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shear
Jun 9, 2005, 1:10 PM
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so I was on this short 30 foot 5.10 at a local sport crag here. the distance between the 3rd and 4th bolts was a few feet, around 5 or so...as it was the crux of the route. I clipped the 3rd bolt, then worked up to the 4th, since the distance was really close, the 3rd bolt was at my waist and i was hugging this bulge and had to grab the rope blindly to clip. so i did, then moved up to the top out and felt massive tension, so i asked for slack so i could make the mantle final move to the top out. my friend was like, "i dont think you want anymore slack"...so i looked down and saw the zclip...and just as i did, the tension pulled me off and i took a fall...only a minor rope burn on the back of my leg and some humility learned.
needless to say, i pulled the rope from my figure 8 the rest of the day...i felt like a fool and am thankful nothing more happened. and i learned a lot in a short span of a few minutes.
i guess z clipping can be done outside.... :oops:
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ikefromla
Jun 9, 2005, 1:23 PM
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as long as you learn from your mistake you'll be better for it.
that being said... WHAT ARE YOU? STOOOOPID?
:wink:
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kimmyt
Jun 9, 2005, 2:18 PM
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Dude, shouldn't your belayer let you know when that happens? It's happened to a leader I was belaying and as he reached for the rope I quietly let him know he was grabbing the wrong end. He grabbed the other one, thanked me and moved on. No harm no foul.
If you're close to the ground and within sight of the belayer there shouldn't be a problem catching this unless the view is blocked by something or the belayer isn't paying attention.
K.
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shear
Jun 9, 2005, 3:06 PM
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the position i was in...he couldnt see a thing...the 3rd bolt was right at the top of the roof, on the face, then the 4th bolt was 5 feet away, the face was a rather big bulge, so i was hugging it, and the bolt(3rd) was at my waist, he couldnt see it. once i clipped the 4th was when everything happened...i dont blame him at all though.
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overlord
Jun 9, 2005, 5:09 PM
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an attentive belayer is the key here. sometimes, especially during some crux you just forget to look at where you grab the rope.
but if he couldnt see it, its not hes fault anyway.
i hope you learned something... it was really a really cheap lesson in this case.
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killclimbz
Jun 9, 2005, 5:15 PM
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Not so much that you should always grab from your knot, but make sure you always grab the rope from where it is above your last draw, cam, whatever. Look at where you pulled it from, how it looks, and how you are clipping. It also sounds like it would have been really easy for you to back clip. Develope a mental check list you go through everytime you clip and you should be able to avoid this. Belayers are nice back up, but ultimately it's your ass on the line.
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jt512
Jun 9, 2005, 5:24 PM
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In reply to: so I was on this short 30 foot 5.10 at a local sport crag here. the distance between the 3rd and 4th bolts was a few feet, around 5 or so...as it was the crux of the route. I clipped the 3rd bolt, then worked up to the 4th, since the distance was really close, the 3rd bolt was at my waist and i was hugging this bulge and had to grab the rope blindly to clip. so i did, then moved up to the top out and felt massive tension, so i asked for slack so i could make the mantle final move to the top out. my friend was like, "i dont think you want anymore slack"...so i looked down and saw the zclip...and just as i did, the tension pulled me off and i took a fall...only a minor rope burn on the back of my leg and some humility learned. needless to say, i pulled the rope from my figure 8 the rest of the day...i felt like a fool and am thankful nothing more happened. and i learned a lot in a short span of a few minutes.
Did you learn not to climb with the rope behind your leg?
-Jay
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jsj42
Jun 9, 2005, 5:25 PM
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I'd like to point out that z-clipping would never be a problem if route equippers would space out their bolts more and if trad leaders would be willing to climb above their gear before placing another piece.
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bler
Jun 9, 2005, 6:36 PM
Post #9 of 25
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In reply to: I'd like to point out that z-clipping would never be a problem if route equippers would space out their bolts more and if trad leaders would be willing to climb above their gear before placing another piece.
hahah 'route equippers'
cmon' you really expect people to take a 10 ft. fall on a bolted sport route *GOOOOSSSHH* bolts should be every 2 feet, not 5... :twisted:
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keinangst
Jun 9, 2005, 7:01 PM
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Skip bolts. It's good exercise for your balls.
