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pgrubbswt
Jun 13, 2005, 4:40 PM
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I'll be in Idaho later in the summer and i was wondering if there is enough sport climbing at City of Rocks to make a stop worth while.
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litedawg
Jun 13, 2005, 5:05 PM
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depends.
At what level do you climb?
There are five or six in the 5.7- 5.8 range. That is what I climb so that is what I know.
There are maybe a dozen in the 5.10 to 5.12 range.
There are some really great routes, definitely worth a day or two of your time.
Theatre of Shadows is a must if you make a stop.
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mccallew
Jun 13, 2005, 5:30 PM
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There is plenty of sport climbing at CoR. The nature of the area sees much of it scattered about, but around every formation you'll find more routes. Spent two days there last summer climbing in the 10a - 12b range and wished I had a couple of more days. Our rack consisted of only a set of RPs, so sport was definitely our objective (though I did lead the mixed route (1 bolt) to the right of Tribal Boundaries with just the set of RPs. Both routes are very good 5.10s!
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ryanb
Jun 13, 2005, 5:40 PM
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I haven't been there in a year or two but unless some serious chopping has occured there are way more routs then that at the City. It got hit with the rap bolting craze as much as anywhere. Definetly worth a stop no matter what your level. Tribal Boundries is super fun (really easy 5.10 I think) whatever the 11/12 to the right of it is (Quest for fire?). Scream cheese/swiss cheese (5.7? lead which ever one has a reasonable number of bolts and TR the other) are more moderate but still classic... everything on bath rock is great (mostly 5.10+ unless you trad)... be willing to walk down into the inner city...(away from bath rock, the bread loaves, parking lot rock and the crowds). There are literaly hundreds of sport routs scatterd around that place...even a couple of bolted multi pitch (Raindance?? 5.6??)
wow, I need to get back there soon.
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uncasid
Jun 13, 2005, 5:42 PM
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Castle rock is very near to CoR, check it out. Lots of sport climbing at all levels. When will you be there? I am going towards the middle of July, maybe would could hook up.
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qdiggety
Jun 13, 2005, 5:51 PM
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I was down there yesterday on Raindance. It was sunny, but windy. We were going to go over and do Theatre of Shadows on Jackson's Thumb, but we ended up running out of time. There are also a few places where you can climb up and set up a top rope as well.
You should also check out Castle Rocks. They are just around the corner from the City. There are a lot of bolts on the routes.
The previous weekend we spent Saturday in the City and Sunday over at Castle Rocks.
I would highly recommend you stop and check them both out if you are in the vicinity.
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qdiggety
Jun 13, 2005, 6:04 PM
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Here's a couple of books to check out if you are interested.
City of Rocks Idaho, A Climber's Guide by Dave Bingham.
Castle Rocks Idaho by Dave Bingham
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pgrubbswt
Jun 14, 2005, 3:10 PM
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Thanks for all the info guys. My buddy and i are going to be there around August 1st. If anybody's interested in showing a couple Texas flatlanders around, we'd really appreciate it. We're pretty solid at 5.10, done a few 5.11's. If anyone's interested let me know. thanks.
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hendicrimpin
Jun 14, 2005, 3:33 PM
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There are a ridiculous number of climbs - you should have no problem climbing there to your hearts content. The best granite SPORT climbing i've ever been on. Take some tape though, cause the granite can wear on you after a few days.
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jg
Jun 14, 2005, 9:28 PM
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I would think that you may find one or two sport routes in the City. Seriously, there is plenty to keep you busy for weeks. A little advice; the campsites can fill up, so it would be a good idea to reserve a spot if you know when you will be there. Go to the CoR national monument web site for info on reserving camp sites. August can be hot, but you can always find things in the shade.
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litedawg
Jun 14, 2005, 10:18 PM
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ryanb
Rap Bolts a sport climb does not make.
Many trad routes have bolted anchors and/or rap chains. A sport route is bolted all the way up. A route that has a few bolts, but requires you place some gear to protect serious runouts is called mixed.
There are very few sport (bolted) routes in the lower skill levels, 5.7 and 5.8., even 5.9.
There are a number in the more advanced levels, 5.11, 5.12.
City of Rocks is mostly trad area by tradition. Castle Rocks is a bolted sport area.
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nobody
Jun 16, 2005, 2:06 AM
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litedawg -
ryanb was referring to bolting on rappel, but we all appreciate the lesson! :roll:
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brianinslc
Jun 16, 2005, 6:37 AM
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In reply to: City of Rocks is mostly trad area by tradition. Castle Rocks is a bolted sport area.
Hmmm....
The City went through the sport climbing boom, in spades. Its an area that supports a nice mix of old trad, newer sport, and everything in between.
The Castle has a bunch of pure trad and "mixed" type routes (bolts + gear) as well as sports climbs. I'd say more trad than anything, though.
Not 100's of sports routes at either place in the 5.6 to 5.9 grades, but, enough to keep folks busy for a day or three. See KimmyT's TR.
Hmmm....
Brian in SLC
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