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5.15 is for sissies
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sick_climba


Jul 2, 2005, 5:42 PM
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Flex luther out in the fortress of solitude is a 5.15 a that is only one pitch... you only need a 50 meter rope I beleive.

Nope. 70 meter.

http://www.merrickales.com/crap/invalid.jpg
ahhhh right, damn it... thanks for the correction bro!
Climb on
Chris


jt512


Jul 2, 2005, 6:02 PM
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When is someone going to buck up, put on their man pants and climb something 6th class?

Well, that's about the most ignorant climbing question ever posed. Nice work.

-Jay


Partner gunksgoer


Jul 2, 2005, 7:08 PM
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5.15 should be solid 5.15 moves, not 13b/c moves for 100+ feet, that's kinda like long 13's, 100+ feet of 11.b then a crux of 12c/d, it should only be rated to the hardest move possible. Some day someone will develope a route thats 40 feet long at solid 5.15 / V14 moves

Theres a route just like that. Its called Akira, and was done over a decade ago.


mattmax45


Jul 3, 2005, 5:08 AM
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5.15 should be solid 5.15 moves, not 13b/c moves for 100+ feet, that's kinda like long 13's, 100+ feet of 11.b then a crux of 12c/d, it should only be rated to the hardest move possible. Some day someone will develope a route thats 40 feet long at solid 5.15 / V14 moves

Theres a route just like that. Its called Akira, and was done over a decade ago.


I know of Akira, but I don't believe the moves are solid V14 for 50+ feet, the moves are hard maybe V12ish, but not V14. Besides that route has been chipped anyways and shouldn't count.
Guys I'm not talking about your typical marathon 5.15 route, thats 120+ feet long with V9+ moves, I'm thinking of true V14+ moves for 50 on a 45% wall with holds no bigger than .25 of a inch and three fingers at best, between 4 to 5 foot long moves or greater, with a halo of mono pinches to back that up, now thats impressive, one only needs power endurance to climb 200+ feet of V9/10, look at the honorable Randy Leavet, 40 Y/O he has a weak wrist from a break, and can still do "5.14d Tusk" 230+ feet long, review the last year or so most of the really high end routes are getting longer and longer, look at Tusk, Flex Luther, La Novena Enmienda all right at 5.15 or higher and more the 120+ feet long, then look at Action Directe what maybe 35, 40 feet tops and still at .14d , one more micro mono and it'd be 5.15 no prob.

The harder routes of this generation will continue for the most part to get longer and longer, hense greater power endurance, but one 50 foot 5.15 with V14/5 moves the whole way takes a different kind of strength, shear contact power, brutal explosive moves, unrelenting. Now thats impressive

We can all agree, when it gets above the .13th grade it gets hard, and harder and harder still.

So don't forget the short routes, they're still very Fuc--n hard.

:wink:


ikefromla


Jul 3, 2005, 11:32 AM
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mattmax45,
stFu and go climb the shit then. until you have climbed ANY of the routes you mention, you are talking out of your ass, n'est pas? how can you argue about the difficulty of the moves on Akira, saying they can't be V14 moves, but maybe V12, if you haven't ever seen or touched the shit, let alone pull at that level in the first place? Go do it and then say how illegitimate it is due to (rumored? limited? extensive?) chipping (you could take after Dave Graham, who sprayed about how he ticked 7 5.14's at Mt. Charleston, took the credit, and kissed the asses of some of the areas top climbers, only to turn around and spray to R&I about how much of a pile it is, exaggerating and lying about the state of the place.) Maybe you've pulled relatively hard, but you still can't pretend to even know what V14 is any more than I can. Maybe when you can pull that hard you can go establish your own 35 foot long 5.15 and tell us about the sick holds and how hard all the moves are.

power-endurance is the future and reality. it's what makes climbing hard routes so much more difficult and satisfying (imho) than climbing hard boulder problems. nothing against short routes, but they're just not the ill shit.

fondly
-Ike

ps those who do climb the routes you mention don't waste there time talking about the shit on the internet... perhaps i'll join that fold.


