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zylah
Jul 31, 2005, 8:23 PM
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I have just bought my first rope :D and went to the gym for some sport climbing and found that i freaked out pretty bad. :x
I know i can do the climbs but I freak out at the lower parts before i get the first 2 bolts in.
However as I am currently travelling around germany (before heading through Austria and Switzerland to Italy) I would love to do some sport climing outdoors.
I had a brief look at some topos for Frankenjura and most of the first bolts seem to be quite high. Is this usual for sport climbing, or can someone recomend some easy climbs (4-5) that have nice (low) bolts? (anywhere in germany7Austria/swityerland7Italy as we will be travelling all over)
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lucas_timmer
Jul 31, 2005, 9:01 PM
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Have you looked in the Routes Database ??
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booger
Aug 2, 2005, 9:47 AM
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Where will you be in Italy? There are a lot of good sport routes around Arco, but you'll find most of the easier stuff pretty polished. Do you feel comfortable on multi-pitch?
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heiko
Aug 7, 2005, 7:36 PM
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In reply to: I had a brief look at some topos for Frankenjura and most of the first bolts seem to be quite high. Is this usual for sport climbing, or can someone recomend some easy climbs (4-5) that have nice (low) bolts? (anywhere in germany7Austria/swityerland7Italy as we will be travelling all over)
Regarding Frankenjura you might have looked at topos of crags that were bolted in the 70's or 80's. These indeed have the first bolt quite high up, some at around 4-5 meters, and also tend to have only a few bolts, at the cruxes. However, there are innumerous climbs that have been set up in the last couple of years, and these are very well bolted. If you take a closer look at the two guidebooks available, you will definitely find areas that are not so scary.
Apart from that, I can always recommend the granite crags at Ponte Brolla in Switzerland. Nice, well-bolted, beautiful area.
The Arco area in northern Italy is definitely huge. Might be a little hot at the moment, and the easy crags are often polished, but I haven't seen a limestone area where this is not the case.
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flo7
Aug 19, 2005, 6:21 AM
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i know a climbing area about 7miles from heidelberg, called "schriesheim"(it s also the town which you should introduce in your online map like "map24" for europe) with a bunch of easy and moderate climbs, all nice bolted
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flo7
Aug 19, 2005, 6:24 AM
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i know a climbing area about 7miles from heidelberg, called "schriesheim"(it s also the town which you should introduce in your online map like "map24" for europe) with a bunch of easy and moderate climbs, all nice bolted
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tisar
Aug 19, 2005, 10:37 AM
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Here's a huge database of routes in the Frankenjura with an exellent search function, including the opportunity to search about the protection:
http://www.klettern.frankenjura.com/deutsch/index.php3
Even '4-5m' is not that high for a first bolt...
I think underlying ethics of many bolters forbid to bolt where a nut would do a job - not really unusual even in a 'sports' area like the Frankenjure.
A simple set of stoppers did help me a lot over there and should be part of sports climbing equipment.
That said, there are still a lot of routes in FJ which are close to french bolting style. The topos will tell you.
On the positive side: Most routes over there are in exellent condition, you'd most seldomly have to worry about the quality of the bolt you just clipped. (You'll see lots of people considering one single bolt as an anchor... sure bad style but believe me, even DAV instructors do...)
Have fun, it's great climbing over there!
- Daniel
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heiko
Aug 19, 2005, 3:57 PM
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In reply to: Even '4-5m' is not that high for a first bolt...
:twisted:
In reply to: A simple set of stoppers did help me a lot over there and should be part of sports climbing equipment.
Surely I agree. Stoppers do not place themselves however. I'd consider it a little much to climb on self-placed gear if climbing in the gym freaks you out already.
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tisar
Aug 19, 2005, 4:23 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Even '4-5m' is not that high for a first bolt... :twisted: In reply to: A simple set of stoppers did help me a lot over there and should be part of sports climbing equipment. Surely I agree. Stoppers do not place themselves however. I'd consider it a little much to climb on self-placed gear if climbing in the gym freaks you out already.
You're right :lol:
But honestly, bolts below 5m don't serve any purpose. They'll never keep you from decking anyway (except the next one is inbetween the next 1,5m - hardly to be found on easy routes).
Concerning the gear... It's not rocket science to place a nut so it'll catch a fall. And it's even easier to place a nut that only serves the purpose to catch the climbers confidence if it's about to vanish in the void... :wink:
- Daniel
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