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gogo
Aug 9, 2005, 11:50 PM
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 198
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Well, about six months ago I messed up my right shoulder, doing damage to the rotator cuff in a mix of overtraining and a sudden acute injury. I did PT for it for a few months, but was never able to rest it well as I worked as a routesetter. I climbed some at the beginning of the summer, but realized I wasn't letting it heal so I've been on some time off (1 month so far). I plan to continue letting it rest while I keep doing the rehab exercises, but I want to keep building up finger strength. I know pull-ups and dead hangs are out on a hangboard, as they involve placing the arm above the head. However, would working full lock-offs by starting in that position (i.e. stepping on with a chair and stepping off) be ok to keep training. I'm not sure as the arm would never shift above shoulder height, but I'd rather hear some opinions first.
Paz,
Thanks,
Mike
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maxiter
Aug 10, 2005, 1:25 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2005
Posts: 173
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Check with your physician.
What you suggest will still load the shoulders so it may indeed set back your injury. There's a chance it won't, hence the need to talk to somebody qualified who knows both the specific injury and is familiar with the exercises.
If you are fortunate, your injury only bothers you through a given range of motion or in a certain joint position. If this is the case, you are probably safe if you avoid these motions/positions. I was able to get away with doing this.
You may also wish to consider alternate finger exercises, even though they may be inferior to a hangboard. Shoulders can take a looooong time to heal -- be careful.
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jammer
Aug 10, 2005, 2:37 PM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3472
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Hangboards will continue to damage your injury, even when you don't notice it at first. By just locking off, you are still using your shoulder musseles. If it's finger strength you are concerned with, try a squeeze ball of some sort. Personally, I have used the ball instead of my hangboard for my shoulder injury and have kept my strength. Remember, one slip on the board and you'll be out for more then amonth!
Alan
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