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yoda_viper
Jun 16, 2005, 4:39 PM
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Can anyone explain to me in detail how to set up a top belay system. The closest area to me with decent climbing has many routes that are over the water. If I have to bail I'll just use some sort of friction knot to climb the rope if that's a good idea. Any advise?
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j_ung
Jun 16, 2005, 4:55 PM
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I'm not trying to be a smart ass, but this is one of those times when hiring a guide might be a good option. A good guide can show you first hand all the necessary tricks that may be specific to the site you want to use. He or she can also show you a few different methods, so you can pick which best suits your needs. Personally, I think hiring a guide makes the most sense when you have a specific skillset that you want to learn. And certainly, the learning curve will be more pleasant than picking it up off the web. :)
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wjca
Jun 16, 2005, 5:05 PM
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In reply to: And certainly, the learning curve will be more pleasant than picking it up off the web. :)
And I would venture to say, a lot safer.
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bluenose
Jun 16, 2005, 5:08 PM
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If the water is deep enough why not just go in shorts and shoes? Bail is just a splash away.
There was an interesting top belay/rappel down setup in last month's (I think) Climbing mag.
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srwings
Jun 16, 2005, 6:12 PM
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My partners and I do top belays frequently at Great Falls, VA for two reasons- 1) during high water conditions the Potomac river makes the downclimb dangerous. The rule of thumb is that if you fall in you will drown. 2) We hate dragging all our gear to the base. It's pleasant to enjoy the nice cool breezes found at the top.
Here's a link to a previous thread-
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=82281
On page 2 I have an extensive post about the pros and cons of top roping top belays (is that redundant- "top roping top belays"?).
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crimpandgo
Jun 16, 2005, 6:21 PM
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In reply to: My partners and I do top belays frequently at Great Falls, VA for two reasons- 1) during high water conditions the Potomac river makes the downclimb dangerous. The rule of thumb is that if you fall in you will drown. 2) We hate dragging all our gear to the base. It's pleasant to enjoy the nice cool breezes found at the top. Here's a link to a previous thread- http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=82281 On page 2 I have an extensive post about the pros and cons of top roping top belays (is that redundant- "top roping top belays"?).
I have climbed at Great Falls several times and have been repeatedly warned about gear theft at the top of the cliffs. So, I always left as little gear as possible at the top. I hope your experiences are different, but just in case I thought I would bring it up :(
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jlc325i
Jun 16, 2005, 7:26 PM
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i'm kind of curious about this also...
If you're top roping where you're starting at the top (rappell down) and want to end at the top (climbing with a friend), couldn't both of you be at the bottom, one climb up, anchor in, and belay the other as he comes up? thoughts please
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mgoodro
Jun 16, 2005, 8:06 PM
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In reply to: couldn't both of you be at the bottom, one climb up, anchor in, and belay the other as he comes up? thoughts please
Exactly.
There are a few areas where we setup on top then rap down to begin. Like Rocky Butte in Portland or the mouth of Parley's Canyon in SLC. That's typically what we do when we're done.
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jlc325i
Jun 16, 2005, 8:19 PM
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To be honest, I think I would tweak from what I would think would be a "getting sucked down a cliff" feeling if the 2nd guy up falls... sure you're anchored in but ahhhhhhhh
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yoda_viper
Jun 24, 2005, 11:54 PM
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Thank you everyone for your advise. But I still have no good idea of what
I need to do to be able to safely setup a top belay. I'll just wait until I find someone who has climbed in the South Dakota Palisades State Park a lot. But thank you all for the advise again anyway.
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fourteenersforfun
Jun 26, 2005, 3:10 AM
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BASICALLY....to top belay you climb to the anchors and have your belayer take and hold while you anchor yourself independently to the anchors, using webbing, cord etc. I recently scored the Trango equalizer and it's sick....so easy to use. Anyway you anchor in....should use locking biners, pull up the slack, attatch your belay device, and your on belay. This is one basic process not considering all the other things you need to do, such as not untying the rope and dropping it, keeping your anchor and rope system clean, as well as rope management from an entirely different perspective and manner of taking it in. Not to mention communication with your partner. Bottom line....find someone who knows what they are doing and can walk you through it.
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 27, 2005, 12:42 PM
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In reply to: Thank you everyone for your advise. But I still have no good idea of what I need to do to be able to safely setup a top belay. I'll just wait until I find someone who has climbed in the South Dakota Palisades State Park a lot. But thank you all for the advise again anyway.
We can't tell you how to top belay. To have an understanding of how to do this, you need to have the ability to determine what you need to do for any given set of circumstances (i.e. what gear you have, what the top looks like (any trees, cracks, fixed anchors,etc.)). j_ung gave you the only advice you need....hire a guide (or go with someone experienced).
Josh
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landgolier
Jun 27, 2005, 1:28 PM
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Ok, I'm going to describe this in as minute detail as humanly possible:
Step 0: Learn to build bomber anchors
Step 1: Buy a reverso, B-52, GriGri, or GiGi
Step 2: RTFM
What I'm talking about is just belaying off the anchor with an autoblocking device. Not going to explain how to set the device up since it varies from device to device, but all you do is rig it, clip it in to your bomber anchor, and take in slack. Watch for rope abrasion over the edge, and you are golden.
Building bomber anchors is of course a skill, and setting the device up properly is something you ought do at home until you understand what's going on, but come on people, this thread sounds like Ask the Noob -- "OH MY GOD DON'T TRY THAT YOU'LL DIE, HIRE A GUIDE OR READ "CLIMBING ANCHORS" BY JOHN LONG EVEN THOUGH HE SAYS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING ABOUT TOPROPE ANCHORS AND EVEN THEN YOU CAN'T LEARN IT FROM A BOOK, SPEND AT LEAST 5 YEARS BEING BELAY BITCH, GEAR SHERPA, AND BEER FAIRY FOR AN EXPERIENCED TOP BELAY TOPROPER BEFORE EVER ATTEMPTING TO GO OUT ON YOUR OWN."
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rickrock77
Jun 27, 2005, 1:49 PM
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Go to someone at a climbing gym, who may have a club or something, maybe they can show you when they are out and about.
Otherwise, just hang around and when you spot someone else doing go and have a chat..
Climbers generally a socialable bunch, a lot more forgiving than some certain members of this particular community..
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bill413
Jun 27, 2005, 2:16 PM
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Not to forget - ANCHOR YOURSELF!
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landgolier
Jun 27, 2005, 2:38 PM
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You don't really need to anchor youself if top belaying off the anchor unless you are uncomfortable with where you are standing/sitting. Slopey hillside, maybe, but sitting around at the top at great falls shooing away tourons, no need.
Officious Touron: [fingers] "So what knot is this?"
Me: "It's a knot I tie that's supposed to convey the message 'hey, there's a person's life depending on this piece of gear, so please do not mess with this.' Apparently it doesn't work"
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