texplorer
Jun 13, 2005, 7:42 AM
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After rereading the initial post I guess I didn't see that your going to be up there for 2 days. In this case it would probably be ok to haul.
One more warning: Your night up there on the wall is probably going to suck. I really don't remember any good ledges up there. I agree with the previous poster talking about going for it in one day. If this is not possible for you guys then maybe pack some hammocks or something like that. Hell, I guess you could even tug a portaledge if your hauling anyway.
good luck,
Tex
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asandh
Jun 13, 2005, 3:21 PM
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:)
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cragmasterp
Jun 13, 2005, 3:49 PM
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I did this route in a day and a half push in early sept. 99. We found it much easier for the second to free-climb instead of jugging, with the occasional french free move. Most pitches are 5.9 or easier, and it was much less strenuous for the second to just climb. also there is a fair amount of low angle rock and traversing, which makes hauling diffucult.
We blasted up to big sandy and fixed the two aid pitches above before bivying. this made for and easy 2nd day, and we topped out before noon.
We only took a small backpack that the second followed with. we dressed warmly (capilene and fleece layers) and only took food, water, and a light shell each in the pack. Not a very plush belay, but no hauling either.
All the aid was straightforward and most could be french freed.
Have fun and congrats on the 15th!
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flamer
Jun 13, 2005, 5:39 PM
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Just climbed this route On June 1st. There is a ton of fixed gear in all the aid pitch's, and alot of other spots. Fixed ropes on the death slabs are good.
Rack: 1(and a half) set nuts. NO RP'S.
Cams single green alien through #3 camalot. Double up on Yellow alien through #2 camalot(you could use 2 #3's but only onthe pitch leading to big sandy.
You couln't pay me to haul on this route. It's mostly low angle, with alot of traversing and broken terrain. Hauling would be a nightmare.
josh
Edit...I forgot bring 2 standard cam hooks.
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semorrison
Jun 15, 2005, 5:56 AM
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Here's something you might consider, to save the bivy.
A friend and I did Half Dome two years ago (in October, I think), and took 4 ropes up to the base of the wall. With these, we fixed the first 6 (!) pitches that same afternoon. The next day, we got up early, jumared in the dark, and were at the top of pitch 10 by about 8pm! It slows down a bit from there on, but we still made it to the top well before sunset. (Plenty of french free -- at that point I was struggling on valley 10a!)
Alternatively, >>if<< you pick a good weather slot, carrying a light backpack can work very well. Last year I did the Nose in 2 days, bivying at Camp 5. The second carried a backpack containing 10L of water, two down jackets, two space blankets, a tub of pasta, and basically *nothing* else!
Have fun out there!
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flamer
Jun 15, 2005, 3:09 PM
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In reply to: were at the top of pitch 10 by about 8pm!
Did you mean 8 AM??
josh
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mikeehartley
Jun 15, 2005, 11:00 PM
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Pt,
I've both hauled a bag and done it in a day with the second jumaring with a pack "loaded" with water and bivy gear. Both were fun. Neither were epic. I can't remember the bag ever getting hung up (it was light though). It sounds like you've thought it through enough that you'll have fun either way. The key is to have a system that matches you and your wife that will allow you to have fun. The only nightmare would be if you get bad weather. Have a hoot!
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erdeneruc
Jun 17, 2005, 8:59 PM
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When you leave the Sandy Ledges and get to the top of the Zig-Zags, make sure to set up your belay station level with the Thank God Ledge.
You will get great pictures of your partner walking the plank, then struggling to drop to hands.
Be careful with the rope eater crack when you haul that pitch. We clipped the haul line into the pro as well for a short distance, then my partner was able to lower off the pig part way across the ledge.
Great route, you will love it.
Erden.
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pt
Jun 18, 2005, 12:05 AM
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Thanks Everybody! I appreciate all the advice and insight. I'll try to do a little TR when it's all said and done.
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bandycoot
Jun 18, 2005, 12:31 AM
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In reply to: You will get great pictures of your partner walking the plank, then struggling to drop to hands.
Real men walk it...
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guanoboy
Jul 8, 2005, 8:39 PM
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bandycoot-
did you walk it? I tried a couple times it seemed impossible - must be my gut.
k
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guanoboy
Jul 8, 2005, 8:45 PM
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oh yeah PT-
I've bivied at big sandy and climbed it in a day. Both were fun, but after doing the bivy i was determined to come back and do it w/o the bag. When we bivied we hand-over-hand hauled or the second climbed w/ the pack. Simulclimbing the 4-5 pitches in the lower middle section really speeds things up. It is definitely one of my favorite climbs anywhere. For some encouragement, i've been benighted on the DNB but i've made it up half dome in a day with time to spare.
k
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climbhigher
Jul 10, 2005, 8:23 PM
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Listen to Pmyche and flamer. They know what they are talking about.
Good Luck and have lots of fun!!!
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Kironkid
Jan 30, 2009, 4:12 PM
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We did it with a standard free climbing rack. We didn't place too many camming units, that route loves Hexes and Stoppers. Lower pitches are a pain to haul on and aid pitches are easy and straight forward.
Kiron Kid
(This post was edited by Kironkid on Jan 30, 2009, 4:13 PM)
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