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cappuccino


Jul 31, 2005, 12:58 AM
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Really new
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I am the definition of a newbie. I have been climbing indoors for only about 5 months or so. I took it up as a stress relief as well as to get over my fear of heights. I had a horrible fear of heights, but now i love it. Due to my location there really isn't very much outside climbing I can do... i live in the flattest state possible. Now in a gym I am "good" but i know this will not compare to the real deal. Now personally i believe in listening to vets ( i just read the topic "Leaving the security of an indoor gym" and i wouldn't dare try that). I wanted some advice on it. Now i know i need gear but all in due time. Do you folks reccommed reading literature on the subject? I know alot of books books have been published explaining the conversion from indoor to outdoor. I know very little about the actual sport, especially the different types of climbing (sport, traditional, boldering, etc). i also know gear is important. I have picked ut the shoes i want (montrail smoothy) and harnesses and helmets are easy to figure out.. but i have no idea what to get to go outdoor climbing. So any info or if you know any good books please inform me. Thank you


backclipped


Jul 31, 2005, 3:24 AM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2005
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Re: Really new [In reply to]
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You know, I read everything that's put down in front of me...as long as I"m interested in the subject matter. John Long has written some good "How to" books, and there are some others out there from Falcon press, etc... Read em, it won't hurt you, but I strongly suggest that an actual "live" experienced climber show you the ropes. I've only been climbing for about two years now and the lessons I've learned from friends and off-the-cuff partners has been invaluable. In fact I learn something new every time I go out...well, almost every time.
I've used books (Like John Long's book about climbing anchors) to supplement what I've already experienced on the rock (and to pass the time on the throne).

Good luck and be safe


fourteenersforfun


Jul 31, 2005, 3:46 AM
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Re: Really new [In reply to]
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Get Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills. It's in like it's 7th or 8th edition. Like an outdoor bible. Pick up a length of rope like 6 feet...usually the gyms have some that IS NOT climb rated anymore...you can use it to practice...practice...and then practice more on various knots. Sign up for a climbing class. Find an EXPERIENCED mentor. Climb like it's the last time you'll ever get the chance.


saxfiend


Jul 31, 2005, 4:06 AM
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Re: Really new [In reply to]
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The advice on reading the John Long books is on the money, his "How to Rock Climb" and "Climbing Anchors" books are excellent.

As for gear, all you really need to start out is the basics: harness, shoes, belay device and locking belay biner (and chalk bag/chalk, I guess that's gear too). With those things, you have what you need to climb with someone else who has all the other stuff -- ropes, protection, etc.

Nothing beats partnering up with someone who's experienced and climbing with them. Is there a climbing club in Jacksonville? I bet there's people at your gym who make trips to the crags in Tennessee, Alabama, etc. Those would be great resources for your first outdoor climb. You could also post in the Partners forum here and hook up with someone, but then you'd be kind of putting your faith in someone you never met.

Good luck, you're going to enjoy your first climb on real rock!

JL


Partner fateful_fortress


Jul 31, 2005, 10:48 PM
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Re: Really new [In reply to]
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I bet, I can beat your newbie status with mine...I have yet to climb :oops: indoor/outdoor. Climbing is one of those many latent passions of mine (recently discovered that it's a must do) so I've decided that as soon as I have a job (which translates to cash) I'll head to a local gym and begin my indoor climbing ventures. As far as outdoor climbing, I'm setting this goal for myself about it, "By next spring I'll be outdoors climbing away...!" Good luck with your transitioning :!:

:D


shaggyj


Aug 1, 2005, 12:54 AM
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Re: Really new [In reply to]
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Cappuccino,

I'm going to give to two best bits of advice:

#1 Get to know the good climbers in the Jacksonville Gym. Gary, Terry, Lee, the Karsts, etc, they are great people and if you beg them enough they might take you on a road trip to Tenn, Alabama, or Georgia.

#2 If you are serious about climbing.... then move..... There are no less than 8 former Jacksonville climbers living in the Front Range


alcyone


Aug 1, 2005, 3:32 AM
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Re: Really new [In reply to]
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My best advice is DO NOT get montrail shoes. They're horrible. You can get better shoes than that for a reasonabe price.