flipnfall


Jul 3, 2005, 11:49 AM
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Don't tell me this post is still alive! :shock:


ikefromla


Jul 3, 2005, 1:17 PM
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Don't tell me this post is still alive! :shock:
i thought the exact same thing... then got roped into replying.


bler


Jul 3, 2005, 4:20 PM
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durrrrr de durrr huh huh huh duuuuughhhhhhh i am bright


mattmax45


Jul 3, 2005, 4:38 PM
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Hey Ike,

(edited for clarity)
Like any one gives a SH-- about what anyone can or cannot climb.


I climb as hard as I feel like, nothing is more inhibiting than yourself, so in light of your arrogance, You can Foo Votre Mere (edited for political correctness.) Having said that, Oedipus syndrom is alive and well. :wink: You should read up betty most of the routes are getting longer because not many have the strength and power to do V14 for 50+ feet unless your Dai or Fred, and in that case props.
And besides your ASSuming that I haven't seen Akira and the other routes, shit for all you know I've already climbed them. Like I said this is a DISCUSSION FORUM that means all of us get to VOICE our individual opinions. So RC.com should be taken down off the net if thats not what its about, all the forums should be erased if thats not what its all about, Isscack you to are guilty of internet BS, and the rest of us aswell, so unless someone wants to crash this site with a super virus, STOP the F'n complaining about what the threads and posts say, or just stay the F--- off this site, If you don't want to hear other people's opinions.


Nothing really to personal IKE Pallet, We're all just numbers,
on a super highway stained red. :wink:




In reply to:
mattmax45,
stFu and go climb the s--- then. until you have climbed ANY of the routes you mention, you are talking out of your ass, n'est pas? how can you argue about the difficulty of the moves on Akira, saying they can't be V14 moves, but maybe V12, if you haven't ever seen or touched the s---, let alone pull at that level in the first place? Go do it and then say how illegitimate it is due to (rumored? limited? extensive?) chipping (you could take after Dave Graham, who sprayed about how he ticked 7 5.14's at Mt. Charleston, took the credit, and kissed the asses of some of the areas top climbers, only to turn around and spray to R&I about how much of a pile it is, exaggerating and lying about the state of the place.) Maybe you've pulled relatively hard, but you still can't pretend to even know what V14 is any more than I can. Maybe when you can pull that hard you can go establish your own 35 foot long 5.15 and tell us about the sick holds and how hard all the moves are.

power-endurance is the future and reality. it's what makes climbing hard routes so much more difficult and satisfying (imho) than climbing hard boulder problems. nothing against short routes, but they're just not the ill s---.

fondly
-Ike

ps those who do climb the routes you mention don't waste there time talking about the s--- on the internet... perhaps i'll join that fold.


dirtineye


Jul 3, 2005, 4:38 PM
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Maybe this time you'll listen.


bler


Jul 3, 2005, 7:51 PM
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every post i see by 'dirtineye' is that stupidass 'die thread die'

99% of his posts must be this image


freeskicolorado


Jul 3, 2005, 9:55 PM
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every post i see by 'dirtineye' is that stupidass 'die thread die'

99% of his posts must be this image

And justifiably so, given the general quality of topics on this site.


ikefromla


Jul 3, 2005, 10:36 PM
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Mattmax,
I call weaksauce. That is a shitty-ass dabalicious picture.
And I know you haven't done any of those routes you mentioned. I wouldn't call my inference from your original post an assumption.
As I said, go push those grades... I never pretended to be able to. I mean, clearly I'm no God to this sport the way YOU are.

and I'm not a California prick, I only lived there for four years, and I currently reside in Brooklyn. fuck you very much.

all the best,
Ike


sick_climba


Jul 3, 2005, 10:46 PM
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every post i see by 'dirtineye' is that stupidass 'die thread die'

99% of his posts must be this image

And justifiably so, given the general quality of topics on this site.
I agree with this dude!


