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fallingrock
Jul 17, 2005, 9:32 AM
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Registered: Jun 16, 2005
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sbaclimber
Jul 17, 2005, 10:52 AM
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In reply to: Alright, I'll be working hand/fist/arm/wrist jam.... working on getting it good and stuck.... but then, as I begin to weight it (and the pain becomes palpable) and step up to my next move, I realize that my hand/arm/misc. is really quite stuck (or so my mind has me think) and of course, I'm usually pumped and in an incredibly awful position 6 or 7 feet above my last piece at the time... so I panic, of course. First, does anyone else have this problem with their jams becoming difficult to unjam? Second, has anyone ever been unable to remove a limb or appendage from a crack? Third, instead should I be happy that my jam is so reliable that I can barely get it unstuck? Fourth, am I just an effin' wuss?
okay, here goes:
1) yes, sometimes it happens.
2) well, not permanently (otherwise I wouldn't be typing right now, now would I?? :wink: ). When this happens, I find reversing the move back to where I put the appendage in puts me in the position to pull it back out. This may seem counter productive, but you can then replace it in such manner that you can then remove it after the following move.... got it? If not, ask for clarification...
3) generally speaking, yes, any jam that you cannot get unstuck is probably a 'good' jam, you just need to work on the 'getting it unstuck' part a bit....like any other technique.
4) well, yes, but a bit of windging is always allowed...it IS crack climbing after all.
Note: mega kudos on you for wanting to be a crack climber! One more for the dark side :twisted: :twisted:
btw, if you are 6-7 feet above your last piece, you have an appendage so jammed that you can't get it out, and you are pumped, plug in a piece! If it is seriously THAT stuck, hang on it, put in a piece, and rest. Chances are the pain will bring tears to your eyes, but consider it a kind of initiation (which I still go through on a regular basis :D )
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rickrock77
Jul 17, 2005, 12:52 PM
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Dont know if you do it, but when you jam, make a fist and turn it horizointal, that way your first is dictating how much space is taken, and its easy to pull off.
Place some gear like the other guy said, and remember if you clench the muslces in your arm while it is jamed, for about 10 oe 30 seconds, it will sweat up and become slippery.
For unjamming, try pushing your arm in just a few millimetres, or for you americans, 1/10th of an inch, then slide your arm either up or down, to hopefully wider rock, and then pull out..
And lastly, dont know if anyone does this, but have you thought about shaving your arms?
I havnt done this, but it seems you have trouble getting stuck, so it might help..
Just my two cents worth, good luck keeping skin on your hands!
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girlclimb
Jul 17, 2005, 1:05 PM
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hehe good post i just started trad leading last weekend and this weekend i did a close to my level thin finger crack which trust me when i did find good holds i kept calling them too good lol ..the feet were thin and once i semi slipped and for about 5 seconds i was sure my fingers were going to be in the crack forever once i got the pressure onto my other hand and back onto my feet i managed to get my hand out at that point however i was a little shaking and a move later i took my first leader fall. so anyway my post is more for the you aren't alone factor. i did the route on tr after and it went so super smooth so here is what i think i think the more relaxed you are the less likely your hands are to getting that super stuck feeling for me just leading alot more should help to minimize the prob....
good luck!
~K
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vegastradguy
Jul 17, 2005, 1:43 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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sounds like you're trying to jam way too hard. relying on your feet is key when crack climbing. jams only need to be good enough to keep you from falling backward.
anyway, i got my fist stuck once on the Damper in Jtree- two tiny protrusions that i didnt notice pinned my wrist into the crack during the crux bulge. luckily, i was able to free my hand after coming down and hanging on my pro for a second, but i was admittedly worried for a minute!
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theishofoz
Jul 17, 2005, 1:53 PM
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Registered: Jun 28, 2004
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if you have a jam that wont get unstuck, take it as a blessing if you are really pumped, and then you can put in some gear over your head and just TAKE if you dont want to fall
but on the sucject of jams, you want to be jamming just hard enough tobe holding you in the rock. if you jam too hard, then you will get stuck and pumped extremely quickly, and if you dont jam hard enough, well, you fall. :D it has to be a delicate balance of just barely holding in enough so that you can have energy for the rest of the climb.
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petsfed
Jul 17, 2005, 4:51 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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My father once told me about a guy that got his knee stuck while levitating somewhere out at Vedauwoo. He threw in some pro, clipped in and waited 3 hours for the swelling to go down enough to get his knee out. Choose your jams carefully and place them correctly if you don't want to get stuck.
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dougtaylor
Jul 17, 2005, 6:08 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2003
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I had a partner get his hand jammed and he could not really move up, down or whatever. I followed, with the rope still in the ATC and kind of belaying myself (semi-solo). I was able to push up on his back-side and it was enough for him to be able to release his hand....
I rapped down, he lived, happy ending.
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fallingrock
Jul 18, 2005, 5:05 PM
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Registered: Jun 16, 2005
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Hah! Thanks for the horror stories.... the scabs on the back of my hand are obviously the least of my worries. :x
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schveety
Jul 18, 2005, 7:27 PM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2005
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I have gotten a knee jammed pretty good and usually my fingers---which I prefer my fingers not to come out because I probably don't have any feet at that point. I have found that panicking is the worst thing, I think it causes your jammed appendage to automatically puff up :lol: . I usually freak out at the thought of falling with my fingers in there, which I did once and my fingers raked down the inside of the crack but popped out all on their own, natural reaction. And love those scars that jamming gives you, I have plenty, they tell people that you do more than sit at a desk all day................ :P
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