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yak
Jun 24, 2005, 11:21 PM
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I z-clipped on my first lead and recovered then a few bolts later had a fall,was an interesting first lead experience.I feel it's the best way to learn.
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jt512
Jun 24, 2005, 11:31 PM
Post #13 of 25
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In reply to: I z-clipped on my first lead and recovered then a few bolts later had a fall,was an interesting first lead experience.I feel it's the best way to learn.
If Darwin were alive today I would email him a link to your post.
-Jay
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climbsomething
Jun 24, 2005, 11:40 PM
Post #14 of 25
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In reply to: I'd like to point out that z-clipping would never be a problem if route equippers would space out their bolts more and if trad leaders would be willing to climb above their gear before placing another piece.
T6
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organic
Jun 25, 2005, 12:39 AM
Post #15 of 25
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Well I used a stick-clip yesterday and felt like an idiot...
PS. I didn't know it was possible to z-clip outside either, I think you need to start bolt choppin' so someone else does not become hurt.
PPS. I like the 'because it was the crux' line. why would a sport route need an extra bolt because of the crux, because the one before it might pull?
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gunksgoer
Jun 25, 2005, 1:26 AM
Post #16 of 25
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I z clipped outside once too. Only time ive ever done it, and hopefully the last time i will ever do it. Id been leading sport for over a year, but the route was waaayy over bolted IMO. i learned my lesson however, no big deal.
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theonlynebraskaclimber
Jun 25, 2005, 2:13 AM
Post #17 of 25
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I feel stupid, what is a Z clip, is that the same as backclip?
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tradrenn
Jun 25, 2005, 2:35 AM
Post #18 of 25
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Get over it and learn from it.
Not a big deal.
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mattmax45
Jun 25, 2005, 5:00 AM
Post #19 of 25
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Registered: Jul 24, 2004
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I've been leading for ten years, and I haven't ever heard of fricken Z-clip, if you guys are going to reinvent the climbing lingo please update the rest of us, thanks.
Matt
P.S. So what the hell is it??? :?
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jcasper
Jun 25, 2005, 5:08 AM
Post #20 of 25
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Registered: May 23, 2005
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In reply to: I feel stupid, what is a Z clip, is that the same as backclip?
No, it's when you pull the rope from below protection that is already clipped and clip it into the protection above it, like this guy is about to do.
http://climbing.com/...tips/Sport.224-2.gif
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sustainedclimber
Jun 25, 2005, 5:18 AM
Post #21 of 25
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Registered: Jul 9, 2003
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe z-clipping and backclipping refer to the same action. That is clipping the rope that hangs below the last piece of protection, as opposed to the correct way which is clipping the rope that is between you and the last piece of protection. I've only done this once and it was on one of my first leads ever. Having done it once I'll never do it again, and at the time I hadn't even noticed. My belayer, a good friend of mine, told me, I downclimbed and just unclipped the previous draw. A lesson learned at no cost.
-Josh
EDIT: Thanks for that picture, I wasn't sure my description gave the full impression!
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jcasper
Jun 25, 2005, 5:35 AM
Post #22 of 25
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In reply to: Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe z-clipping and backclipping refer to the same action.
Okay, I'll correct you. :) What you described is z-clipping. Back clipping is when you clip the rope the wrong way through a single draw (biner)... if you back clip, the rope goes from your harness, behind the biner and then comes out from the cliff and to your belayer, configured this way, the rope could unclip itself from the draw. A correctly clipped rope should come from the belayer, then through the biner from the cliff side, then to your harness. Hard to describe so you should have someone show you if you aren't sure which way to clip the rope. if I remember right there is a picture of back clipping on BD biner instructions, with a big X through it.
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climbsomething
Jun 25, 2005, 9:51 AM
Post #23 of 25
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In reply to: Well I used a stick-clip yesterday and felt like an idiot... PS. I didn't know it was possible to z-clip outside either, I think you need to start bolt choppin' so someone else does not become hurt. PPS. I like the 'because it was the crux' line. why would a sport route need an extra bolt because of the crux, because the one before it might pull? |
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lvclimbingbum
Jul 3, 2005, 10:27 PM
Post #25 of 25
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Registered: Apr 18, 2005
Posts: 132
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I did it too the first time I lead. :lol:
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