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elvislegs
Jul 5, 2005, 4:17 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2002
Posts: 3148
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i can't take it anymore.
my house is on the market after much work and many cancelations of climbing trips. when it sells, and it will sell, i will be rewarding myself with a long overdue pilgramage to the valley.
i have never been there.
yes, i suck. shut up.
right then, so, i am creating a ticklist for my time there. i am climbing fairly consistantly up to .10+ most places, the occasional soft .11, and am mostly interested in extraordinary crack routes from one to ten pitches.
i won't have a ton of time, so i only want to do the very best routes within those criteria, and would like to spend as little time on the approach a possible (i am not going to the valley to lug all my shit around for five days). all the shots of reed's pinnacle that the_alpine has up have secured that as a must stop, but i'd like to hear from all my inturweb peeps about some other fantastic routes.
camhead? joe? mikes? bueller... bueller...
post up now internet experts. now is your time to sandbag the weakmo in the corner.
go.
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caughtinside
Jul 5, 2005, 4:26 PM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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Check out the supertopo guide book. Many of the classic cracks in your range are covered.
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elvislegs
Jul 5, 2005, 4:39 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2002
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yeah i'll buy it fo' sho'.
but how about some anecdotal recommendations caughtinside. what are your favorites?
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caughtinside
Jul 5, 2005, 4:53 PM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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Some of my favorites:
Central Pillar of Frenzy
E Buttress Middle cathedral
Bishops terrace
Committment-->Selagenella
No surprises in that group. I've only climbed 7 or 8 days in the valley though. And tuolomne is spectacular, you should definitely get up there too.
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cfnubbler
Jul 5, 2005, 4:56 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628
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Do the Rostrum. Though harder than the range you specified by a couple of letter grades, the .11c pitch is a short, well protected finger crack, and the other 2 5.11 pitches are easier and also well protected. The rest of the route is steller 5.9-5.10 cracks of various sizes, and the position is not to be missed.
If when you get to the base of the crux pitch you don't like it, you can very easily escape to the right, and still have climbed some absolutely stellar 5.9 to to .11- pitches and had a great day.
-Nubbler
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just_me
Jul 5, 2005, 4:58 PM
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Registered: May 13, 2002
Posts: 193
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Serenity crack linked with Sons of Yesterday. OUTSTANDING!!!
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azrockclimber
Jul 5, 2005, 5:08 PM
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Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 666
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at your grades do not do snake dike or royal arches if time is a factor. ....you will be much happier with routes like
serenity crack(5.10d short section of .10d mostly .10a) into sons of yesterday(.10a), middle cathedral east buttress(.10c/ 5.9 A0, or .10a...mostly moderate 5.7-5.8), east buttress of el cap (.10b), central pillar of frenzy (5.9), commitment (5.9)into selaginella(5.8/ 5.9)) (spelling??). braille book is sweet ( old school 5.8, mostly easy with a harder section of offwidth on P.4 bring large cams)
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elvislegs
Jul 5, 2005, 5:23 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2002
Posts: 3148
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you people frikkin rock.
keep em' coming.
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tradklime
Jul 5, 2005, 10:32 PM
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 1235
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If you are up for some shorter routes, ie 1-2 pitches, Cookie cliff has some great stuff.
I would also recommend the Rostrum, it's on your upper end, but if you are solid leading 10+ you can definitely work your way up it. I would caution that there is some 5.9 and 5.10 OW, so be prepared with a big cam or big balls.
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climbsomething
Jul 5, 2005, 10:58 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
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Since my Valley experience is limited, I'll give you my Vicarious Tick List and hope you'll do this for me:
Braille Book
Central Pillar of Frenzy
Serenity Crack
East Buttress of El Cap
Commitment
Oh, and go to Tuolomne and do West Crack on DAFF Dome. We had to bail after our buddy on another route broke his ankle.
And when you're done come to AZ. You can sleep on my futon (I'll even put a sheet on it for you and punt the cats off) and you can ropegun for me at the Stronghold and/or the Forks.
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