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landgolier
Aug 11, 2005, 4:53 PM
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A buddy and I were looking to beat the heat at this crag this weekend, and we're wondering if there is any beta out there better than what's in the routes DB here. Never been, but it sounds like development in the area may be ongoing and we're wondering if any new routes or bolts have been put up.
Not sure which day we're looking at, but if anybody wants to come along this weekend, PM me. You're not going to get a shorter drive, approach, or distance to swimming without driving another 200 miles...
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landgolier
Aug 11, 2005, 9:28 PM
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Bump
Man, not even any views on this thread, there have to be some other NoVA climbers out there...
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jerrygarcia
Aug 11, 2005, 9:55 PM
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Its out of the way so not many people are aware of this hidden front royal gem. Those that would climb it are on their way to seneca/nrg/nrp and pass it by. Just go climb roadside, its in the shade all day(swimming hole across the street). "discovering" an area on your own can be fun, give it a try.
[sidenote] I have never walked the trail to the headwall, we cross the stream from fort valley rd. and march straight uphill to the wall everytime. Makes for a fun warmup.
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unabonger
Aug 12, 2005, 10:01 PM
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A friend and I bolted two new routes at Roadside this spring. Both go up the slightly overhanging, tallest shield of rock there and check in at about 5.10b/c. My bet is they still need a bit of dirt brushed off but the rock is solid and fun to climb on.
UB
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kasharp
Aug 12, 2005, 10:59 PM
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where exactly is this located?
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landgolier
Aug 13, 2005, 12:20 AM
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In reply to: A friend and I bolted two new routes at Roadside this spring. Both go up the slightly overhanging, tallest shield of rock there and check in at about 5.10b/c. My bet is they still need a bit of dirt brushed off but the rock is solid and fun to climb on. UB
Roger that, we'll bring brushes. kasharp, it's kind of hard to describe, you take the skyline drive exit on 66 but then go a little farther west. Look in the routes DB under VA > Elizabeth's Furnace, the directions there are good
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unabonger
Aug 13, 2005, 3:53 AM
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If I remember correctly they share first few bolts. Then above the lip of a good sized roof one goes right. Babak did the heavy lifting, I just acted as gear supplier and project manager.
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unabonger
Aug 17, 2005, 12:05 AM
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So how was it?
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srwings
Aug 17, 2005, 1:09 AM
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Here's the link for Roadside Crag aka Talking Headwall. Brian and I try to keep it up to date.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=5033
THW is definitely worth the trip IHO. Once the weather cools Buzzard Rocks is pretty good too.
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jerrygarcia
Aug 17, 2005, 2:29 AM
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In reply to: where exactly is this located?
Last exit of route 66 is front royal, head towards town when you exit. Take a right on rt55, drive 10 or so miles until you see a memorial garden on your left. Take a left there onto Fort Valley rd. Once you enter elizabeth furnace, roadside will be on your right just at a sharp turn. You will need a co-pilot to find the ampitheater like area covered in trees. Park past it at the 1st pull off you can come to and walk back.
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landgolier
Aug 17, 2005, 2:57 AM
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SRWings and any other regulars:
We moved some loose rocks (first one was an accident, after which the rest kind of had to go to prevent a jenga tower) off of the last couple feet at the top between Continuance and Fat Bastard. I think I got everything but the dirt, but there may be some sizeable cliff bars still hiding up there. There is also a totally loose leg-sized horizontal block under the last bolt on fat bastard. I'm sure people have seen it before, it probably needs to be trundled or lowered but I didn't want to do it since I didn't really have the right gear to lower it and with my luck I would have hucked it right into a car if I'd just cut it loose. I settled for some tape X's, but since you guys are keeping up the beta on this site you might want to mention it.
It's a great spot, people should definitely check it out. There isn't much loose rock at all, the bolting is good, and the swimming hole is the shit.
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unabonger
Aug 17, 2005, 10:21 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: If I remember correctly they share first few bolts. Then above the lip of a good sized roof one goes right. Babak did the heavy lifting, I just acted as gear supplier and project manager. And I funded his little bolting spree. Or at least part of it. I got a bill for $80. :wink:
That's right, you were the financier, I was the tool supplier.
UB
PS: I didn't realize until reading your update that the two routes from that day share the same anchor--didn't he put in a second anchor to the left?!
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srwings
Aug 17, 2005, 10:40 PM
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Babak has three routes. Two that finish at the same anchor and then another route on the same overhang but way to the left.
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jerrygarcia
Aug 18, 2005, 1:16 AM
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One of you thats been involved with the bolting needs to come up with an area topo so people can find the areas. When I climbed there were only 2 developed areas.
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rastafarout
Jan 22, 2006, 10:06 PM
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Does anybody else felt that the grades a little bit soft here? :roll:
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scrapedape
Jan 22, 2006, 11:29 PM
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I've been to Buzzard a couple of times and I went to THW for the first time yesterday, and yes, I think the grades at both might be a bit soft, at least on the easier stuff. The routes I was on at THW weren't especially technical, just pumpy. Kinda like climbing at Sportrock.
The bolts are pretty close in places, easy to z-clip, but probably necessary since the falls aren't very clean.
It's not the nicest crag, but the closest bolt-clipping to DC that I'm aware of, and the swimming hole is great in the summer.
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rastafarout
Jan 22, 2006, 11:49 PM
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Which route you were climbing?I led:
"I love big jugs"(5.8)
"Fat bastards"(5.9)
"Ne plus ultra"(5.10a)
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scrapedape
Jan 23, 2006, 12:35 AM
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I led I Love Big Jugs and Fat Bastard. TR'ed Ne Plus Ultra and Fortis.
I liked how the anchors on Fat Bastard are located halfway through the crux.
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wallmonkey35
Jan 23, 2006, 2:07 AM
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Not to rag on any body, i mean i know a lot of time and money was put into those bolts, but on most of the routes it would of been just as easy to trad lead it, or just top rope it. Also, the bolts are very close together. I think the bolts should only be placed where they are needed, like on the overhangs, and spred them out, they are too close, very easy to z clip. also, yes, the grades and a little soft.
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landgolier
Jan 23, 2006, 5:07 AM
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Buzzard grades are about a notch soft, THW grades are a little soft but it depends on how much you suck at overhangs.
The bolting at THW was kind of an amateur job, many are too close together but then sometimes they just leave you with a gear placement in the middle of what is otherwise a sport route. Also, there are some bolts that are very badly positioned such that there is a bulge that the biner gets levered over directly below the bolt. Still, props to whoever did it for putting up serviceable TR anchors at such a convenient little crag. Can't really argue with anywhere that you can drop the cooler off 50' from the rocks and then go swimming afterward.
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scrapedape
Jan 23, 2006, 4:14 PM
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A lot of the rock is pretty chossy, meaning gear placement may be a bit dicey. I like having the bolts there. I'm not so crazy about the mixed climbs - I placed a red TCU on Big Jugs to protect against a nasty ledge fall about halfway up, where it starts getting steep. Personally I'd rather they just bolt the whole route, or maybe my placing that TCU just means I'm a pussy.
Dicey bolts - definitely. I think it's the second bolt on Big Jugs where when lowering off the draw tends to get pinned under the rope, with the rope running across the sling. And on Continuance, the first bolt is placed in a big detached block.
Still, props to the guys for putting those routes up - it's nice to have a few bolted routes so close to the city.
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