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jman5
Aug 3, 2005, 1:24 AM
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I have a question about shoes. Right now i have the 5-10 moccassin not really happy with the slip on style. want a real agressive shoe for bouldering. i'm looking for a good down turned agressive toe. i'm looking at the 5-10 anisazi velcro. Evolve preditor. but am open to sugjesions. so what are your opinions and what shoe would you recomend. from experience.
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thescottishclimber
Aug 3, 2005, 1:32 AM
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Registered: Apr 3, 2004
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I have the Evolv Predator it is a really good shoe for really over hanging rock but not much else
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stuckinmidwest
Aug 3, 2005, 2:39 AM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2004
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sportiva venom, haven't owned a pair yet, but i'd like too
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Aug 3, 2005, 2:44 AM
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Registered: Mar 19, 2003
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In reply to: I have a question about shoes. Right now i have the 5-10 moccassin not really happy with the slip on style. want a real agressive shoe for bouldering. i'm looking for a good down turned agressive toe. i'm looking at the 5-10 anisazi velcro. Evolve preditor. but am open to sugjesions. so what are your opinions and what shoe would you recomend. from experience.
The 5-10 anasazi velcro isn't a downturned agressive toe. BUT it does have a lot extra sensitivity in the toe. The Predator from Evolv does have an extremely agressive toe and their newest rubber is quite comparable to the 5.10 rubber.
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joshy8200
Aug 3, 2005, 2:48 AM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 646
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5.10 Dragons, 5.10 V-10, La Sportiva Katanas...Those are your really high-end bouldering and climbing shoes.
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ajkclay
Aug 3, 2005, 4:59 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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My Dominators hurt my feet all the time, without any provocation at all!
Now if that's not aggressive, I dunno what is! :(
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blitzkrieg_climber13
Aug 3, 2005, 5:09 AM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2005
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mad rock sharks are pretty awesome. im really impressed with the dual density system in the toe area. good shoes.
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ninja_climber
Aug 3, 2005, 5:29 AM
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I have pair of Mad Rock hookers and I personally think they are the shit! They're great for toe hooks and heel hooks. If you want pair of down turned get the Mad Rock Locos. I tried on a pair they're really breathable and the front is kind of a rubber point. I didn't like it because I thought it was a little to uncomfortable. Might be diffrent for you.
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karmaklimber
Aug 3, 2005, 5:51 AM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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Neither Five Ten shoes nor Mad Rocks fit my feet well. I've been pleased with the La Sportiva Cobras, but since they discontinued them, I've been using the La Sportiva Venoms. So far, I've been really happy with them; my only complaint is that they size really funny.
I haven't tried any Evolv shoes.
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climbalon
Aug 3, 2005, 6:43 AM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
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ive had moccasyms, evolv kaos and the annasazi velcroes. I absolutely love the moccasyms, i didnt really like the board last on the evolvs because i dont think the shoe fit my foot perfectly and the board last makes it harder for the shoe to adapt. Ive had the annasazis for a while now and i really like them.
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ahwoo
Aug 3, 2005, 6:52 AM
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Registered: Apr 1, 2005
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well, i've got a pair of the five ten v10s. took a while to get used to, but once you do they're great. hard to size the v10s though, because no matter what they have a tendency to hurt like hell when you first get them. another problem is that they hurt when going up climbs that are more or less vertical due to standing on the toe.
i've also got a pair of the sportiva katanas (2nd pair). not the most aggressive shoe, but it does well enough. i'd recommend the katanas as a nice mix of aggressiveness and comfort.
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roddy82
Aug 3, 2005, 9:05 PM
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The 5-10 V10's are sick for hard bouldering, but they suck for heel hooks. The mad rock locos are good for hard bouldering and mad rock shoes are deff the best for heel hooks. for some reason the loco velcro comes loose easily, if there was a loco slipper i would buy it.
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atarinaper
Aug 5, 2005, 4:51 PM
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Registered: Apr 11, 2004
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5.10 galaleos are looking pretty nice too, thats what i will be picking up once i get home from vacation :)
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belayingis4play
Aug 5, 2005, 5:18 PM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2005
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I have a pair of the locos and i love them although it doesn't seem that they love me back cause they hurt like hell. Maybe i haven't broken them in yet. i haven't experienced the velcro coming loose but i may in the future. the only complaint i have with mad rock is that they don't last very long but thats why REI has a life time guarantee right, so i can get three pairs of shoes in a year
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atarinaper
Aug 15, 2005, 3:03 PM
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Registered: Apr 11, 2004
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In reply to: I have a pair of the locos and i love them although it doesn't seem that they love me back cause they hurt like hell. Maybe i haven't broken them in yet. i haven't experienced the velcro coming loose but i may in the future. the only complaint i have with mad rock is that they don't last very long but thats why REI has a life time guarantee right, so i can get three pairs of shoes in a year
lifetime guarantee?
tell me more.
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belayingis4play
Aug 15, 2005, 5:29 PM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2005
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If you buy anything at REI and you don't like it or it wears out in any way you can take it back and get store credit. The first time I did this I hadn't even bought the shoes there. I came in and said that I bought them a couple of months ago with cash. In reality I bought them at Mont Bell a year earlier. They gave me store credit so i bought another pair of mugens and when they wore out I did it again and bought a pair of locos. I know that I'm a bad person for doing this but it's either rip off REI or not climb. The choice is pretty clear.
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bigjonnyc
Aug 15, 2005, 5:54 PM
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Registered: Dec 17, 2004
Posts: 369
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La Sportiva Testarossa's are awesome for a shoe with a downturned toe and lots of sensitivity. I love mine.
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milodog13
Aug 18, 2005, 7:44 PM
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Registered: Oct 12, 2002
Posts: 53
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Red Chili voodoo's.
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milodog13
Aug 18, 2005, 7:45 PM
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Registered: Oct 12, 2002
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Red Chili Voodoo..
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lvclimbingbum
Aug 18, 2005, 8:23 PM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2005
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I own a pair of predators. They're awesome, except if you climb for more than an hour without taking brakes, they hurt. And they only work on overhanging crap. 8^)
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