|
pulldownbtown
Jul 14, 2005, 8:05 PM
Post #1 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2005
Posts: 13
|
I've been working on this sloper problem at the local climbing gym in san diego called the pumpkin problem... i just cant seem to get it, but im really close and im wondering if anyone could give me any advice. im working a lot on technique and need to know if i need to try and stay closer to the rock, farther away from the rock or whatever. if you could help at all, it would be much appreciated... the promlem is straight up, no overhang. i have inserted a map and description, hope it works... but if not, its just 6 sloper handholds to the top. thanks a lot!
-Jeff
http://C:\Documents and Settings\jcoover\My Documents\My Pictures\pumpkin problem.jpg
|
|
|
|
|
gefunk
Jul 14, 2005, 8:21 PM
Post #2 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 15, 2004
Posts: 56
|
I would just tell you to campus it but some people just can't campus or even think of campusing slopers. I am thinking though, since your pic does not work that the slopers are real cool and hard. Most sloper problems are all mental with some balance. Psych yourself out and just do it. JUST SEND MOTHA!!!
Hahaha good luck
---B "rizzle"
|
|
|
|
|
pomattic
Jul 14, 2005, 8:44 PM
Post #3 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2004
Posts: 72
|
Without the pic it hard to say anything.. heck it hard with a pic.... most us be able to help you if we tryed climbing it. My only sugestion from personal experience on slopers is to go slooooowwwww. Not so slow that our hand are tierd after the first hold but slow in the movements. Fluid. Also foot placement is very important.
If you have no holds smear hard and stay low on you hands.
If there are nubins place your foot on the hold and pretty much screw it into the wall.
If you are using your sloper holds as foot holds then pretty much smear em.
Like i said, that bout what i can tell you about what I do; while sitting infront of my computer. It much diffrent getting out... the end is always that YOU have to figure it out.
ONE more thing i would suggest is switch to other sloper problems .. possibly easier ones. Get very comfortable on them. Feel the movemnts (you know that feeling). Then get back to it. Stare it down. get ready. and send!
---
side note: watch out how much you climb on slopers. Im recovering right now from a wrist injury- potentialy due to too many slopers! Luck. One.
|
|
|
|
|
justhavefun
Jul 14, 2005, 8:47 PM
Post #4 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 23, 2004
Posts: 81
|
Is this the smiley-face-hold boulder problem at VH?
|
|
|
|
|
pulldownbtown
Jul 15, 2005, 1:18 AM
Post #5 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2005
Posts: 13
|
ya haha you know the problem! heres the sichy... i can get the sit start to the left hand, then i get up to the right hand, move my foot up to the original sit start handhold, reach up my left to the next hold, stand on my right and get the next right, and im stuck there, i cant get my left foot on the next hold up (which is the left hand that you move to after the start) so frustrating!
|
|
|
|
|
adamchilton
Jul 15, 2005, 2:56 AM
Post #6 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2005
Posts: 30
|
yo man you have to upload the pic somewhere like www.photobucket.com then do the http://www.whatthehellever to display the pic
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jul 15, 2005, 11:20 AM
Post #7 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
GENERALLY the best way to climb slopers is to try to make them as positive as possible. the means, if the sloper is above you, trying to get as far under it as possible, even parallel to the rock/wood, or if its a sidepull, as far to the side as possible.
also try not to move your hand once its on.
|
|
|
|
|
gunkiemike
Jul 15, 2005, 2:34 PM
Post #8 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
|
Take a break so your fingerprints grow back.
Brush the hold to raise the texture and remove chalk, but only do so PERPENDICULAR TO the direction of pull.
|
|
|
|
|
sentinel
Jul 15, 2005, 4:25 PM
Post #9 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 68
|
So you're fixating on a gym problem... You're the same climber who would go to an area and say, "No WAY is that 5.7".
I remember one time at Band Camp...
|
|
|
|
|
justhavefun
Jul 15, 2005, 5:21 PM
Post #10 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 23, 2004
Posts: 81
|
Okay. I know the problem but I didn't read where you got stuck before I went to the gym last night. I'll check out the move on Tuesday night next week, if the problem is still up. It could be kind of greasy also, it's been up for a while. If you're around we could work on it / boulder for a while.
As an aside, people at the gym are usually pretty good about giving help and advice. I get beta from random people on the ground all the time and it's usually good :) That's why I like that place.
Isn't there something hugely satisfying about using two fingers to poke the eyes out of a bright-yellow smiley face hold? Love that...
|
|
|
|
|
pulldownbtown
Jul 15, 2005, 5:24 PM
Post #11 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2005
Posts: 13
|
ive climbed indoor a grand total of 2 days. ive been climbing outdoors since i was seven, and now im 18, have climbed half dome, several yosemite classics, weeks at j-tree, red river gorge and squamish... outdoor climbing is what keeps me climbing... indoor climbing is just convenient right now while i dont have a partner to climb with (my brother is in mammoth)
|
|
|
|
|
climbinginchico
Jul 15, 2005, 6:33 PM
Post #13 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 3032
|
22 feet seems awfully high for a gym boulder problem. Talk about injury liabilities.
|
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Jul 15, 2005, 6:42 PM
Post #14 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
Heh I wasn't aware the boulder @ VH was 22 feet tall. Always seemed like about 12-14 to me.
|
|
|
|
|
pulldownbtown
Jul 16, 2005, 6:52 AM
Post #15 of 15
(2099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2005
Posts: 13
|
alright guys, thanks for the help! i sent the problem today, second try of the day. turns out its a lot easier when im not pumped! but still a great problem, and a lot of fun. thanks a lot!
|
|
|
|
|
|