Oh, and start talking to the staff at your gym and some of the regulars, my bet is someone will be willing to take you in.


backclipped


Aug 1, 2005, 4:00 AM
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Re: Really new [In reply to]
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I disagree with the montrail comment. Montrail doesn't make the best shoes (La Sportiva has that market) but there not a bad bang for the buck. The Zealots are a good sport shoe and the Splitter is a pretty good trad shoe. Trust me man, I don't splan to be an expert on anything, but I've climbed in more shoes than any one that I currently climb with. The worst shoe, hands down, was the Mad Rock Hooker Lace (the Locos weren't bad). The Boreal Stingers almost made me quit climbing.


saxfiend


Aug 1, 2005, 4:56 PM
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Re: Really new [In reply to]
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In reply to:
My best advice is DO NOT get montrail shoes.
The only worthwhile shoe advice to give a beginner is to try out some cheap all-around shoes and find a pair that fit right and are comfortable. Shoes are such a matter of personal taste that it's useless to tell someone a particular brand is good or bad.

To the OP: worry about better, more specialized shoes later after you've gotten some experience.

JL

PS to alcyone -- I love my Montrail Zealots. 8^)


Partner ctardi


Aug 1, 2005, 5:48 PM
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Re: Really new [In reply to]
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For beginner shoes, nothing wrong with some 5.10's.

To learn more outdoors, read the falcon guides, freedom of the hills, and any other books you find. Then, after you have the gear mentioned above, find a patent partner that you get along with, and has a rope and pro. Climb with them, and ask them about everything they do, and why they do it. Do that several times. Repeat.


cappuccino


Aug 2, 2005, 1:39 AM
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i use 5-10 at the gym when i go. Though i just got a pair of Montrail Smoothy brand new for 50 bucks. They go for more so it wasn't too bad


cappuccino


Aug 2, 2005, 1:44 AM
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also i got thme in size 42.. my vans i wear are a 43 so this should be good..no? For some reason when i go to the gym an di get the shoes i need .5 size bigger.. but i read here that you should get 1/2-1 size smaller due to strech..no?


backclipped


Aug 2, 2005, 5:57 AM
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Depends on the style of Shoe. Slippers stretch out quite a bit so you can size them smaller if you want. When I bought my first pair of shoes (Boreal Stingers) I let the shop guy talk me into buying a pair of shoes that could have been passed off as midevel torture devices. They never came close to becoming comfortable.

I wear a size 10.5 street shoe.

La Sportiva Testerosa in a 41.
Mad Rock Loco in 44.
Montrail Splitter...shit, I can't remember.

Dude, just don't go too small. climbing is fun. It's even more fun when you can get your shoes on without a shoe horn.


tragic_photography


Aug 2, 2005, 4:00 PM
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Re: Really new [In reply to]
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Hey man. Welcome to the endless buying of new gear =).

First off, I'd like to say that you should read "Mountaineering: The Freedom of The Hills, 7th Edition." Through as many times as possible. It is basially a climbers bible. The "How To Rock Climb" books by John Long are very good as well.

As for gear.
I would say just to go top-roping you need the following.
A 10.2-11.5mm x 60M rope.
A cordelette (Which is usually 20' of 7-8 mil Perlon) for equalizing anchor systems.
20-30 feet of 1" tubular webbing for getting to hard to reach trees and such.
At least 3-4 locking 'biners.
Around 4 non-locking biners.
And some stoppers size to the cracks of the area you will be climbing just for backup in case the fixed anchors look dicey.

As always, find someone with as much experience as possible in your area and climb learn from them! ~Good luck. ~Stoney


flipnfall


Aug 2, 2005, 4:43 PM
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Re: Really new [In reply to]
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I agree with the above, "Get Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills"

It's a really good book for starters. I recommend that one to a lot of people. Also, ask a lot of questions when you go to the gym. You're bound to find someone who's able to share a lot of information with you.

If you have any specific questions, feel free to PM me!

GT


leea11


Aug 7, 2005, 1:14 PM
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:? I guess that puts us in the same boat. Its just a thought but just keep me posted on your progress and then we might be able to share our beginners status.
leea11


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