towsonclimber


Jul 3, 2005, 11:01 PM
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isnt this supposed to be about the moron who doesnt think 6th class routes exist not about you two morons bitching at each other take that private.

second i like these types of forums they make me laugh

eh seeing as there really isnt anything inteligent to add i am going to say TTFN and keep up the good work ignorant climbers


ikefromla


Jul 3, 2005, 11:08 PM
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isnt this supposed to be about the moron who doesnt think 6th class routes exist not about you two morons b---- at each other ... keep up the good work ignorant climbers
did we at least make you laugh? I would like to think that I'm good for something.


giver


Jul 4, 2005, 12:54 AM
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so...since 6.1 is impossible and 5.15a is.....well...pretty damn close to impossible. Who's in for some 4.15a!?


nich_popsicle


Jul 4, 2005, 1:14 AM
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Viva les 4.15a's, and perhaps some 4.15 B's!!!

Haha, I climb with towsonclimber, and he has to aid the occasional 5.7, must be an elusive grade, haha. Sike, you know I'm just kidding Mac, muhahaha...

As for Ike and Matt, you guys DO crack me up :lol: . Yeah, for anyone who tries to find valid advice in ANY online forum, uhhh.....

Keep up the good work, y'all :D .


ikefromla


Jul 4, 2005, 4:13 AM
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if you want a real laugh, check his photos and toprope "sends." :wink:


ikefromla


Jul 5, 2005, 5:23 AM
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What makes you think I can't climb what I talk about ... You can go FUC- your mother. ... And besides your ASSuming that I haven't seen Akira and the other routes, s--- for all you know I've already climbed them

from another thread:
In reply to:
Iv'e climbed enough at rifle to know I suck at 80 foot 5.11 a jug routes

mmmhhhmmm
:roll:


sick_climba


Jul 5, 2005, 6:01 AM
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What makes you think I can't climb what I talk about ... You can go FUC- your mother. ... And besides your ASSuming that I haven't seen Akira and the other routes, s--- for all you know I've already climbed them

from another thread:
In reply to:
Iv'e climbed enough at rifle to know I suck at 80 foot 5.11 a jug routes

mmmhhhmmm
:roll:
GOD DAMN IT take towsonclimbers advice and carry this out in private your making asses out of yourselfs. Please use the fucking threads for advice and not to bicker with eachother!
Climb on
Chris


thefirstascentionizer


Jul 5, 2005, 7:12 AM
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DAB!!!!11


thefirstascentionizer


Jul 5, 2005, 7:20 AM
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one only needs power endurance to climb 200+ feet of V9/10, look at the honorable Randy Leavet, 40 Y/O he has a weak wrist from a break, and can still do "5.14d Tusk" 230+ feet long, review the last year or so most of the really high end routes are getting longer and longer, look at Tusk, Flex Luther, La Novena Enmienda all right at 5.15 or higher and more the 120+ feet long, then look at Action Directe what maybe 35, 40 feet tops and still at .14d , one more micro mono and it'd be 5.15 no prob.
1) "only power-endurance" sounds pretty fuckin ignorant.
2) Randy Leavitt is spelled as such <--
3) Tusk is 14a/b, not 14d.
4) It is not 230+ feet long as it is a single pitch sport climb.

DAB4LYFE!11


rufusandcompany


Jul 19, 2005, 4:16 AM
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Maybe the guy is suggesting fourth-classing The Nose. That would be worth watching, and I don't mean with a harness, and a coil on his or her back. Slippers and a chaulk bag, baby :!:


mattmax45


Jul 20, 2005, 9:21 PM
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if you want a real laugh, check his photos and toprope "sends." :wink:


Yeah as of 6 years ago, "Yank!!!Yank!!! Squirt" When do you plan on entering the 14th grade. :wink:

PM me next time your coming this way I'll hook you up with the new area, the new problems could use an attempt, that's if U'r hard enough. :twisted: On second thought I don't want anyone getting hurt here, sorry you'll have to come back when you're older.


Later Spanky, Matt.

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